Question about Repairing / Fixing 1991 Monitor 2

mike22b
mike22b Posts: 4
edited January 2011 in Vintage Speakers
Hey guys,


Yall have already helped me big time on these speakers last time (I had to replace a tweeter), so thanks!


This time, the base (low / lowest of 3 spekers) on one of the units has gone out. The tweeter and middle speaker work.

I opened it up, to find that the coil (that points forwards) had come loose from the glue and was hanging by its two wires. So, I took out that unit, and glued the coil back into its position.

It didnt work ><

So, my question is;
based on my explanation, what do I need to replace? Anyone need more information?

thanks in advance!


BTW the numbers on the units are as follows:
be0500-c 5m
bd0803B sw 83 12/20/91
Post edited by mike22b on

Comments

  • stubby
    stubby Posts: 723
    edited December 2010
    Yeah, a little more info would help.

    Exactly what model Polk do you have? I see its a Series 2 from '91. There should be more info on the rear label. I don't understand what you mean by "the lowest" speaker went out. It should be a passive radiator with no wires going to it. The only Series 2 speaker that had "stacked" active drivers was the Monitor 12 and it had 4 per cabinet, you said yours has 3, including the tweeter.

    I don't know.........

    stubby
    SRS 3.1TL
    Harman Kardon Citation 5.1
    Anthem AVM2



  • mike22b
    mike22b Posts: 4
    edited January 2011
    Yep, its the passive radiator you referred to. Here are pics of the speaker, the back label, and the passive radiator after I re-glued the coil back on (the way it looked like it should go).

    http://picasaweb.google.com/mike22beatty/Public#
  • ohskigod
    ohskigod Posts: 6,502
    edited January 2011
    I believe that is a newer monitor 5. The passive radiator (sitting on top of the speaker in the second pic) has no coil, so i am not sure what you glued back onto it. perhaps the corssover network in pic 3? (that does not get glued or wired in any way to the radiator, the radiator is not powered....it basically moves via air pressure from what you called the middle speaker (which also handles low frequencies, enhanced by the passive radiator)

    if the radiator was not moving when you played music on it, might have meant the cabinet had a leak (the cab has to be relatively airtight for the passive radiator to do its job)
    Living Room 2 Channel -
    Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.

    Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
    Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.

    Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites
  • Big Dawg
    Big Dawg Posts: 2,005
    edited January 2011
    I think you mean that the inductor came loose, but so long as the wires are still properly connected and aren't shorting anything else, shouldn't be a problem. Perhaps you were expecting more from the passive radiators than you should? If the top two drivers are working, then the passive should be fine.
  • mike22b
    mike22b Posts: 4
    edited January 2011
    Ill check for leaks tonight. I guss you just feel for air coming out when speakers are turned up?

    Also, gonna put the passive driver that doesn't work, on the working side and visa versa to see wht happens.

    It must be the leak u speak of since the top 2 drivers do indeed work.


    Thanks for all the help so far guys
  • Big Dawg
    Big Dawg Posts: 2,005
    edited January 2011
    mike22b wrote: »
    Ill check for leaks tonight. I guss you just feel for air coming out when speakers are turned up?

    Also, gonna put the passive driver that doesn't work, on the working side and visa versa to see wht happens.

    It must be the leak u speak of since the top 2 drivers do indeed work.


    Thanks for all the help so far guys

    To check for a leak, reinstall the passive, then gently push in on the passive. The driver should bulge out a little, and stay out, or slowly return to normal position, so long as you are holding the passive in. If the driver doesn't bulge out, or quickly returns to normal while holding it in, then you have a leak.