LSi15 crossover schematic

chamontchamont Posts: 22
edited June 2013 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Hey everyone.

I'm looking for an LSi15 crossover schematic. Searches turn up nothing but dead links. Does anyone have a PDF that they can send me? Thanks.

Monty
Post edited by chamont on

Comments

  • skrolskrol Posts: 2,721
    edited December 2010
    They used to be in the Vintage Forum sticky but they seem to have been removed.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i

    HT:
    Denon AVR-888, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW10, Marantz UD5005, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, TSi100; Pioneer: CT-6R, PL-530; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, Polk: RM7, Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii
  • McLokiMcLoki Posts: 5,262
    edited December 2010
    Chamont - PM me your e-mail address...

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, [email protected])
  • MC208MC208 Posts: 5
    edited January 2011
    Can I get a copy as well? Gonna do the cap/resistor upgrade next weekend and would like to have a reference to confirm everything being put back it the correct spot. I'm apparently too new to PM, but I assume you could PM me?

    -MC
  • chamontchamont Posts: 22
    edited January 2011
    Maybe I didn't do the PM correctly. But I never got a schematic...

    I put on my thinking cap and figured out my problem alone without the schematic. But I'd still like a copy if anyone out there has a copy. Anyone?
    Monty
  • napnap Moderator Posts: 1,319
    edited January 2011
    skrol wrote: »
    They used to be in the Vintage Forum sticky but they seem to have been removed.

    When I was at Polk (last month) I spoke with Stu Lumsden (VP of Engineering) and he informed me they were removed because all of the more recent speaker designs were posted as well (unintentionally). So they decided to remove them all. He didn't tell me of a plan to repost at least the more vintage ones. I hope they do at some point. Hope this helps. Cheers. :cool:
  • MC208MC208 Posts: 5
    edited January 2011
    nap, thanks for the info. Thought maybe I was just looking in the wrong place.
  • napnap Moderator Posts: 1,319
    edited January 2011
    MC208 wrote: »
    nap, thanks for the info. Thought maybe I was just looking in the wrong place.

    I was at Polk yesterday for a conference call and wanted to address this with Stu but he was not in. I guess he was out in Vegas at CES and possibly taking some comp days. I will address this issue with him and let y'all know. Cheers. :cool:
  • thefferonthefferon Posts: 2
    edited June 2013
    Greetings,

    Was anyone ever able track down schematics or other docs related to the Lsi15 speaker and/or crossover mod? If so please PM me - even if it's just contact info for Stu @ Polk!

    Thanks in advance.

    Tim
  • VR3VR3 Posts: 22,832
    edited June 2013
    - Not Tom

    Vr3Mods.com ///// Version3Audio.com

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro
  • The DoorsThe Doors Registered User Posts: 10
    edited January 3
    Same. Looking for the cross-over schematic. I may have to repair my own.
  • K_MK_M Posts: 1,282
    I created this cropped version, and enhanced the schematic to make it easier to read.ubtzemgfn88s.jpg
    Lsi15, Lsi9, LsiC,Rta11t,M5jr+,M4,SDA 3.1TL, SDA SRS 2.3TL, Rti6....Still listing stuff, a work in progress.
    B+W-Sold
    Epos-Now gone
    Infinity-Sold
    Advent-Now gone
    Yamaha A-S801
    Yamaha RX-V377
    Yamaha RX-A860
    Yamaha RX-A3060
    Harman Kardon Hk-350i
    Harman Kardon Hk-........
    Harman Kardon PM-665
    Harman Kardon HK-775
    Pioneer.......Stereo Receiver

  • The DoorsThe Doors Registered User Posts: 10
    Thanks!
  • What are you looking to improve?
  • The DoorsThe Doors Registered User Posts: 10
    Actually just to repair the highs (left speaker) that I lost by over-powering the speakers with a quality amp.
  • K_MK_M Posts: 1,282
    The Doors wrote: »
    Actually just to repair the highs (left speaker) that I lost by over-powering the speakers with a quality amp.

    almost for sure the 2 ohm resistor, commonly burns out.
    Replace with a 10 watt of same.
    Lsi15, Lsi9, LsiC,Rta11t,M5jr+,M4,SDA 3.1TL, SDA SRS 2.3TL, Rti6....Still listing stuff, a work in progress.
    B+W-Sold
    Epos-Now gone
    Infinity-Sold
    Advent-Now gone
    Yamaha A-S801
    Yamaha RX-V377
    Yamaha RX-A860
    Yamaha RX-A3060
    Harman Kardon Hk-350i
    Harman Kardon Hk-........
    Harman Kardon PM-665
    Harman Kardon HK-775
    Pioneer.......Stereo Receiver

  • mlistens03mlistens03 Posts: 2,495
    The Doors wrote: »
    Actually just to repair the highs (left speaker) that I lost by over-powering the speakers with a quality amp.

    What kind of amp? It may be of good quality, but just not have the power for these speakers...
    Micah
    If you're reading this, I've put up devices for a week; maybe more. I'll talk you guys later!
    I've always thought the goal of high-end audio was not to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Turn that darn music down' but to have your neighbors bang on the wall and say, 'Tell your friends to go home and you can practice later this week'.
  • The DoorsThe Doors Registered User Posts: 10
    K_M wrote: »
    The Doors wrote: »
    Actually just to repair the highs (left speaker) that I lost by over-powering the speakers with a quality amp.

    almost for sure the 2 ohm resistor, commonly burns out.
    Replace with a 10 watt of same.

    Thanks for your response, I'll keep that in mind. I'm going to pull the cross-over network probably Friday and have a look see.
  • The DoorsThe Doors Registered User Posts: 10
    mlistens03 wrote: »
    The Doors wrote: »
    Actually just to repair the highs (left speaker) that I lost by over-powering the speakers with a quality amp.

    What kind of amp? It may be of good quality, but just not have the power for these speakers...

    An Adcom GFA-555 II.
  • The DoorsThe Doors Registered User Posts: 10
    I replaced the cross-over network in the right speaker 3 years ago when parts where available (yes from playing music loud but not obnoxious loud). The right held up for now but now the left gave out. What I am seeing here is that the cross-over network in the LSi-15's are weak when it comes to power handling. I was NOT driving them beyond craziness. They are just weak cross-overs as far as power handling and need modifying. Other than that, the Bass, Midrange, imaging and over-all sound is great. I'm not sorry I purchased them.
  • VR3VR3 Posts: 22,832
    The LSI series was a solid, safe series for Polk. They sounded great, over built enclosures, solid drivers, conservative design. They did make it to where the resistors will blow well before the tweeters. I truly believe this is because at the time of the LSI release, the ring radiator being used was a big deal. If I am not mistaken the original ring resistor was the same style and design used in far more expensive speakers. So perhaps for Polk warranty purposes it was cheaper to replace crossovers than drivers.

    I actually recommend using the old resistor as a mounting block for the new resistor if just repairing. This atleast keeps it off the circuit board.
    - Not Tom

    Vr3Mods.com ///// Version3Audio.com

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro
  • K_MK_M Posts: 1,282
    edited February 7
    VR3 wrote: »
    The LSI series was a solid, safe series for Polk. They sounded great, over built enclosures, solid drivers, conservative design. They did make it to where the resistors will blow well before the tweeters. I truly believe this is because at the time of the LSI release, the ring radiator being used was a big deal. If I am not mistaken the original ring resistor was the same style and design used in far more expensive speakers. So perhaps for Polk warranty purposes it was cheaper to replace crossovers than drivers.

    I actually recommend using the old resistor as a mounting block for the new resistor if just repairing. This atleast keeps it off the circuit board.

    We did something a bit unusual. Removed the original resistor, and piggybacked (2) 5-watt 4 ohm resistors in parallel, to make it 2 ohms, so the board holes easily line up.

    After some listening, then changed one to a 3 some ohm to make it overall 1.75 ohms overall with the parallel 4 ohm for a tad more treble.
    Lsi15, Lsi9, LsiC,Rta11t,M5jr+,M4,SDA 3.1TL, SDA SRS 2.3TL, Rti6....Still listing stuff, a work in progress.
    B+W-Sold
    Epos-Now gone
    Infinity-Sold
    Advent-Now gone
    Yamaha A-S801
    Yamaha RX-V377
    Yamaha RX-A860
    Yamaha RX-A3060
    Harman Kardon Hk-350i
    Harman Kardon Hk-........
    Harman Kardon PM-665
    Harman Kardon HK-775
    Pioneer.......Stereo Receiver

  • The DoorsThe Doors Registered User Posts: 10
    VR3 wrote: »
    I actually recommend using the old resistor as a mounting block for the new resistor if just repairing. This atleast keeps it off the circuit board.

    Why would keeping the resistor off the circuit board be beneficial?

  • EndersShadowEndersShadow Posts: 16,412
    The Doors wrote: »
    VR3 wrote: »
    I actually recommend using the old resistor as a mounting block for the new resistor if just repairing. This atleast keeps it off the circuit board.

    Why would keeping the resistor off the circuit board be beneficial?

    My guess, heat dissipation
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • pitdogg2pitdogg2 Posts: 12,622
    The Doors wrote: »
    VR3 wrote: »
    I actually recommend using the old resistor as a mounting block for the new resistor if just repairing. This atleast keeps it off the circuit board.

    Why would keeping the resistor off the circuit board be beneficial?
    The Doors wrote: »
    VR3 wrote: »
    I actually recommend using the old resistor as a mounting block for the new resistor if just repairing. This atleast keeps it off the circuit board.

    Why would keeping the resistor off the circuit board be beneficial?

    My guess, heat dissipation

    Yes keep all surfaces off the board a bit allows better circulation.
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