IDEAL AMP | 2 12" Polk/Momo Subs

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Systems
Systems Posts: 14,873
edited July 2003 in Car Audio & Electronics
i have 2-12" polk/momo mm124's 500watts each plus 2-polk ex368 6"x8" which are 190watts an for the receiver i got a kenwood kdc-519 which thats 50x4watts.. im lookin for a good quality amp that can power all of this. i would rather have 1 amp thats around 2000watts or so cuz its always good to have little more then u actually need. but i want quality an i know alpine an jl are good. so if u guys got an ideal amp that would help me out that would be cool. thnx + for the mm124's shouldnt an small box be ok an give optimal bass then ported box would?
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Post edited by Unknown User on

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  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited July 2003
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    put them in a 0.88 cubic foot (per sub) SEALED box with separate chambers. period... do not use a ported box, do not try to go smaller / bigger with the box. just 0.88 per sub.

    ideal amp -- if u have 500 bucks to throw on ebay - go get a USamps 1000a ... that'll do 1000 - 1100 x 1 at 2 ohms bridged... and its a damn good amp. i dunno what the retail is.

    if u want class d -- then u can go with anything from an mtx 81000d or RF bd1000.1 or up from there... alpine is a little sluggish on power, but very clean... and the JL 1000/1 does 973 - 990 watts depending on when it was built... so you're not squeezing any extra watts out of those.

    personally as long as the vehicles electrical system will hold up, i'm beginning to think more and more away from class D's and more and more toward large AB's or even two AB's to run two subs.

    they suck more current / less efficiency, btu they do outperform most of the brother D amps from teh same manufacturer. cody's getting some RF 550S's to run his mm124's ... not a bad choice at all, and i think he got them for like 225 each.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited July 2003
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    thnx man, i was lookin at there webpage an saw they had a 2000w amp thats 1000 Watts x 2 into 1 Ohms would that be good? or should i buy 2 1000w amps an run them mono. also i was wonderin what ohms are if the more the better if someone could help me out an explain it that would help me out alot. thnx
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  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited July 2003
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    dont worry about ohms -- just match them to the amp -- like if you've got a 4 ohm sub -- a single 4 ohm sub -- get an amp that does the power u need into 4 ohms....

    cuz if u get an amp that's like 1000 x 1 at 2 ohms... it'll be like 500 x 1 at 4 ohms.... so that's not good...

    just match them up.

    u dont need 2000 watts for two momo's... but if u wanted two 1000 watt subs then boom there u go.


    but if u did two momo's they're single 4 ohm coil so u can get a USamps 1000a that'll do like 1000 - 1100 x 1 at 2 ohms bridged... so thats ideal. :)
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited July 2003
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    thnx man, you've helped me out alot. i always loved alot of bass an just started gettin into speakers an actually learning about them just few months ago cuz i got a job that actually i make some phat loot. an i always hada thing for them momo's :D haha i dont know what it is, i just think they're the best speakers out there even tho it all depends on what kinda system you want but quality wise id choose polk over any speaker. also besides an alarm what would be a good way of protectin your system from gettin stolen.. ie subs/amp :P cuz alarms now adays dont do **** unless my cars parked by my house an im sleepin i hear it ya. but in public places only takes like a min to gank a system ;) just wonderin if theres anything out there that makes it very dificult to takem. an powerbydodge do you have an email i could get ahold of you at? u seem to know your **** very well an when i get that amp i might have a few questions an would rather have someone that knows there **** rather then some **** at bestbuy or circutcity sayin some bs an end up blowin my ****. an agian thnx a bunch =)
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  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited July 2003
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    the best way to not get your stuff stolen is to try and conceal it
    for instance, i have an extended cab full size gmc truck
    i have 2 momos, both in a box under the back seat
    you damn near have to take the back seat out to get the box out, and even then, the box easily weighs 75 lbs...it stretches across the whole back seat and its made of 3/4" MDF...plus momo subs arent too light
    as for amps, you do have to take the back seat out
    to get to them...i took the back seat out...screwed them in low to where the back seat has to be out to get to the screws
    as for a box...if its an ordinary box you dont mind messing with a little...ie my box is ok...if you buy the momos in the premade fiberglass box i wouldnt(cosmetic wise)
    but glue(or even screw) a small joint to the box and screw it to the floor
    if possible...you can take the front seats out and screw the amps under the seats where you have to take the front seats out to take them out
    youll still be able to have access to components you need to change(gain...frequency...crossovers...etc) but you wont be able to unscrew it(or itll take you a long **** time to)
    so theres a few ideas for subs/amps
    for your head unit theres not a whole lot to be done
    i can steal the radio out of my truck in like 10seconds
    rip off the dash, push down the tabs, take off the harness and your gone
    i can take the radio out of my truck doing it right without breaking anything in under a minute
    some people put screws in the sides...just be very careful what they screw into
    the only deterrent i have for my head unit is the removable face plate
    used to...only the "top of the line" models had that option...but now even the $99 specials have them
    so no one will ever know that my radio retails at $900..it could be one of those $99 ones
    and i dont take my face plate with me
    (please do not break into my truck and steal my stuff...lol)
    i put it under the seat
    ppl put them in their glove boxes, top of sun visors, overhead consoles, arm rests, compartments in doors, under floor mats, under the dash(rest it on top of the steering column or just on top of some wiring...something like that), possibilites are endless
    but be smart, if you live in a bad neighborhood, go somewhere where theres an above average chance of it getting stolen, take it with you, or if you leave your car in one place for more than a day...put the faceplate in your house
    i live in the country...so i dont really have to be as careful, but if i stay in the city(one time i had to stay with my brother)ill take it in the house with me
    put it on top of my keys so i wont forget it when i leave
    also...my windows are tinted to the legal limit
    that helps too
    make sure that little blinking light for your alarm is clearly visible...put those little "PROTECTED BY..." stickers on the window...
    and dont advertise what you have in your car
    what i mean is dont put POLK/MOMO stickers all over your car
    i dont have a single sticker in my truck like that
    i have a "pardon my bass" sticker on the back bumper...otherwise no stickers like that
    i mean you can...but thats like saying..."hey thieves...pick me pick me!!I have momo's!"
    but just be smart about it
    those are some of my suggestions...im sure theres more ways ppl will share with you
    -Cody
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited July 2003
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    "pardon my bass" --- i like that one... :)

    ya the main thing is just bolting **** down -- i mean even if u do a great job of hiding it (under seats, etc), its not worth **** if it can be pulled out in 2 seconds.... time is what thieves hate... and if they know its gonna take them half an hour to rip off your car... they're not gonna bother (or maybe they'll steal the whole car).

    my sub boxes weigh about 60 pounds each or more.... actually more like 75 with the rear speakers built into them. and they're so obtuse that it takes two people who know just how to move them to get them out -- that is after you remove four 5" long fine threaded machine bolts. and considering the subs are bottom mounted --- well u get the point.

    i keep envying the back seat box you've got cody -- every day i wish a little more i had not pulled mine out... i think i'm starting to outgrow the "excessive" phase and now reality that i literally gutted what was at the time basically a new truck is starting to bother me... lol.

    fyi ---
    my email is poweredbydodge@juno.com
    aol im-er is poweredbydodgev8
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited July 2003
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    thnx alot for your guy's ideas.. gots me thinkin bout lotta stuff. but im kinda in a pickle.. see i got a 93 mercury villager that was handed down to me from my mom so kinda stuck withit till i save up fer a new car which wont start untill i finish puttin in the system an alarm. but anyways its like the onlything i could really do is bolt down the box/amp but still just the way the van is take a crowbar to the back hatch an boom face fulla momo's :P few swift pulls on the box an boom either box breaks or they just get pulled out of the box. an the amp i could probably fit under like the middle seat or something but im not sure havnt measured anyhthing yet.. but anyways i feel kinda stupid just askin repeated questions :P but yea hitme back PEACEE!! ;D
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  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited July 2003
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    dude -- carriage bolts -- if u've never seen / heard of them -- learn now.

    for "maximum" sub botl in sercurity, you can assemble your whole box MINUS the back panel... then, mount the subs but instead of putting them in with wood screws, put them in with the same size machine screws that have lock nuts on the back... nobody's unscrewing them then... and then put your back panel on the box -- just be sure the back panel goes on with screws so that u can unscrew it, pull hard, remove the silicone, and get it off if you need to get into the box for any reason (sub dies or wire comes loose or whatever).

    then... get some decent grade angle iron and make either two large, or 4 small "L- brackets" to bolt the box itself to the floor of hte car... the brackets shud be attached to the boxbefore u put the back onto the box... use carriage bolts because they are flat on top - u cant put a screw driver to them, they wont turn, with nuts on the inside of the box. then put the back on the box.. mount it in the car, and drill 4 holes down through the floor... again use carriage bolts (pretty heavy ones) and crawl under teh car and put lock washers and nuts on them all... then the only way that box is coming outa the car is with a sledge hammer (thus it would be in pieces) or if the guy jacks the car up, crawls under, has hsi buddy hold the top of the carriage bolt still, and removes the nuts with a good ratchet set... use an "odd" size nut -- not something common like 1/2 inch or 7/8 -- get somethin funny that has a funny bit to it so that unless the guy has a full Snap-On tool set with him, he's not getting it out.

    you can do the same thing with the amp - you can mount it to the back panel of the box with carriage bolts, that way once you put the back onto the box, it's nto goin anywhere unless the box is.

    ahh the wonders of carriage bolts...

    far as teh alarm -- crimestopper 2011RS -- 80 bucks on ebay -- 10 bucks in relays to get it going in your car... so for 3 hours of your time, and 90 bucks, you get what a shop would charge you 300 bucks for. its a good little unit for the price. has remote start, keyless, starter kill, dome light supervision, yada yada...
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited July 2003
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    also, make your box out of the special stealth stainless steel that the airforce to make its airplanes with, you can pick it up at your local hardware store
    buy some bolts that are something like 2 1/2 feet long made of the same "hack saw proof" metal as specified above
    that way if they do get the nut off itll take them 30 minutes to get one nut off
    screw 24 of those babies into your box through the floor
    that way if you go to bed at 12, the thief goes to your vehicle, starts unscrewing...thatll give you 12 hours to wake up and find out whats going on
    and when you tighten down the nuts...get a few extensions to where the ratchet comes out below the vehicle...get about a 15ft long piece of metal pipe(pvc doesnt usually work...), put it on the ratchet..then tighten...more leverage...tighter it is
    also....to take care of the crow bar to glass problem...get some like 6" thick plexiglass like they use in hardcore db drag competitions and use that...you wont be able to roll up your windows anymore unless youre a champion weight lifter...but hey...better safe then sorry right?
    also...take the panels off your van...and bolt stainless steel sheets to the metal...thatll help too
    if i have anymore ridicously stupid suggestions...ill let you know
    :)
    instead of all that...carriage bolts will do too...
    :)
    -Cody
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited July 2003
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    ... SOMEBODY's been drinkin too much tonight...lol.

    "aircraft hacksaw proof metal" -- i need me sum-o-dat-stuff.

    :D
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge