Need Serious Help!! (fast)

ChevyMan4x4
ChevyMan4x4 Posts: 52
edited July 2003 in Car Audio & Electronics
Ok a friend asked me to install a kenwood cd player into her ford mustang older model... 1993 or 94 if I had to take a shot at it anyway that's not real important or I hope not.... I got the pin out security and she said she did not want to buy a wiring harness I said no prob "I'll just have to cut the plugs off your factory HU" that was cool with her and that my humble friends is where the **** got neck high... two plug one has 5 fat wires... 2 hot 1 ground other two dead no 12.4v charge the second plug is what turn my noodle it has 8 very thin wire 32 gauge if I had to take a guess and a bare wire right in the bunch of 8... wth is that one for... So I said "no problem" I'll just pull out one of the door speakers to see what color's it was after doing so I discoved none of the colors matched........... does anyone know what that bare ware is for?? Or why the speaker wires don't match throughout the system... keep in mind the system is all factory first time the hu has been tampered with so no outside interfernce was done... some help this damn FORD!!!! that's why I hate em so thanks............
Sir Daniel X. Boom - the GNX slayer
Post edited by ChevyMan4x4 on
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  • C-Man
    C-Man Posts: 307
    edited July 2003
    http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/

    You can request a diagram there.
    "The Big C"
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  • ChevyMan4x4
    ChevyMan4x4 Posts: 52
    edited July 2003
    I looked there could you do me a favor and post for the wiring on a 90 mustang for the radio?? please that whould help me alot I set up a account but it say I have yet to be approved I need that wiring ASAP Thanks C man
    Sir Daniel X. Boom - the GNX slayer
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  • C-Man
    C-Man Posts: 307
    edited July 2003
    I tried for like 15 minutes, but thier server is either down or something is going on with my computer but nontheless it won't let me in no matter how hard I try. Hopefully you'll be approved in the morning and you can get in there.
    "The Big C"
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  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited July 2003
    you learned the hard way -- just like us all...

    another thing you'll learn -- NEVER cut more than one wire at a time -- for example, if u cut power and ground at the same time, the metal blade of your cutting pliars will short out the circuit and blow a fuse -- if that were a head unit connected to the body computer (like GM Theftlock II) you'd have big problems costing you more than 20 head units...

    here is your wirign information for a 1990 - 1991 ford mustang.

    the wires behind the dash to not match the wires at hte speakers... use the color coding below (wires behind the dash) to match them up to your new head unit's wiring.

    note -- "Red/purple" means a RED wire with a PURPLE stripe... like the first one -- constant 12 volts -- its a GREEN wire with a YELLOW stripe.

    Constant 12V+ ............ Green/Yellow
    Switched 12V+ ............ Yellow/Black
    Ground ......................... Chassis (means you have to drill a little hole somewhere behind the dash that is METAL and ground to that like you'd ground an amp if you cant find the black ground wire)
    Illumination ..................Blue/Red (leave disconnected - tape it off)

    Antenna Trigger ...........Orange/Blue (hook to the antenna [blue/white] wire of your headunit, or if u only have a remote line and no antenna line on the head, hook it to the blue remote line)

    Front Speakers 5 1/4" Doors
    Left Front (+) .................Orange/Green
    Left Front (-) .................Light Blue/White
    Right Front (+) .................White/Green
    Right Front (-) .................Green/Orange

    Rear Speakers 5" x 7" Side Panels
    Left Rear (+) .................Pink/Green
    Left Rear (-) .................Pink/Blue
    Right Rear (+) .................Pink/Blue
    Right Rear (-) .................Green/Orange

    good luck
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
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  • MTXMAN
    MTXMAN Posts: 682
    edited July 2003
    Just be greatfull that it wasn't a common ground system... When i was working at Circuit City in the install bays i had an 84 mustang with the common ground system that when we went to hook it up got no sound... get this for it to work the gound had to be disconected??? makes no sense to me but the customer drove off with sound... This is why i hate ford cars :mad:
    Hemi: (HEM -e) adj. Mopar in type, V8, hot tempered, native to the United States, carnivorous, eats primarily Mustangs, Camaros, and Corvettes. Also enjoys smoking a good import now and then to relax.
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  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,820
    edited July 2003
    Originally posted by MTXMAN
    Just be greatfull that it wasn't a common ground system... When i was working at Circuit City in the install bays i had an 84 mustang with the common ground system that when we went to hook it up got no sound... get this for it to work the gound had to be disconected??? makes no sense to me but the customer drove off with sound... This is why i hate ford cars :mad:

    Yeah! That makes sense! Hate an entire brand due to a bad experience with a 20 year old car! :rolleyes:
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 0
    edited July 2003
    That system is probably amplified. The 8 pin square, metal plug is the preout signal to the amplifier. The unshielded wire is the chassis ground connection between the HU and the amp. It prevents ground loops. If I remember correctly, the amp is under the rear deck. To test the speakers, you would have to turn on the ignition and power up the amp remote lead. The antenna and amp remotes should be seperate. If you want to bypass the amp (suggested) you would have to run speaker wires either from the HU to the amp in the rear or to the speaker locations themselves. One way or the other, if it's amped, it's going to be a pain in the a**!
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  • MTXMAN
    MTXMAN Posts: 682
    edited July 2003
    ford factory car audio is as evil as jensen and sony combined...
    Hemi: (HEM -e) adj. Mopar in type, V8, hot tempered, native to the United States, carnivorous, eats primarily Mustangs, Camaros, and Corvettes. Also enjoys smoking a good import now and then to relax.
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  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited July 2003
    gm speakers sucks **** too...
    if you dont like fords you should really have more reasons than a wiring problem
    you would absolutely despise any jeep vehicles
    for instance, i hate fords, but i have a lot of reasons why...lol
    but gm isnt sent from heaven either...and i would still take john's lightning...
    -Cody
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  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited July 2003
    precisely my sentiments -- there is no reason to hate a brand over a 20 some odd year old vehicle with a common ground system.

    keep in mind, most pre- 1987 vehicles had common grounds... my 88 pickup had a common ground setup -- **** it came with one goddamn speaker in the dash center position and an AM RADIO!!!!!!!!!!! wtf is that!?!?!!

    ---- then came 1200 watts of polk audio driven bliss....

    anywho -- man i feel your pain with that common ground ****-- i wonder how it works though.

    like.. u said they disc. the ground line and it was good... surprising... i'm not doubting u -- hell i have no idea.... but reasoning would say that if you hooked all the positives to the speaker +'s... and assuming speaker -'s were hooked to ground, then you could... i think ... hook the head unit speaker negative's to the ground terminal -- following a very convoluted idea of "pooling / draw" you'd think that would work best. duno tho - i'd like to dick around with it and try it.

    far as if daniel x boom the gnx slayer over there has an amp in the rear... question... could he cut and splice?

    like ok -- if you've got an amp in back... then that means u have 4 signal cables going to that amp for amplification (maybe 2 only tho .. dunno)... but 4 pair of "preouts" -- now maybe its only 22 gauge or 24 gauge wire, but hey -- easy is better than good sometimes... could he not look at the output of hte amp and then chop those wires.. continuity test for which went to which speaker in the car... and then hack off the input wires to the amp and continuity test for which went to which wire on the head... and then just splice them together under the rear deck?

    just an idea dude -- might wanna think about it if u end up havin to run new wire ... might work... might not -- but if that **** is at least 22 gauge you SHOULD be able to do it. figure couple hours of "thinking" work or couple hours of pulling your damn car apart - which is easier is your choice-- i'd rather do the thinking versus working tho.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
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