knukonceptz Wire

KaosTsoc

I was looking on here, and did not really find anything that answered my question about the above. I plan on using them to get some 0AWG ultra flex wire for my big three, but I want to know befor I buy. If anyone on here has had any experiance with them. What did you like or dislike (the wire only), is the Copper Clad Aluminum mix good, or bad?



Thanks.

eloplayspolo

Ton of people on here have used them, and haven't heard a anyone say a bad thing about them.

KaosTsoc

Nice. How about youself? Any experiance with them?


Thanks.

Vital

The only wire i used (well, haven't used it yet lol still in my room waiting to be installed) is 10g Karma SS speaker wire.
Very fast shipping.
Wire itself seems to be true 10g with reasonabl amount of rubber around it.
One thing i didn't really like is that on top of both wires being wrapped in rubber (which is understandable) there's also a think rubber around BOTH of those wires. Hope u know what im talking about lol. I just dont see a reason for rubber to be that thick, looks more like 4G. But again, wire itself is true 10g.

KaosTsoc

Vital wrote: »

The only wire i used (well, haven't used it yet lol still in my room waiting to be installed) is 10g Karma SS speaker wire.
Very fast shipping.
Wire itself seems to be true 10g with reasonabl amount of rubber around it.
One thing i didn't really like is that on top of both wires being wrapped in rubber (which is understandable) there's also a think rubber around BOTH of those wires. Hope u know what im talking about lol. I just dont see a reason for rubber to be that thick, looks more like 4G. But again, wire itself is true 10g.

Sorry, but I dont understand, are you talking about the ends on both sides where it is cut from a larger spool???? What do you think about the contrustion of the wire, I mean does it seem to feel like a good durable product, or does it look like some cheep crap wire that would fall apart in about 3-6 months?


Thanks.

eprater1

i think that you would be better off using a solid copper wire not a copper clad aluminum wire.

KaosTsoc

eprater1 wrote: »

i think that you would be better off using a solid copper wire not a copper clad aluminum wire.

Ok.... Why is that?




Thanks.

eprater1

lower resistance pure coper has about half the resistance of a cca wire. see below link for more detailed analysis between the two.

http://www.timesfiber.com/pdfs/Technical%20Notes/1017-tn.pdf

exalted512

eprater1 wrote: »

i think that you would be better off using a solid copper wire not a copper clad aluminum wire.

Thats great if you can find it/afford it. CCA isn't as conductive as regular copper, but knu also exceeds AWG standards and have one of the highest strand counts and just plain visibly more wire than most of your major manufacturers. All the wire in my truck is CCA...most competitors compete with CCA. Don't let that shy you away.

Having used wire from all the major manufacturers, knukonceptz makes better products for less money.

Only reason why there's RF wire in my truck is because Knu doesn't make 2/0...and I could get the RF stuff cheaper than Knu.
-Cody

Vital

KaosTsoc wrote: »

Sorry, but I dont understand, are you talking about the ends on both sides where it is cut from a larger spool???? What do you think about the contrustion of the wire, I mean does it seem to feel like a good durable product, or does it look like some cheep crap wire that would fall apart in about 3-6 months?


Thanks.

NOw that i re-read my own post and see all spelling mistakes i can see why it was hard to understand sorry, was typing from my phone there.

Here's what i mean.

Look at this pic (to help you visualize what i'm talking about)

wire itself is wrapped in red and black rubber.
Then all that is wrapped in white rubber.
Well, Knu's SS Karma wire's "white" rubber is very thick. A lot thicker then i think is needed.
Really not big of a thing but i'm used to RF and Kicker's hyperflex and these 2 are considered to be one of the bests there are and DON'T have that "white" rubber at all which helps a lot when you need to run multiple runs in a tight spots (like let's say thru the door's garment with bunch of stock wires in it already).

KaosTsoc

eprater1: I see what you are saying. It has less resistance, and less conductive. Interesting.......Hmmmmm..... Something to think about. Thanks for that.


exalted512: I see got it. Ok so, if I dont want to use their CCA line I could go with their kolossus line. Granted it would be more expensive from what I can see, but if I wanted to go the cheeper route the CCA would fine?



Vital: Ah I see now. I have some moster wire that is kind of like that, except it is a clear jacket. And you right it is a pain to peal that outer layer, then have to peal the actual wire. I liked it cause to me it seems like it add more insulation to wire, which in turn would resist that "wine or feed back" noise. So, yeah I see what you are saying. For however Im going with their 0 AWG wire so, I can do my big 3 on the truck. Oh and by the way the visuals are best for me. Im more of the person who understands better when there are pic.


Thanks.

KaosTsoc

eprater1: I see what you are saying. It has less resistance, and less conductive. Interesting.......Hmmmmm..... Something to think about. Thanks for that.


exalted512: I see got it. Ok so, if I dont want to use their CCA line I could go with their kolossus line. Granted it would be more expensive from what I can see, but if I wanted to go the cheeper route the CCA would fine?



Vital: Ah I see now. I have some moster wire that is kind of like that, except it is a clear jacket. And you right it is a pain to peal that outer layer, then have to peal the actual wire. I liked it cause to me it seems like it add more insulation to wire, which in turn would resist that "wine or feed back" noise. So, yeah I see what you are saying. For however Im going with their 0 AWG wire so, I can do my big 3 on the truck. Oh and by the way the visuals are best for me. Im more of the person who understands better when there are pic.


Thanks.

exalted512

KaosTsoc wrote: »

exalted512: I see got it. Ok so, if I dont want to use their CCA line I could go with their kolossus line. Granted it would be more expensive from what I can see, but if I wanted to go the cheeper route the CCA would fine?

For the big 3, you'll be more than fine with CCA wire...unless your battery isn't under the hood.

Unless you are exceeding the amount CCA wire can handle, or you want to be able to use a smaller wire (as in, say you have 125A of current on a 25' run, you would want 1/0 if you were using CCA, but 4awg would be fine if you were using copper wire), then you will be perfectly fine with CCA and you'll save money.
-Cody

KaosTsoc

Ok. Thanks. Yeah the runs wont even be close to 20' runs. More like 5' run from alt (which the stock alt only produces about 70 amps. I do plan on getting a H/O one that does like 130-200 amps) So, what is the limit no the wire? Do you know off hand? Also this wire is only being used for the big 3, and that's it. Oh what do you mean by:

"unless your battery isn't under the hood."



Thanks.

KaosTsoc

eprater1 wrote: »

lower resistance pure coper has about half the resistance of a cca wire. see below link for more detailed analysis between the two.

http://www.timesfiber.com/pdfs/Technical%20Notes/1017-tn.pdf

I dont understand some thing in the link you provided. What is SRL performance?


Thanks.

arun1963

I think what Cody was trying to say earlier is that, "wire is wire". It's unlikely that you would hear a difference from wire to wire and across the metals used. Here's why.

Different metals have varying conductivity, thats right. Better conductivity would mean a lesser voltage drop/loss over a given length of run. Next, how would you hear/percieve this difference? Logically a lesser voltage drop at you VC would mean higher decibles. There are formulas to calculate this voltage drop over a given run and then convert that into decibles.

I stopped worrying about cables when I realsied that the drop over a 10 foot run between gold and aluminium would only result in 0.03 decibles. No one can hear that difference. Of course by then I had already spent $150 on 'transparent, neutral, hi energy and low loss', Pear speaker cables. :redface:

Correct gauge, reputed brand and reasonable cost, thats all you need.

Installer4life

Vital wrote: »

NOw that i re-read my own post and see all spelling mistakes i can see why it was hard to understand sorry, was typing from my phone there.

Here's what i mean.

Look at this pic (to help you visualize what i'm talking about)

wire itself is wrapped in red and black rubber.
Then all that is wrapped in white rubber.
Well, Knu's SS Karma wire's "white" rubber is very thick. A lot thicker then i think is needed.
Really not big of a thing but i'm used to RF and Kicker's hyperflex and these 2 are considered to be one of the bests there are and DON'T have that "white" rubber at all which helps a lot when you need to run multiple runs in a tight spots (like let's say thru the door's garment with bunch of stock wires in it already).

Thats a picture of two conductor wire. I don't think or at least I have never seen two conductor 1/0 wire before...

KaosTsoc

I dont think I have ever seen one like that big either.

Arun: I have seen and read good things about them, and they have been the best price so far. As I was looking around I seen that the field is about half, and half give or take.


Thanks.

exalted512

KaosTsoc wrote: »

Ok. Thanks. Yeah the runs wont even be close to 20' runs. More like 5' run from alt (which the stock alt only produces about 70 amps. I do plan on getting a H/O one that does like 130-200 amps) So, what is the limit no the wire? Do you know off hand? Also this wire is only being used for the big 3, and that's it. Oh what do you mean by:

"unless your battery isn't under the hood."

Thanks.

I'd do 1/0 under the hood if you plan on getting an after-market alternator. Still probably overkill, but I'm assuming you're going to have a somewhat taxing audio system if you plan on getting a new alternator, so I'd just do 1/0 for everything...power wire to the amps, big 3, etc.

Some cars don't have the batteries under the hood. Theyre in the trunk...or in the floorboard in the middle of the car, under the back seat, etc.

Installer4life wrote: »

Thats a picture of two conductor wire. I don't think or at least I have never seen two conductor 1/0 wire before...

Vital was referring to speaker wire...and I'd have to agree. The 12awg speaker wire I have from them is about as thick as 1/0. I won't be getting that stuff again.
-Cody

KaosTsoc

Ah. Got it. I dont know why I asked really. I had a Saturn Ion for a while, and the battery was in the trunk. So, yeah I feel kind of sheepish after asking the question, and then reading your answer. As for the 12 awg wire that looks like it 1/0 awg, that is well pretty damn big. I dont think I would go that route either if it is that big. That just makes it hard to twist, and bend. However the monster wire I have that is similar to the pic, was actually really easy to work with, and easy to twist, and bend.

So, Im planing on doing the big three before I get the H/O alt. This is fine correct? Also the power wire that goes back to my current set up is 4 awg, because it is not that big. Now when I get the 2 SR 12's, the MM6501 for the front, (not sure if I will do rears yet, jury still out on that one), and the two PDX amps to power all of this. Then using 4 awg all around would be good, or do I do 0 awg. Im also thinking that since the run from the battery up front (if I dont decide to do two batteries), will be a longer run that under hood, I should stick with copper on that.......????????????


Thanks.

arun1963

KaosTsoc wrote: »

Arun: I have seen and read good things about them, and they have been the best price so far. As I was looking around I seen that the field is about half, and half give or take.


Thanks.

I think you'll be ok. Although I think we may be talking about different wires......I was talking about speaker cables and I think you are talking about power cables for your big 3. Either ways the logic remains unchanged :biggrin:.

KaosTsoc

exalted512 wrote: »

I'd do 1/0 under the hood if you plan on getting an after-market alternator. Still probably overkill, but I'm assuming you're going to have a somewhat taxing audio system if you plan on getting a new alternator.

Yes. Once it is all said and done. Im looking at like something around 1600-2000 watt system, so yeah I will need to get a new alt that can handle the load. The current alt is only at like 70 amps. It is going to be a long project, but the out come will be sooo worth it. Good to know that Knukonceptz is a good company, and has good products.



Thanks.