Sound Deading?????

KaosTsoc

Ok. So, I have a quick question. I have pretty much finished all the dynamate on the roof, Back wall, and sides, and both front, and back doors. On the doors I did the inside outter part of the door like in the pic.

http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/forums/uploads/monthly_03_2008/post-1215-1206964926.jpg


then did outside panel where the speaker sits. I covered all the access holes as well. So, Im thinking that Im going to put another layer on the inside outter part of the door either with 1/8" poly form, or 1/8" bear hair type of insulation from like Second Skin or something. So, my question is if I do this Im going to need to cut out the access holes in order for me to do this, and want to know if I do this is there a need to cover them back up or can I just leave them open. And if by leaving them open will the door at that point act like an incolsure for the 6 1/2.

Sorry if not I did not explain very well.

Thanks.

EndersShadow

If you did both the inside of the outer panel and then covered the entire inner inside panel with dynamat it makes no sense to open it back up to add more. You are at the point of diminishing returns. If anything do the actual door panel itself in some dynapad type fabric and call it a day. You wont gain much if anything by adding more dynamat to the inside outer panel at this point.

But thats just my .02. I am sure DSkip and some others will comment.

I just did the inner panel of my Jetta (due to how its built accessing the inner panel would have been a ****) and while the outer panel might vibrate a bit, you cant hear it inside the car and barely at all when outside.

I think your fine.

I would recommend 2 layers or more in the trunk if your adding a sub and also trying to do the floors from the firewall back. But that could be kinda costly and I dont know what your budget/objectives are.

KaosTsoc

Forgot to say, Im doing a tacoma extened cab truck. Already got the subs too. At any rate, the only reason I was putting in the extra layer if you will is to help insulate the truck a little more. Im not going to use dynamat per say for the the poly form/bear hair due to price more than anything. I did ask DSKIP (ment with him this weekend), and he was like I have no idea, which is all good.

My main question is if I do this, and cut the access holes will the door at that point act like an inclosure, or not hold any bearing what so ever? I guess that is my question really..... Thanks for the thoughts, and Im thinking you are right, in that im at that point where I would just be buring money, and getting nothing in return as far a music goes, but might in regards to insulating the truck better from heat, and cold.

also the floor is the next thing to get done, but man to cover that will take some time, and money.

Thanks.

EndersShadow

KaosTsoc wrote: »

My main question is if I do this, and cut the access holes will the door at that point act like an inclosure, or not hold any bearing what so ever? I guess that is my question really..... Thanks for the thoughts, and Im thinking you are right, in that im at that point where I would just be buring money, and getting nothing in return as far a music goes, but might in regards to insulating the truck better from heat, and cold.

In regards to if the door will become like a speaker enclosure, I cant tell you one way or the other on that one....

KaosTsoc wrote: »

also the floor is the next thing to get done, but man to cover that will take some time, and money.

Yeah, I found this site to have the best deal for Dynamat.

MacLeod

As a general rule, you cant have enough Dynamat. If you've got the time and money, lay it on.

As for the door, it wont act like an enclosure cause its not sealed as long as the window can roll down. Even if you did seal it up, it would be such a large enclosure that it would be the same as if the speaker was in free air.

greyford1979

My hands are still sore from Saturday when I dynomated my car, from the little roller lol.

Vital

Here's what i did to my holes. Basically a completely removable when needed AND deadened.









Holes were threaded, not just drilled.










Aluminum pieces were deadened from BOTH sides which gives pretty good seal once you put screws in.

KaosTsoc

greyford1979: I completely understand. My hands, and arms look like I tried to fight the door, more than install something. And the little roller, LOL what a joke sometimes, but it does work 95% of the time.


Mac: Sweet thanks. I did not think it would act as inclosure, but was not sure. I do plan to put at least one more layer on the roof, and doors. The floor will be done in two to three layers in the same day, because I dont feel like pulling out the carpet, and seats again to put another layer, so best to do it all at the same time. I dont mind going back to the doors, cause those are easier to get to. Still undecided on weather or not to put in the polyfoam, or the bear hair in the doors. Any thoughts on this??..

Dskip: I hear you sir, I hear you. However Im going to take the time to spend the money on it ALL. LOL I know its crazy sounding, and Im going to end up putting alot of time, and money into this, but I figure do right, and good. So, if I ever decide to sell the truck, the next person who gets it will be amazed at how quite, and little work they will have to put in to do this. However I dont think Im going to sell the truck anytime soon, so....

Vital: WOW.... Now that is amazing. I never thought about that. I will take this into consideratoin, but the only thing I dont like about it. Is all the new screws that have be installed, and taken out if I needed to get in there. However that is an idea that I never considered before thanks for that. How long did it take to do that anyway???


Thanks.

Vital

What not to like about screws? LOL
As i mentioned holes are not drilled but threaded so u get secure connection and you can safely take them out and back in as many times as you need. Just make sure that your threads are same as threads on screws u use. Well, not screws, those are bolts really.
Holes will not cause any structural damage to the panel itself, no rattles since BOTH sides of aluminum pieces are covered in deadener AND threaded holes really help avoiding rattles as well.
It does take a while to do it right with all that small bs involved with cutting out carboard, then alumimun, then drilling and threading.... but end result justifyes the means imo.

KaosTsoc

Vital wrote: »

What not to like about screws? LOL
As i mentioned holes are not drilled but threaded so u get secure connection and you can safely take them out and back in as many times as you need. Just make sure that your threads are same as threads on screws u use. Well, not screws, those are bolts really.
Holes will not cause any structural damage to the panel itself, no rattles since BOTH sides of aluminum pieces are covered in deadener AND threaded holes really help avoiding rattles as well.
It does take a while to do it right with all that small bs involved with cutting out carboard, then alumimun, then drilling and threading.... but end result justifyes the means imo.

Its not that I dont like screws, bolts. It is that there are so many, and would be time consuming remove, and put back in. However you are right in that the end result does justify the means, and I agree. Also looks like it took some time to do. I like screws, and bolts LOL really. I plan on replacing my front stock plastic bolt things, and using nuts, bolts and washer. Which will be better than the plastic crap, and would secure the speakers better.


Thanks.

Vital

The only reason I used that many bolts is because my door panel has a lot of curves as far as mounting goes. Its not as flat as it looks on pics so I had to use thin aluminum to be able to bend it in lots of different small spots. If your panel is mostly flat u can safely get away with less bolts and strongetaluminum.

KaosTsoc

Vital wrote: »

The only reason I used that many bolts is because my door panel has a lot of curves as far as mounting goes. Its not as flat as it looks on pics so I had to use thin aluminum to be able to bend it in lots of different small spots. If your panel is mostly flat u can safely get away with less bolts and strongetaluminum.

That makes sense, and yes it looks very flat in the pics. Oh well pic's say a thousand words or lack there of lol.. Yeah for me it is kind of mixed really. The back doors have one big square hole at the bottom, and is pretty flush, so I would not have a problem there, and would be able to use a thicker piece. However the front is where I get those curves, and what not, so for those I would be in the same boat as you with haveing to use thinner pieces, and more bolts etc.... It is a good thought, and i will mull it over to see if this would be good for me.