Polk Series 2 Speakers- Worth Fixing?

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Comments

  • hewhorocks
    hewhorocks Posts: 13
    edited December 2010
    audiobilly wrote: »

    It would be worth while to measure the tweeters to insure they are bad before you spent "any" money, I would think. If both tweets are indeed bad, with no circuit protection this seems more likely now.

    How do I measure the tweeters?
  • audiobilly
    audiobilly Posts: 351
    edited December 2010
    hewhorocks wrote: »
    How do I measure the tweeters?

    You use a Ohm meter to measure the resistance of the tweeter. The tweter should measure around 6 ohms (the one I have measures 5.6 ohms). A reading of say 10 ohms is not good, and any reading over that is bad.

    The tweeter will have two terminals, one will be the plus terminal and one will be the negative terminal (this only applies when the tweeter is in circuit so that this driver will be in polarity with all of the other drivers in the same cabinet). You will want to measure the driver (tweeter) out of circuit, remove the driver from the wires attached to it, and take note as to what wires are connected to what terminal, so you can put it or the new one back in the same way as it came out. The terminals may be different size so they will only go on one way, which makes life a bit easier.

    You take one lead of the ohm meter (red) and touch or attach it to one of the terminals of the tweeter, and take the other lead of the ohm meter (black) and touch or attach it to the other terminal of the tweeter. The ohm meter will read the resistance of the coil in the driver (tweeter). In this case the meter should read about 6 ohms or so. If the meter reads, OL or open load, or some very high resistance, say in the 100s' or 1000s' of ohms, check your connections from the test leads to the terminals of the driver to insure a good contact, and if the reading is still very high, then the driver is considered bad/open. In a overall outlook, drivers should measure from 4 ohms to 8 or even 10 ohms, depending on the manufactures' design specifications.

    Now, you have to have a ohm meter and have a basic understanding of how to use it. Radio Shack has some good "value for the money" meters.
    http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4214667
    This is a VOM (Volt-Ohm-Meter), it will measure Volts (AC and DC volts), Resistance (Ohms) and current (amps). This is also known as a Multimeter, a meter that does multiple functions, not just a dedicated meter as a Ohm meter or a Volt meter etc, etc. Of course you can spend as much money as you want on a good VOM ($300 + ), your choice, but the Radio Shack will do the job.
    http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&expIds=25657,25907,27642,27788,27819,27868,27946,28004&sugexp=ldymls&xhr=t&q=fluke+multimeter&cp=6&safe=off&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=s&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=1118521929293955874&ei=Z2T-TL_pLcG88gbaybWNBw&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=7&sqi=2&ved=0CE4Q8wIwBg#

    Here are some good links to "start" your reading about Multimeters and Ohm meters.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multimeter
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohmmeter

    You can use a ohmmeter to measure all dynamic drivers (moving coil driver).
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loudspeaker

    Further investigation on your part will only increase your understanding of VOM meters and how to use them.

    Hope I did not ramble too much, Good luck!:biggrin:
  • hewhorocks
    hewhorocks Posts: 13
    edited December 2010
    That is awesome information. I will go buy an Ohm METER and perform these tests with great enthusiasm. Than I will post the resluts
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,378
    edited December 2010
    Just a note of caution. When you take the measurement, don't keep the meter connected to the tweeter any longer than necessary (a few seconds should do). The ohm meter applies a DC voltage which can stress the voice coil.
    Stan
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited December 2010
    Do these speakers have bi wired terminals, is it possible the woofers are just hooked up?

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • audiobilly
    audiobilly Posts: 351
    edited December 2010
    It warms my hart to see the support for someone that has the necessary information to diagnose a problem with the proper tools in which to allow them to make an educated decision for them self.
  • DON73
    DON73 Posts: 516
    edited December 2010
    I think your speakers are certainly worth repairing. I never buy any audio gear thinking I'll resell it and make money. The pleasure I get from listening and making something better is enough for me:smile: Although several years ago I gave away 2 Dual 1229Qs and one 1219. A few weeks back a 1229 sold for $380:mad::smile:
    TO ERR IS HUMAN. TO FORGIVE IS CANINE.
  • hewhorocks
    hewhorocks Posts: 13
    edited December 2010
    OK so I took a trip to Radio Shack and am now the owner of the Multi Meter.

    I check a whole bunch of batteries I had laying around, so this thing is already AOK in my book.

    I removed the Tweets and I tested them and the needle didnt even budge. I did follow the instructions in the manual for zeroing out the resistance on the meter first. There was no signal to the meter in any of the Ohm settings


    testtweets001.jpg

    testtweets004.jpg

    testtweets002.jpg


    So now what?
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited December 2010
    Your Tweeters are DEAD.

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • audio_alan
    audio_alan Posts: 770
    edited December 2010
    disneyjoe7 wrote: »
    Your Tweeters are DEAD.

    Good diagnosis from the multi-meter readings.... :biggrin:

    WOW, mint condition speakers. From that one picture, it looks like they just came off the assembly line. Definitely worth fixing up! Congrats on the find...
  • audiobilly
    audiobilly Posts: 351
    edited December 2010
    Yep'r, looks like you have now verified the condition of the voice coil in the tweets. They measure open, and are ka-put.

    Good for you for taking on this task and learning about this end of the hobby!
  • hewhorocks
    hewhorocks Posts: 13
    edited December 2010
    OK thanks for the guidance. I will, for now, chalk the deal up to furthering my knowledge of this world...

    Now do I replace the tweeters?

    Or do extract the 4 other speakers and sell them to recoup?
  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,102
    edited December 2010
  • hewhorocks
    hewhorocks Posts: 13
    edited December 2010
    Schurkey wrote: »
    Nevermind.


    ??? huh?
  • audiobilly
    audiobilly Posts: 351
    edited December 2010
    That is something you will have to decide. They sure look nice. You only have 2 drivers and the other ones are passive radiators (the ones on the bottom of the box).

    Your choice brother. New tweets are right at $100 for two from Polk Customer Service. Might be able to get some used,,,

    FWIW, I have one that I will let go, maybe someone has two or one, then your investment is less.

    What do YOU want to do with these?
    hewhorocks wrote: »
    Now do I replace the tweeters?

    Or do extract the 4 other speakers and sell them to recoup?
  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,102
    edited December 2010
    hewhorocks wrote: »
    ??? huh?
    Had a brain ****, discovered my error. Then could not figure out how to completely delete my own post. Edited instead.
  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited December 2010
    I would replace them. Honestly, they are very nice little speakers and you would be hard pressed to find new ones for $150.00 that sound as good.

    I didn't include the meter as once you head down the path of audio nirvana a meter can help point the way.
  • Rivrrat
    Rivrrat Posts: 2,101
    edited December 2010
    A volt/ohm meter is a pretty handy little tool to have around the house.

    Like I said earlier, I'd start shopping used. IF you're not in a hurry, they do come up once in a while.
    My equipment sig felt inadequate and deleted itself.
  • hewhorocks
    hewhorocks Posts: 13
    edited December 2010
    I'm in no hurry. I recently bought a pair of NHT speakers that are set up at this listening station, they sound awesome. Happy with them... and I have a really nice pair of Missions as backup ...

    I collect vinyl and its not unusual to have opportunity to buy speakers and gear when I purchase private collections

    I picked these up because I had a pair a while back and LOVED them. Thought they sounded very rich and well balanced in all freq... I sold them and kind of regretted it right away. So when I saw these and they were in such great looking condition.... what else was there to do?

    At this point they have entered the project realm. I will replace the tweets.

    What is the opinion of the new replacement tweets vs hunting down a use pair of the ones we see here?