Memphis Belle 5ch Monster $400.00
eprater1
Posts: 175
I have upfor sale my beloved 5ch memphis belle mch-1300. i really hate to see it go but with my new hru.4 on the way i really have no need for this amp just to run a sub. everything is in fine working order with absolutely no known issues other than the rear x-over switch is partially broken but can still be switched with a small flat head screw driver and works fine. this thing is a beast and can run a system active all day long and still have over 1100 rms watts on tap for the subs. attached is a link with all the specs.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CDEQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sonicelectronix.com%2Fitem_4033_Memphis%2BBelle%2B16-MCH1300.html&ei=f8L5TJ3iEISKlweaqLnhBw&usg=AFQjCNFZyd5b7A5tIjwegTNIN7Kw8LeL9g
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CDEQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sonicelectronix.com%2Fitem_4033_Memphis%2BBelle%2B16-MCH1300.html&ei=f8L5TJ3iEISKlweaqLnhBw&usg=AFQjCNFZyd5b7A5tIjwegTNIN7Kw8LeL9g
Post edited by eprater1 on
Comments
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350.00 bump
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Memphis is really underrated IMO. Love their amps and subs. Before I went with my DLS setup I was very pleased with my memphis amps. This is a nice amp for the price.
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Nobody needs a nice 5ch amp???
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330.00 i know you guys can afford this and need it.
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If it had more power than my MTX I mighta bit, but I got my eyes on a Sundown 100.4D (100 x 4) for my db6501 components and then a 1200.1 for my Treo sub.....
It is however a great price for those wondering. The shop I am getting my Sundown gear from also sells Memphis and its nowhere near that cheap from them lol"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
Still for sale? Let me know about the broken crossover. And BTW, you realize that you're asking the same price then the brand new 5 channel Polk Audio 5 channel amp goes for on ebay, and that is a tough decision indeed..---
Soon hope to be a Polk convert, it's up to you guys! -
i say broken, more like the black plastic piece that covers up the metal piece is missing it is still completely functional. yes i know the price. compare the power output of the polk and the memphis. memphis can lay down over 1100 watts to the subs at 1ohm all day long polk only goes to 600. this is a 1200.00 amp new. granted mine is not new but good luck finding one cheaper. 300 plus shipping is the lowest i will take. it is also at a local shop and they will move it for me if none here is interested. tax season is upon us and it will get gone one way or another for the 300.00
let me know if your interested.
your comparing apples to oranges. zr1 vette and zo6 vette....both are vetts but in two different worlds of performace. -
I am interested bro, for sure! I bought the Polk because that is enough for me and I got it for the same price as you're asking, but I will get yours too, but I want a guarantee that it is in the condition that you say it is in. We can make the deal midweek, I just have to wait for a money transfer from ING to my bank account, unless you take credit card in which case we can do it pronto.
ZR1 is a monster, ZO6 is just plastic on wheels with lots of power. When driving the ZR1, the lack of comfort doesn't even enter your mind, lol, believe me.. I'm saddened that you're calling my new Polk the ZO6, that's a big downgrade from the ZR1, lol.
Oh, and while I've been out of the audio craze for a while, I was a huge audiophile and installer for years when I had my Trans Am. So I know all about quality and the crap about numbers on the box and I know that old and used means nothing for a good name amp, my friend is still kicking with a mid 90s black grill Fosgate amp I sold him a few years ago, that amp is a legend and pumps his whole system. It is rated at 400W RMS, 4 channels total, yet it actually pumps well over 700W RMS, he's got the rears bridged into 2 12" subs that are rated for 500W RMS each (Kickers), and they pound, and the front channels power Boston Acoustics 6.5" components, each side getting at least 150W due to their lower resistance (less then 3ohm, which brings out everything from channel which puts out double at 2ohm, as of course you know, but it's hard to find good speakers that are not 4ohm, which means usually you're only using half the amps power when running one speaker per channel (of course running two in parallel will make it 2ohm which is awesome too, but less control).---
Soon hope to be a Polk convert, it's up to you guys! -
sorry for the delayed response i travel alot with work and interaction with this site can be spuradic at best.
didnt mean to knock your polk so much by calling it a zo6, personally i would love to have a zo6 and think that the polk amp is a nice piece of equipment, its just not a belle ya know.
at least i didnt call it a rice rocket ...lol
i too want to make this as transparent a transaction as possible. the amp has been at a local shop for the last 3 weeks or so (they are helping me move it). when i get back into town i will take some pics and post them up for your approval. assuming you approve i will then double check the unit for functionality (hook it up to my truck and post a short video) assuming you are pleased with the results shoot me the payment and i will ship the amp out shortly there after. where are you located, depending on your location i might even be able to deliver it, again i travel constantly. -
it is clear to see on the right crossover that the plastic cover on the metal switch is gone, the thing that you cant see is the metal switch that is still inplace and perfectly in tact. there is nothing functionaly wrong with the crossover. the one thing that im a little upset about is that the right side cover is missing on the amp. shop says they arent sure what happened to it but they will keep looking for it.
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well????? like what you see?
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Sorry I haven't been around for a while, I'm checking out the pics now, I will get back to you tonight or tomorrow (Monday), assuming it's still for sale. So, is there a way to get you the money via credit card? Paypal perhaps? I would also like to take half the risk if possible and pay half before and half on COD, not because I don't trust you but because if anything happens on the way here in transit, outside of your control, I agree that we can take half the damage each until the insurance takes care of it (you never know what can happen in transit). I'm sure we can come to some sort of an understanding but like I said, let me take a quick look at those pics.---
Soon hope to be a Polk convert, it's up to you guys! -
Man, that thing is a beast, it's bigger then the Polk right? I don't mean power, I mean size.
The reason I don't need it for myself and prefer the Polk is because the Polk has the same/more power on the four channels, and half on the sub channel, and half the power for the sub is exactly what I need/want for pure SQ to go with the perfect amount of power to the fronts.
That being said, I know people here who want bass to drown out everything, and while the Polk can do that anyway, the Memphis must outright blow your drums.---
Soon hope to be a Polk convert, it's up to you guys! -
i understand about the timing we both seem to live busy lives. i will be more than happy to put tracking and insurance on the amp (acutally wounldnt ship with out it ) but i must have all the money up front. paypal is perfectly suitable by me but again i will need the 300 for the amp plus shipping (guessing about 15 bucks, it will be bubble packaged well!!) up font.
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oh i can throw in some o awg wiring (10ft) to help sweeten the deal or maybe some speaker wire (will have to check and see what ive got) i have laying around but that is all the room i have to budge on this one.
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Man, that thing is a beast, it's bigger then the Polk right? I don't mean power, I mean size.
The reason I don't need it for myself and prefer the Polk is because the Polk has the same/more power on the four channels, and half on the sub channel, and half the power for the sub is exactly what I need/want for pure SQ to go with the perfect amount of power to the fronts.
That being said, I know people here who want bass to drown out everything, and while the Polk can do that anyway, the Memphis must outright blow your drums.
by the rating yes it is making a few more watts but im willing to bet if we had birth sheets to compare the memphis would be out performing the polk...that being said the polk is an extremly nice piece and more than enough for 90% of people out there. honestly unless your wanting/needing the extra sub power i dont see any reason in swaping over but still buy it! :biggrin:
i had the sub channel wired down to 1ohm on a 2010 memphis mojo 12" in my bronco in a rediculus box and it was down right nasty how low it played. i used to listen to alot of heavy meatal and it never left me craving more bass. also paired with the polk mm6501's i had in the doors the sq was pretty nice as well for what it was. -
oh and yeah its decent in size but you should see it compared to my hru.4 the hru is just as long and more than twice as wide and about 1/2" taller and weighs in at around 30lbs. the independant power supplies might have somehting to do with that nothing like having 1000watts and .005 thd on hand to run your components right ??? lolololol
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Tell you what, we'll make the deal early this week, maybe tomorrow or tuesday, I will pay you $315US if you throw in the 0awg power wire, speaker wire is your option, but I'd appreciate it cuz I gave everything away when I sold my car, so have nothing, but only if its good speaker wire (the power is obviously great, I've never run anything under 4 gauge).
You know what, I may just keep yours if it looks decent and not too beat up. I know inside its awesome, but if it looks awesome, I will sell the Polk, someone already offered me more then I payed, I guess people here never heard of ebay and they checked the retail price and when I offered it at 60% unopened they wanted to buy it right there but I balked cuz I wasn't sure how I was going to like yours.
Listen, you crazy dude, you ran your whole 1200W at 1ohm to 1 sub? what kind of enclosure? Do you have a link to the sub? If I get yours, I will probably go with 2x12", but again, you are one who hasn't answered two of my questions and I'd love your opinion.
1. For the same money, should I run one 12" expensive top of the line sub that is rated at or just above the amp RMS rating, or 2x12" subs which cost half each but the same together, still quality (obviously) but needless to say not quite on that level. I ask because if the only reason the 1 sub is so expensive is because it can take that kind of power, then I'd rather have 2x12" since I'll get a bit more SPL when needed but also should get equal or better SQ, I just don't know. I had a similar dilemma with my last setup and chose 4x10" over 2x12", and I loved my 10s, but never did compare them to the alternative so don't know if I made the right choice (probably not, since the 10s were the budget fosgates, and i could have gotten 2 12" mid series). But my 50.1 Power Fosgate pumped those like crazy, I have no idea how that was possible, but they just deafened everyone, the only thing is they had little range as far as outside the car. When I pumped it, inside the air pressure would hurt you, but people inside the coffee shop where I was parked wouldnt even hear anything, whereas when my friend came with his 15" subs, inside they sounded loud but couldn't really tell how much louder then mine, but the coffee shop would shake and rattle like a heavy earthquake when he came by, and this is no joke, people actually thought it was an earthquake, everything was shaking and making so much noise inside the coffee shop that it felt like armageddon. Of course that was 4x15" and 5000W RMS, lol, in a van, but who is comparing.
My little 50.1 50watt amp impressed everyone tho, at 1ohm it was able to move those 4 10s like crazy, and each 10 was rated at 150W RMS, and the amp couldn't have been pushing more then 300W RMS, maybe a bit extra (rated at 200W @1ohm, but fosgate under-rated their amps, especially in the 90s, and at 12V at that), so they were getting less then 40%.
So I know that if I get your amp I'll be rocking.
Sorry, didn't mean to drag this out.
Basically, you can comment on what I wrote, but really, I need your opinion on the original question about 1 or 2 subs, for same money, the only thing I'm set on is 12" and sealed enclosure (actually, that is in the air too cuz I always though that sealed means better SQ and accuracy but a bit less SPL, which is acceptable to me, but I could be wrong, although I've heard some vented enclosures that just rattled everything at the same frequency no matter what song was playing, and I hated that).
On top of that, any specific make of subs you like? If you have a recommendation for 1 or 2 12s, total price about $500, max $750, for either one, or two together, with or without enclosure, that would be excellent.
2. Since I'm running only the 6.5 components in the front, are you also of the opinion that I should run the drivers one the rear channels and the tweeters on the front channels and forget about the included crossover and how they are intended to be run? I have no experience with that either, but the MM6501s are very attractive to me because of their 2.7ohm resistance, which means the polk or memphis will be pushing almoost its maximum power into them from each channel, and that is very close to their actual power rating, great stuff. The only other components I found under 4 ohm are 3ohm bostons that are so expensive it makes me cry, and 2ohm orions which are even more expensive, but would be my favorite to get if I could afford them.
I know it's a long post, but I would truly appreciate a reply and some feedback to pretty much everything I wrote, if you can take the time to do that, I guarantee you the sale of your amp by midweek.---
Soon hope to be a Polk convert, it's up to you guys! -
i will always pick quality over quantity any day of the week. look at it this way also. the more power you put on a speaker the more control you have over it, granted you dont want to over do it do much but it is generally not wattage that blows a speaker but rather a distorted signal. the box i had my mojo in was rock solid and you will need to make sure the one you build for your new high end sub be the same way to take full advantage of it. 3/4" mdf is the min but 1" is prefered, remember your gonna have 1100w on a single sub. also make sure to use 2.5" drywall screws and predirll every one or its gonna split the mdf. i no longer have the box but from memory it was about 17" tall 32" wide and 15" deep with the slot having a total "L" shape length of about 18". the sub played best in the 20-60hz region. i loved having the power/box/sub that could play lower than i could hear very well. it was odd sometimes b/c the sound wouldnt seem to be loud but you could feel the pressure in your throat/chest. songs by Tool seem to have alot of this very low end. i would buy another mojo in a heartbeat and regreat haveing to get rid of mine but there was simply no room for it in my new truck. the jl w7 is also a nice piece of hardware. while both of these are sometimes seen as spl speaker they are both also very good at sq when properly set up. one problem with most vented enclosures that you generally see is that some kid is just trying to be as loud and poss and stuck some **** subs with a crap amp in a cheap 1/2" mdf ported box that was never purpose built for his brand of subs anyways, then on top of that is getting a poor signal from a cheap cd player hooked up to an ipod with even crappier sampled music.
as far as how to wire up the front stage that will depend on what type of crosovers you have. if you are not great at setting up xovers or dont have a good quality external one i would bridge up the front and rear channels for your right and left componets while using their supplied xover. example rear channes left pos and right neg (rear channes is now mono and bridged) with the amp crossover set to full, now take the pos and neg and run to the supplied xover with your componets. this will give you a full range of signal that the supplied xover will then filter while also sending as much reasonable power as poss. then do the same with the front 2 channes bridge and send to the supplied cross. then you will use your fader to control the balance. fader is lost but since you are only using a front stage it is a moot point.
got to looking at what wire i have and i can still offer you the 10ft of 0awg no problem but the belle only uses up to a 4awg. i have about 10ft of red 4 agw and 33" of blue 4awg that you could use better to hook up the belle. might need a bit more length on the positive but if u use an inline fuse with a few extra feet coming up to the fuse it should be plenty. also have about 14ft of remote wire i can throw in.
i have a set of kicker 4channel rca's that will work well for your setup but they will be an extra 20.00 if you are intrested. i will post pics shortly for your approval. where do you live? -
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oh if you do go the mojo route make sure to get the solid black one not the older orange/blue/red one those are more spl and suck at sq compared to the new ones. oh and i got where you live now....read ur sig DOH!
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you still have this amp?
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i do but a sale is pending, if it falls through are you intereseted?
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i do but a sale is pending, if it falls through are you intereseted?
yes, I have the 16 mad1000 and the 16 mad 3005 i think it is..its the 75x4 -
yes i am interested.sorry last post was kinda confusing
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do u have the bass remote too?
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no, sorry. never came with it
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eprater, I sent you a private msg.---
Soon hope to be a Polk convert, it's up to you guys! -
eprater, I sent you a private msg.
PM Responded to last week, let me know if your still interested. if not i will be persuing other options. thanks and have a good one. -
pm me the lowest you will take.
