Current Setup - Bi Amped or Bi Wired?

nacam
nacam Posts: 56
edited November 2010 in Vintage Speakers
Hi all;

My current setup is a pair of SDA SRS 1.2TL's (RDO Upgraded). I am running these with a Rotel RB-1090. I currenty have 2 sets of cables running each speaker from the dual outputs on each channel of my Rotel to the highs and lows of my 1.2's. I have the jumpers removed, inerconnect cable is connected.

Some Questions:
1. Am I Bi-amping or Bi-wiring with this setup?
2. What effect does this setup have on the impeadance load on the amp? Is it dropping it to 4 ohms or raising it to 16 by removing the jumpers?
3. What would be the optimal way to set this up? What would happen if I simply put the jumpers back on and left it the way it is?

The reason is my amp seems to be topping out (the occasional driver pop), at levels I would expect this amp to be way more capable.

Could someone shed some light on this subject? I have read the threads about bi-amping/wiring and I get more confused the deeper I read into it.

TIA!
Nacam
2 Channel Basement Setup:
PC With M-Audio Audiophile 24/96 Card
Rotel RC-1070
Rotel RB-1090
Polk Audio SDA SRS 1.2TL (1991) w/RD0-198 Tweeters.
Post edited by nacam on

Comments

  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,102
    edited November 2010
    nacam wrote: »
    Hi all;

    My current setup is a pair of SDA SRS 1.2TL's (RDO Upgraded). I am running these with a Rotel RB-1090. I currenty have 2 sets of cables running each speaker from the dual outputs on each channel of my Rotel to the highs and lows of my 1.2's. I have the jumpers removed, inerconnect cable is connected.

    Some Questions:
    1. Am I Bi-amping or Bi-wiring with this setup?
    If it's a two-channel amp as you describe it, you're bi-wiring. You'd have to have two amplifier channels per speaker to bi-amp.
    nacam wrote: »
    2. What effect does this setup have on the impeadance load on the amp? Is it dropping it to 4 ohms or raising it to 16 by removing the jumpers?
    NO effect whatsoever. None. Nada. Zip.
    nacam wrote: »
    3. What would be the optimal way to set this up? What would happen if I simply put the jumpers back on and left it the way it is?
    It's already electrically connected at the amp. You won't hear the faintest difference by re-connecting the jumpers.

    SOME folks think that bi-wiring makes some wonderful audible difference. I think they're deluded. the only difference is the halving of speaker wire resistance, and the increase in capacitance and inductance from having twice as much copper hanging off the back of the amplifier. What's important is what YOU think you hear.
    nacam wrote: »
    The reason is my amp seems to be topping out (the occasional driver pop), at levels I would expect this amp to be way more capable.
    How old is the amp? Any chance the power supply capacitors are old and worn-out? Maybe the amp is no longer capable of the power delivery it once had. OR, maybe you're just plain over-driving it.

    Maybe you've got a partially-failed speaker driver or two.

    Maybe it's time to re-cap the crossovers. Well, OK, it's SURELY time to re-cap the crossovers...but that may have nothing to do with the problems you're having.
  • Audioquest
    Audioquest Posts: 104
    edited November 2010
    I'd agree on the either overdriving or a bad driver bottoming out a voicecoil. That Rotel is a hefty amp and should not have any trouble driving these speakers properly.
    HT: Polk SDA SRS 2.3 main fronts, Klipsch RC-25 center channel, Polk RTi-150 rears, M&K V1B sub, Denon AVR-5800, Samsung 52" LCD, Sony BDP-S550

    2 Channel: Carver ALS Platinum, Audio Research LS-2B preamp, Counterpoint SA-100 amplifier, Integra CD player, Denon SL7D tt, TC750 phono pre, Nikko tuner