Spike question

jonicont

Thinking of putting spikes on my 2BTL's. Do those little plastic feet unscrew?. If so, what size thread are they. Thanx

inspiredsports

jonicont wrote: »

Thinking of putting spikes on my 2BTL's. Do those little plastic feet unscrew?. If so, what size thread are they. Thanx

Mine seem to be teflon or white plastic, but integrated onto a nail and tacked directly into the fiberboard base, and they would need to be gently pried off. Replacing with threaded is on my winter project list.

I would then need the spikes that come with the tee-nut and to drill out the base and install the tee-nut.

Polk did change features constantly so it may be possible yours unscrew, but my thoughts are that 2B's never had the threaded type.

This is the small version, but I'm linking it so you can see the screw-in nut portion that is more secure than just a standard tee-nut . . .

http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-DSS3-BC-Black-Chrome-Spike/dp/B003BFPDS0/ref=pd_sbs_misc_5

My favorites are these, but they don't come with the tee nuts . . .

http://www.amazon.com/Sound-Isolation-Cones-Floor-Spikes/dp/B001FAAE28/ref=sr_1_22?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1290272796&sr=1-22

inspiredsports

I just realized the direct link to the SuperCellAudio website (no afilliatiion) is actually cheaper than their amazon.com price if you happen to like these . . . http://www.supercellaudio.com/Floor%20Spikes.htm

jonicont

Thank you

thsmith

Myesound.com points n pads

inspiredsports

OK, granted the SuperCellAudio Brass spikes (available in brass or black coated brass) are 1/4" versus 5/16", but a set of 4 is rated at 170 pounds. The SuperCellAudio spikes cost $4.50 each delivered ($36 for 8) and come with:

- - - Threaded Brass Spike
- - - Matching Round Brass Knurled Nut
- - - Matching Round Brass Floor Pad

The Myesound product is just a spike for $10, no nuts offered, floor pads are $4, shipping is $10 so 8 spikes and pads (no jam nuts) would be $122.

I do not get the recommendation as the OP has SDA 2B's that weigh half of what the $36 solution will carry. For SDA SRS's, the 5/16" version may be the right suggestion, but I'll bet the $36 product would even support the extra 15 pounds there.

F1nut

To the OP, the 2B's never came with threaded inserts. Remove the plastic nail in feet, drill some holes and hammer in some 1/4-20 T-nuts.

All SDA's that came with screw in feet/spikes are using the 1/4-20 thread pattern, so I'm not sure were 5/16 came from.

Why Mye Sound? Because they are turned from solid brass billet, none of that double threaded shaft stuff. Jam nuts? Never needed those.

inspiredsports

F1nut wrote: »

To the OP, the 2B's never came with threaded inserts. Remove the plastic nail in feet, drill some holes and hammer in some 1/4-20 T-nuts.

All SDA's that came with screw in feet/spikes are using the 1/4-20 thread pattern, so I'm not sure were 5/16 came from.

Why Mye Sound? Because they are turned from solid brass billet, none of that double threaded shaft stuff. Jam nuts? Never needed those.

Where can I get T-Nuts that are turned from a solid brass billet?

I've found stainless steel, but I think they still impart a bit of "harshness" just like those damn cheap 1/3 of the price double threaded jobbies :biggrin:


P.S.: I've never used the jam nuts either, I'm just impressed you get them essentially for "free" in the price. I just ordered a second set (SuperCellAudio) a few minutes ago as I'm about to install them and Larry's rings on my 2B's. The unused nuts make cool paper weights and you can knock people out with a well aimed toss.

F1nut

inspiredsports wrote: »

Where can I get T-Nuts that are turned from a solid brass billet?

LOL......maybe we can talk Larry into making some.

inspiredsports

Well, I guess we'll have to put up with the compromise :rolleyes:


On a serious note, the tensile strength of brass is 200,000 Pa (pascal units) whereas even basic carbon steel is 640,000 Pa. The threads, and especially the junction of the threaded part to the cone is extremely weaker on the solid brass version.

If you were ever to drag a heavy speaker (not that anyone would, I'm sure everyone invites over 4 friends to lift and move their SRS's), an extended cone could snap right off where I'll bet my life the steel studded version would not.

F1nut

Like any good man, I put mine all the way in.

Vette C6.r

F1nut wrote: »

Like any good man, I put mine all the way in.

TMI - F1

inspiredsports

F1nut wrote: »

Like any good man, I put mine all the way in.

I've been lucky like that too :biggrin:, but back to speakers, I've seen floors that are so far off it's not possible. I'll stand by my recommendation of the cheaper "composite" spikes.

dorokusai

Plus they use a lock nut. I've owned a dozen sets of spikes from Mye and not a single angry, objectified or mislead 1/4-20 thread.

Schurkey

And to show how tightfisted I am:

Six hardware store T-nuts in 1/4-20.

Six Grade 8 bolts, 1/4-20 X 1.25

Six 1/4-20 nuts

Cut the heads off the bolts, sharpen the end to a point on a bench grinder. Install three T nuts, bolts, and jam nuts per speaker by drilling holes of suitable size to press the T nuts into; and with enough depth to allow the bolt to thread in nicely. I chose two in front, one in back. Adjust height of spikes to achieve verticalness before locking the jam nut.

If I have two dollars in hardware cost and two hours in labor (including shopping and drive time!) I'd be surprised; but of course all this was done ~fifteen years ago.