Amp Ventilation

Earthy
Earthy Posts: 488
edited November 2010 in 2 Channel Audio
I am trying to decide the best way to arrange my equipment with a 50" DLP tv on top. My new amp is super deep, so I am building a stand that will be two components wide and about 20" tall. I want two shelves high, and need 7" for my center channel.
My manual says give 6" clearance over the amp. There should be at least 8" of clear air on one side and open on the front back and other side. How much space can I realistically get away with. I was thinking about 2.5" would fit the aesthetic aspect, but want to make sure it can breath properly.
Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL
Parasound Halo A21
Parasound Halo P3

Home theater
Polk LSiM 707, 706c, 703, 705
Polk Blackstone TL3 for height
SVS PB12-ISD Sub
Denon AVR-X6400h
Parasound Halo A51
LG OLED65B7A
Sony UBPX800
Logitech Harmony Elite
PC LSiM 703
Spare LSIM 702 and 706c

Home Theater #2
Polk Audio LS70, CS350LS, LSF/X, S4
Onkyo TX-NR808



Post edited by Earthy on

Comments

  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    edited November 2010
    Earthy wrote: »
    I am trying to decide the best way to arrange my equipment with a 50" DLP tv on top. My new amp is super deep, so I am building a stand that will be two components wide and about 20" tall. I want two shelves high, and need 7" for my center channel.
    My manual says give 6" clearance over the amp. There should be at least 8" of clear air on one side and open on the front back and other side. How much space can I realistically get away with. I was thinking about 2.5" would fit the aesthetic aspect, but want to make sure it can breath properly.

    Since your building it yourself you could add some cooling fans to the rear from these guys to pull the hot air out and you should be fine:

    http://www.coolerguys.com/ho.html
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • TG Meat
    TG Meat Posts: 159
    edited November 2010
    Yeah, I use Parsound's zbreeze on my B&K amp. It keeps it pretty cool. My B&K in contained in an enclosed shelf on the sides, open back, behind a closed glass door. The zBreeze is triggered to turn on when the amp powers up.
    Anthem D2v
    NAD M50 Music Server
    B & K Reference 200.5
    Parasound A21
    B & W 804 (Mains)
    B & W HTM1 (Center)
    Polk Rti4 (Surrounds)
    PS3
    Seaton Submersive HP
    Pioneer PDP 6010FD Kuro
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited November 2010
    Is it an open on all sides rack? If so, just make sure you've got the 8" top clearance. Parasound amps will shut down if not given enough ventilation. I "tried" to get away with 6"---the amp said NO.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • Beta
    Beta Posts: 267
    edited November 2010
    I use Parasound Zbreeze fans with my gear as well. They work excellent.
  • Earthy
    Earthy Posts: 488
    edited November 2010
    steveinaz wrote: »
    Is it an open on all sides rack? If so, just make sure you've got the 8" top clearance. Parasound amps will shut down if not given enough ventilation. I "tried" to get away with 6"---the amp said NO.

    The stand will basically be three 4' shelves 22" deep. Open on all sides. Wow... The manual states 6" clearance.

    "Leave at least 3” of space around both sides and 6” of space above the top. The bottom clearance can be a little less."

    I may opt to add fans. I don't have room to give it 8" above without rethinking everything.

    Thanks everyone.
    Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL
    Parasound Halo A21
    Parasound Halo P3

    Home theater
    Polk LSiM 707, 706c, 703, 705
    Polk Blackstone TL3 for height
    SVS PB12-ISD Sub
    Denon AVR-X6400h
    Parasound Halo A51
    LG OLED65B7A
    Sony UBPX800
    Logitech Harmony Elite
    PC LSiM 703
    Spare LSIM 702 and 706c

    Home Theater #2
    Polk Audio LS70, CS350LS, LSF/X, S4
    Onkyo TX-NR808



  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 5,055
    edited November 2010
    What is amazing is the lack of companys that sell stands that will accomodate a large flat screen, all your gear with proper clearance, and a larger center channel speaker, without spending a small fortune. Post some pics when your done....
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited November 2010
    Earthy wrote: »
    The stand will basically be three 4' shelves 22" deep. Open on all sides. Wow... The manual states 6" clearance.

    "Leave at least 3” of space around both sides and 6” of space above the top. The bottom clearance can be a little less."

    I may opt to add fans. I don't have room to give it 8" above without rethinking everything.

    Thanks everyone.

    You've got a Halo series, I have the HCA-1500a. Halo's have external heatsinks--maybe that's why less cleearance is needed? :confused:
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    edited November 2010
    Earthy wrote: »
    The stand will basically be three 4' shelves 22" deep. Open on all sides. Wow... The manual states 6" clearance.

    "Leave at least 3” of space around both sides and 6” of space above the top. The bottom clearance can be a little less."

    I may opt to add fans. I don't have room to give it 8" above without rethinking everything.

    Thanks everyone.

    I would say since your building to add the fans. Then you can get the look you want, with more than enough ventilation.

    You might however want to build a test box (consisting of one section of the build) for your gear with the fans in it to ensure your gear doesnt turn off anyway before you spend lots of time making a finished piece.

    Just a thought.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • Gulfstrings
    Gulfstrings Posts: 313
    edited November 2010
    My components space is very limited and I was concerned about stuff running too hot. I borrowed an infrared thermometer and sampled the temps of both my AVR and amp. With that data, I contacted both makers (Onkyo and NAD) to learns what operating temps they recommended. Surprisingly, both were higher than I thought.

    I ended up adding an Antec cooling fan atop the Onkyo. It has run effectively now 24/7 for several months and was priced at (if memory serves) about $80. It looks nice and I believe would fit within your preferred dimensions.

    Building in fans sounds like a great approach, but this may work for you - as well as the other top fans mentioned - as well.

    I've tried to attach a link to my systems photos, if this doesn't work check it out in the Systems photo section under Gulfstrings. It's the second piece from the top.

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showcase/view.php?userid=106014
    Marantz AV7005
    Marantz MM7055
    Onkyo DX-755 CdP
    Oppo BDP-93
    Technics SL-1301/Shure M97xE
    Polk RTi A7s
    Polk CSi A6
    Polk FXi A6s
    Velodyne VDR10-BV
    Panamax M5100-PM
    Antec VERIS A/V Cooler x 2
  • leftwinger57
    leftwinger57 Posts: 2,917
    edited November 2010
    HELLO,
    Just a question about these cooling fans. I used to stack my cdp on top
    of my avr and of course the Yamaha got a little warm so I made my own
    stands out of pvc and covered w/ black gorilla tape it looked good it worked
    well and used it until my rack changed. Now about these fans, do the push cool air in or exhaust out. Also i've found that my ADCOMgfa555 runs very cool all day long at a fairly high volume....lw
    2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

    Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
  • Gulfstrings
    Gulfstrings Posts: 313
    edited November 2010
    HELLO,
    Just a question about these cooling fans. I used to stack my cdp on top
    of my avr and of course the Yamaha got a little warm so I made my own
    stands out of pvc and covered w/ black gorilla tape it looked good it worked
    well and used it until my rack changed. Now about these fans, do the push cool air in or exhaust out. Also i've found that my ADCOMgfa555 runs very cool all day long at a fairly high volume....lw

    The Ancar I have pulls the hot air in from its bottom and exhausts it out vents in the rear. It has two fan settings, hi and lo, and is barely audible on its lo setting and quiet on the hi setting.

    One of the features I like about this unit is its size. Its large enough to nearly cover the top of the AVR with most of that surface area working to remove heat.

    I always check the blue light and make sure I can 'hear' it running before turning on the component it cools. Come to think of it, I wouldn't want it completely quiet ...
    Marantz AV7005
    Marantz MM7055
    Onkyo DX-755 CdP
    Oppo BDP-93
    Technics SL-1301/Shure M97xE
    Polk RTi A7s
    Polk CSi A6
    Polk FXi A6s
    Velodyne VDR10-BV
    Panamax M5100-PM
    Antec VERIS A/V Cooler x 2