Configuring New System

Kazimir

Installer4life wrote: »

Can't run active on your SR components without a processor. JL amp highest high pass frequency is only 500 hz. You will have to use the passive crossover provided with the components. Install the passive crossovers in the trunk so that when you do get the processor it will be easy to remove them and wire the speakers straight to the amp. You could leave the crossovers in and bi-amp with them but with the processor it would not be necessary.

Thanks, guess I have to sell a kidney RQ

Kazimir

Are their such things as ground distribution blocks? For example I have a power distribution block that takes 1 0 gauge input and has 4 4gauge outputs. Are their similar blocks that have 4 4gauge inputs and 1 0 gauge output, thus allowing me to only have to ground once?

Kazimir

Is it necessary to fuse the remote 12v line?

exalted512

Kazimir wrote: »

Couple questions about sound dampening.

1) Is expanding foam a good idea for a trunk door? The are 2 pieces to the door that are welded and I cant really get into. My idea was to lay a few pieces of second skin on the parts I could, then put expanding foam in the rest.

2) Does second skin have sales often or is there a cheaper place than their site?

3) Am I spending my money properly?
Dampener (dynamat) = Cover the whole interior
Luxury Liner Pro (mlv w/ ccf) = Outer Door panel, Trunk Door
Luxury Liner (mlv) = Floors, Trunk
Speaker Tweakers = Behind front mids

Any other advice or things you would do differently?

1. Yes, but be careful and apply it in small amounts. Expanding foam expands A LOT, and it WILL push your door skin out if you use too much.

2. Second skin does have sales semi-regularly. They also sale their b-stock stuff (which is usually like a messed up logo or something that doesn't affect performance). I'm signed up to their newsletter/email. I'd try that.

3. I would put some closed cell foam inside the doors where your speakers are mounted as well.

Kazimir wrote: »

Also, was planning on second skin b/c it seems highly over engineered to withstand high temps. I live in the DC area and temps range annually from 0-120 degrees F with humidity considered. If then is another product which can hold up and work as well for cheaper I would consider it.

Could also use raamat. Not quite as good as second skin, but typically a little easier on the wallet.

Kazimir wrote: »

Are their such things as ground distribution blocks? For example I have a power distribution block that takes 1 0 gauge input and has 4 4gauge outputs. Are their similar blocks that have 4 4gauge inputs and 1 0 gauge output, thus allowing me to only have to ground once?

A distribution block is a distribution block. There's no separate '12V' and 'ground' distribution blocks. They're all the same.

Kazimir wrote: »

Is it necessary to fuse the remote 12v line?

If you're sticking with the stock head unit, I would fuse it with a 1-7.5A fuse max.
-Cody

Kazimir

Well doing my final designs for the 80%(sound dampening/wires/building sub&amp box) install next week, is there any reason not to mount the ms8/amps to the sub box?

Still need to buy HU, 600/4, and sr5250 but that will have to wait till after Jan 10 when Im on next month CC bill. Should be able to post pics next weekend or so.

Kazimir

So, I forgot to post this a while back. Here is my build log over at MP3car. Where I get some more work done and finish straightening up the first post, I will transfer to a thread over here.

http://www.mp3car.com/worklogs/148460-2008-honda-accord-coupe-lots-of-pics.html

Just like to thank everyone on the forums for all your help thus far.

arun1963

Do you have sound yet or is it still in the install stage?

Kazimir

Install stage. I havent been able to work on the car for the past 5 weeks... This weekend however, I am finishing running the 0 gauge and building the amp (2 amps, processor, computer) and wiring everything. Must say this has taken longer then desired, but the quality of the work is better than I would have gotten at a shop, and its saving me 1600-2200 per the quotes I receive.

Next week, my goal is to glass the sub box and have everything put together. Then... just...a...matter...of waiting for Seas to arrive in country.... Also have to build the PC and install. Not hard as long as nothing is DOA.

Kazimir

So...before I screw this up...

How do I properly connect Seas Lotus terminals. I was inclined to solder them, but in this image it looks like there is a connector of some sort.

12 or so pics down for tweeters and a bit more for mids.
http://caraudiomag.com/articles/2011-subaru-impreza-wrx-sti

Some pics of the raw terminals here.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/car-audio-classifieds/62381-fs-seas-lotus-rt27f-tweeters-$245.html


Speakers should be in this week . May have this done before the 1 year mark lol

JBD99ERIDE

Look like standard driver terminals to me. You can use something like these to connect it:
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/108-305
Not sure what size would be appropriate, these come in 1/4" and 3/16" there are other sizes available from different manufacturers, look under the connectors section on the website

Kazimir

JBD99ERIDE wrote: »

Look like standard driver terminals to me. You can use something like these to connect it:
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/108-305
Not sure what size would be appropriate, these come in 1/4" and 3/16" there are other sizes available from different manufacturers, look under the connectors section on the website

Thanks.

JBD99ERIDE

sure