Are MW6503's a good replacement for MW6511's?

zarrdoss

if there are no holes or the glue has not pulled loose your good. usually not the rubber is very supple mainly check the glue in that area.

michaeljhsda2

Will do. thanks

mmadden28

Ya know, about JB weld--I've done a few drivers already, but I'm having my doubts about it lately. The last driver I did with it, the JB weld was doing all kinds of funny things, creating bridges and air pockets and in general pulling away from the magnets as if it were alive.
Turns out JB weld actually has steel in the compound, and well steel and magnets don't mix well or should I say they do funny things together. I recall the first few times I used it successfully, it was a putty that has to be kneaded (JB Stik), but the most recent time was with the JB weld that is in tubes that needed to be mixed, more liquidy. Not sure if anybody else had a similar experience or not. While the JB Stik still has steel in it, its apparently not as willing to bend to the magnetic flux's will.

It also makes me wonder if the added steel in the JB Weld is affecting the drivers in anyway. I haven't seen the putty stucks at the store recently so I'm looking for an alternative now, specifically one that isn't steel reinforced. I'd prefer something that will flow a bit so I can pipe it on for a neater application, the putty is just plain ugly and a bit of a PITA.

michaeljhsda2

mmadden28 wrote: »

Ya know, about JB weld--I've done a few drivers already, but I'm having my doubts about it lately. The last driver I did with it, the JB weld was doing all kinds of funny things, creating bridges and air pockets and in general pulling away from the magnets as if it were alive.
Turns out JB weld actually has steel in the compound, and well steel and magnets don't mix well or should I say they do funny things together. I recall the first few times I used it successfully, it was a putty that has to be kneaded (JB Stik), but the most recent time was with the JB weld that is in tubes that needed to be mixed, more liquidy. Not sure if anybody else had a similar experience or not. While the JB Stik still has steel in it, its apparently not as willing to bend to the magnetic flux's will.

It also makes me wonder if the added steel in the JB Weld is affecting the drivers in anyway. I haven't seen the putty stucks at the store recently so I'm looking for an alternative now, specifically one that isn't steel reinforced. I'd prefer something that will flow a bit so I can pipe it on for a neater application, the putty is just plain ugly and a bit of a PITA.

I wonder if Liquid Nails would work adequately?

Toolfan66

I have JB welded about 50 drivers with no problems at all...I don't think I would like Liquid Nails, Zarrdoss (aka Kevin) has used a clear epoxy that seems to work well not sure of the name but I'm sure he will chime in on what it is and even looks cleaner. I have stuck with JB weld only cause it,s what I'm used to..

AudioGenics

I look up some information on Liquid Nails ... which is a generic
when you get to their website there are many different application
mainly focused on construction and household usage.

At this page http://www.liquidnails.com/products/smallPackageAdhesive.jsp
for metal to metal surfaces
LN203 Epoxy
LN201 Multipurpose

Epoxy would likely be higher bonding strength.

....work adequately ? Probably so....

I would lean toward JB or ' loctite ' .

helipilotdoug

michaeljhsda2 wrote: »

I'm glad you brought this up. It appears that the factory is not cutting enough of the rubber away from around the holes. I didn't notice it at the time when I installed a new MW 65xx in my 1C's. A few weeks later i noticed that the rubber was bound up in 2 areas and I thought that the MW was defective. I used a scalpel to cut away the rubber...kinda frustrating that I had to do this. Is there any way to check if the integrity of the surround has been affected?

I learned about the problem of the rubber surround not being cut out enough around the screw holes. I had replaced a driver in a set of 2A's with a new one from Polk. Several months later I discovered a tear in the surround where the screw had caught the rubber when I tightened it. Fortunately Polk Audio, being the customer oriented company it is, sent me a replacement free of charge. Thank you Polk Audio!

[Deleted User]

dcmartinpc wrote: »

OK, now I see. First, I realized my question about the pressure not is kind of dumb, because the magnet pulls everything together But.... I do have 2 questions...

1.) I know I may be asking a really basic question, but what epoxy should I use between the magnet and the plate? And how much should I put there. don't want to over epoxy, but want enough to hold it.

2.) What kid of epoxy should I put around the magnet and plates to keep this from happening on the other drivers.

I am going to call Polk CS on Monday to verify without question the availability of the 6511's. Heck, I am going to ask them to have someone go in the parts room and LOOK!


Don

FYI - There is no parts room where CS is located. I believe the warehouse is on the left coast. It is unfortunate that an 8 ohm driver was recommended for a 4 ohm driver. Bad info all the way around.

To all - I will e-mail an old friend of mine and inquire as to which driver would be a good replacement for the 6511. I am not sure what his response will be (i.e. - cool, lukewarm, etc) but I'll try. Stay tuned. :cool:

dcmartinpc

I called Polk and they have the 6511's and the 6510's... I picked one up to get me through the holidays, then I will repair the vintage driver after the first of the year as many people say the new 6511's are not as nice as the vintage...


Don

michaeljhsda2

If there's a difference in sound between the RDO and the original I sure as heck can't tell. If anyone else can, I'm envious. YMMV.

heiney9

michaeljhsda2 wrote: »

If there's a difference in sound between the RDO and the original I sure as heck can't tell. If anyone else can, I'm envious. YMMV.

Are you kidding? The RD0194-1 is miles better than the sl2000, not even a contest. If you can't really discern that then just stick to originals and keep your money for something else.

H9

michaeljhsda2

heiney9 wrote: »

Are you kidding? The RD0194-1 is miles better than the sl2000, not even a contest. If you can't really discern that then just stick to originals and keep your money for something else.

H9

LOL x a million, I'm talking about the MW6510's and MW6511's, not the SL2000 tweeters

heiney9

michaeljhsda2 wrote: »

LOL x a million, I'm talking about the MW6510's and MW6511's, not the SL2000 tweeters

Well you said RDO so I assumed you were talking tweets, which I thought was odd since this is a thread about MW's

H9

michaeljhsda2

heiney9 wrote: »

Well you said RDO so I assumed you were talking tweets, which I thought was odd since this is a thread about MW's

H9

I hear ya...I think the MW replacement part #'s begin with an RDO but I can't say that with any certainty.
PM sent your way re: tubes.

skrol

mmadden28 wrote: »

Ya know, about JB weld--I've done a few drivers already, but I'm having my doubts about it lately. ....

I had picked up some tube of JB Weld to do mine and also picked up a similar putty epoxy product by Loctite. I haven't tried either yet.

Other alternatives may be:
MarineTex http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html

AquaMend Fiberglass-Reinforced Epoxy Putty Stick http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xh7/R-100179501/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Uralane, if you can find it. We use this at work and I know it is non metallic.