2009 Ranger upgrade advice

Marlboro_Man
Marlboro_Man Posts: 12
edited November 2010 in Car Audio & Electronics
Hi there,

I'm pretty new to car audio. I have been reading up online trying to get a handle on things. I use polk everything in my HT setup and really like the polk product. Anyways here are the details:

2009 Ford Ranger, regular cab, four banger. Only upgrade I have made was to a pioneer deh-5000ub head unit. Thats it.

I'm looking for sound quality. I listen to rock mostly but there is some rap and heavy metal in there as well. I don't need to wake the neighbors.

I would like to install a set of component speakers, a sub and an amp. I'm a pretty handy guy, building a box for a sub and installing a couple tweeters in my door panels is well within my abilities. Obviously, I am dealing with a small space in the cab of this truck. I originally thought of going fairly basic with the 5 1/4 DB components with the 8" DB sub in a sealed box. However, with the size of the cab and the fact that I would install the tweeters in the door panels anyway, maybe I should just go with a set of coaxials in the doors and a sub behind the seat. Would it make all that much of a difference? Coaxials would also take the crossovers out of the equation.

The one component I am not too sure of is the amp. I see that 4 channel amps can be set up to run front speakers and bridged to run a sub. I would like to run a polk amp. Not sure what size to go with. I have also read about people running the front speakers off the HU alone and getting a mono amp for the sub.

Pretty much a blank canvas. Just wanted to get some different points of view before I dropped any coin.
Polk RTi8's
Polk CSi3
Polk FXi A4's
PSW505
Pioneer VSX-1017TXV-K

Samsung 67" LED
Post edited by Marlboro_Man on

Comments

  • messiah
    messiah Posts: 1,790
    edited November 2010
    I'd say upgrade to an f-150. :wink:
    "They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety."
    Benjamin Franklin, February 17th, 1775.

    "The day that I have to give up my constitutional rights AND let some dude rub my junk...well, let's just say that it's gonna be a real bad day for the dude trying to rub my junk!!"
    messiah, November 23rd, 2010
  • mole'
    mole' Posts: 3,160
    edited November 2010
    messiah wrote: »
    I'd say upgrade to an chevy or dodge. :wink:

    fixed


    i think MTX makes some nice boxes for it
    mole'
  • messiah
    messiah Posts: 1,790
    edited November 2010
    LOL c'mon Mole', no love for the blue oval? :eek::biggrin:
    "They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety."
    Benjamin Franklin, February 17th, 1775.

    "The day that I have to give up my constitutional rights AND let some dude rub my junk...well, let's just say that it's gonna be a real bad day for the dude trying to rub my junk!!"
    messiah, November 23rd, 2010
  • Marlboro_Man
    Marlboro_Man Posts: 12
    edited November 2010
    I like the way you think Dskip. Crossovers in the empty rear speaker box area is a great idea. Not sure about pulling the trigger on the SR series, i know they will sound great but then I'll want an sr sub........ Have a buddy that has some mm series components available, not even out of the box.

    As far as vehicles go, my original plan was a Tundra. The only problem is the price of gas, $1.10 per LITRE. I'll stick with my 4 cyl Ford for now!
    Polk RTi8's
    Polk CSi3
    Polk FXi A4's
    PSW505
    Pioneer VSX-1017TXV-K

    Samsung 67" LED
  • Marlboro_Man
    Marlboro_Man Posts: 12
    edited November 2010
    DSkip wrote: »
    You may want and SR sub, but even if you did, there's no way it'd fit in a regular cab Ranger. You might consider the new MM subs. Even though there isn't an 8" version (I might be wrong), they are shallower subs and use some of the same technology the SR's do.

    Ok DSkip,

    Lets assume I go with the 5 1/4 MM components, and an 8" MM Sub. The components are 2.7 ohm impedance, the sub is 4 Ohm. What would you recommend size wise for an amp? I'm thinking the pa500.4. I'm not too sure about calculating the continuous watts that an amp will pump out when dealing with speakers and subs that have different impedance levels. The MM components are rated at 90w continuous while the sub is rated at 250w continuous.

    One other thing and this might be stupid, but I really don't want to upgrade my alternator or battery or anything like that. I'll pull back on the equipment if I have to.
    Polk RTi8's
    Polk CSi3
    Polk FXi A4's
    PSW505
    Pioneer VSX-1017TXV-K

    Samsung 67" LED