Monitor 40 set to Large + PSW 110 set to max channel volume = perfect bass

Mon40CSMM10

Although Polk Audio's recommendation is to use the Small setting with the Monitor 40's--testing and retesting, calibration and recalibration, this has revealed that the Monitor 40 + PSW 110 combination I am using works best with the Monitor 40's set to Large.

To my ears, even with the crossover set to 80 Hz there is a frequency gap when using the Monitor 40's set to small that gets filled in nicely filled in when changing the Monitor 40 setting to Large. What works even better? Calibrate the Monitor 40's using the Small setting, then change to Large after calibration is finished. To me, this gives an excellent blend of deep bass from the mains along with the subwoofer, without being too muddy. In contrast, when the Monitor 40's were left at Small, the sound seemed to have too little bass presence and a bit too much midrange in Stereo mode and also using Dolby Pro Logic II Music mode with a Center Width parameter set all the way to +6.

Also, to prevent the subwoofer from turning off at lower volumes, set the subwoofer amplifier dial to Min., set the subwoofer channel to maximum volume, and then slowly increase the subwoofer amplifier dial until the desired calibrated subwoofer volume is reached. This worked very well with the PSW 110, and it may also work well with other subs.

Now, I know I've mentioned using Monitor 40's set to Large once before, but if I recall that was relevant to using them without a subwoofer. In this case, I find that using the Large setting still works even with a subwoofer. (Just leave the receiver subwoofer setting at On and don't use the Plus setting.)

kuntasensei

If that works for you, despite going against every possible setup guideline, then awesome. That's what it's all about.

Mon40CSMM10 wrote: »

Also, to prevent the subwoofer from turning off at lower volumes, set the subwoofer amplifier dial to Min., set the subwoofer channel to maximum volume, and then slowly increase the subwoofer amplifier dial until the desired calibrated subwoofer volume is reached. This worked very well with the PSW 110, and it may also work well with other subs.

Again, if that works for you, great! However, for others reading this, this is an extraordinarily bad idea. Turning the subwoofer trim on the AVR to its maximum limit can increase the line level of the sub out to the point of distortion and the ideal situation is to keep the subwoofer trim as close to 0 as possible. You have to consider that the LFE channel receives a +10dB boost during decoding, meaning its potential output is 115dB at reference level. Does it keep a subwoofer with auto-sensing turned on? Sure... but the likely reason it does is because you've turned the sub trim up so high that the sub is constantly sensing noise from the line out... when the reason the sub was turning off in the first place is because you're running the Monitor 40s as large, limiting the subwoofer's output to the LFE channel only and redirecting bass from the other channels to the mains.

Bottom line for the OP: If you had a frequency gap when running the Monitor 40s as small, you likely should have played with either the phase control or the subwoofer distance setting (which acts as a phase control by its nature) until your mains were properly in phase with your sub. Alternately, you should have tried varying speaker placement to get a better blend based on the acoustics in your room. Something as simple as moving your sub a few inches away from a wall can have a dramatic effect. As it is, deep bass sent to the Monitor 40s toward the lower end of their spec'd operation is likely turning to all bloat, giving the illusion of more bass despite the fact that it won't be clean undistorted bass. You're also reducing headroom from your AVR's amp section, leaving you less reserve power to handle transient bursts of sound cleanly.

I suspect that you may just like the bloated overly-pumped bass that most consumers tend to prefer, though it is inaccurate if your goal is to properly reproduce theatrical mixes in the home at the balance and levels intended by the original mixers. But again... in all cases, it's your system, so if it sounds good that way to you, ROCK ON!

pearsall001

Here's a great article that helps to explain the "Small" vs. "Large" speaker settings. But in the end it always comes down to what sounds best to you. I'd suggest to do some more adjusting & tweaking. I found the best fit for my system was to set my mains to small at 80Hz (hi-pass) in my AVR & I use a Harrison Lab FMod passive crossover (100Hz low pass) on both of my subs. The soundstage & dynamics are incredible. The perfect combo for both HT & two channel listening.
http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/34579/128214.html

Mon40CSMM10

I did a little bit of calibration modification but those Monitor 40's still have to be set to Large for the best possible sound. The most significant change was I just lowered the subwoofer channel in the receiver from +10.0 dB to +7.5 dB and increase the subwoofer amp dial as need to reach the calibration level.

Now, by increasing the receiver calibration volume from -18 dB default calibration volume level up to -10 dB maximum, then calibrating as close to 75 dB peaks as possible for the front mains--even though the surrounds were peaking around 78 dB at the lowest possible receiver surround channel volume and I also wanted the subwoofer about 3 dB higher than the mains--I get this:

Speaker Settings (after using Quick Setup):
• Front: Large. (Overrides Polk Audio recommendation of Small.)
• Center: Small.
• Surround: Small.
• Subwoofer: Yes.

Speaker Distance settings:
• Front Left: 9.0 feet.
• Center: 8.0 feet
• Front Right: 9.5 feet.
• Right Surround: 3.0 feet.
• Left Surround: 2.5 feet.
• Subwoofer: 5.0 feet.

Channel levels: Calibrated at -10 dB maximum receiver volume.
• Front Left: -7.5 dB.
• Center: -9.5 dB.
• Front Right: -7.5 dB.
• Right Surround: -10.0 dB.
• Left Surround: -10.0 dB.
• Subwoofer: +7.5 dB.

Crossover Setting:
• X.Over: 80 Hz.

Dolby Pro Logic II Music mode Settings:
• Center Width: 6.
• Dimension: +3.
• Panorama: Off.

I'll also state right now that home theater accuracy is secondary to having full bass response that can also be heard when playing music and video games. The walls don't have to shake, and yet I don't want to just barely detect the bass in the music. What I have now is bass than can be heard and yet it is not muddy nor audibly distorted.

In conclusion, I had a very hard time getting that sound that I now have using Small setting for the Monitor 40's. Maybe it's because the speakers are angled inward so that the inner back corner is 1/2 inch away from the wall and the outer back corner is about about 1 1/2 inches away from the wall, but that's the arrangement I am working with for that room. (Room dimensions are about 16 feet wide x 9.5 feet deep x 7.5 feet high, and when sitting in the listening position the left side ends in a wall with a sliding glass door and right side is open into other rooms).

kuntasensei

Like I said, you clearly have other issues that could've been addressed. But hey, if it works for you, great. I just don't want others reading what you're doing and thinking that's GOOD advice.

messiah

Channel levels: Calibrated at -10 dB maximum receiver volume.
• Front Left: -7.5 dB.
• Center: -9.5 dB.
• Front Right: -7.5 dB.
• Right Surround: -10.0 dB.
• Left Surround: -10.0 dB.
• Subwoofer: +7.5 dB.



Those are probably the weirdest settings I've ever seen!!

kuntasensei

messiah wrote: »

Channel levels: Calibrated at -10 dB maximum receiver volume.
• Front Left: -7.5 dB.
• Center: -9.5 dB.
• Front Right: -7.5 dB.
• Right Surround: -10.0 dB.
• Left Surround: -10.0 dB.
• Subwoofer: +7.5 dB.



Those are probably the weirdest settings I've ever seen!!

Yeah... I'm not sure why he's calibrating to -10dB instead of calibrating for reference. But like I said, if it works for him, great. I'd like to know what AVR is being used though.

cnh

I have to agree, I can barely keep my AVR setting at +3db with the sub volume at about 12 o'clock. And often have to back it off for Music. And those are, indeed odd settings?

What AVR are you running? As far as setting speakers to small for towers....I just can't bring myself to do that. I do set the supporting cast to small or 80hz though. But you're running bookshelves?

What I'm curious about is trying to balance two channel with surround. My fronts reach 40hz so I cut the L/R at 50hz and leave the rest at 80hz. I'm not sure this is the best thing to do. But to my ear this works for 2 and 5.1.

However, as pointed out. It's not really possible to describe 'the' settings for everyone. So whatever sounds good to 'you' is good.

cnh

Mon40CSMM10

Yeah... I'm not sure why he's calibrating to -10dB instead of calibrating for reference.

AVR used is Pioneer VSX-517K.

The receiver master volume doesn't go up to 0 dB. At best I've seen -7 dB maximum possible using headphones, -8 dB maximum possible with the receiver set to 8 ohm speakers setting, at the 6 ohm speaker setting it only gives a maximum of -10 dB.

I figured due to the fact the CSM is 4 ohms nominal but Polk says compatible with 8 ohms systems, using the 6 ohm setting was a safe compromise. I suppose even if I set the receiver to 8 ohm speakers setting I'd probably use the -10 dB master volume instead of -8 dB, but for some reason the recevier uses default master volume of -18 dB in either 6 ohm or 8 ohm speakers mode when calibration is first started.

Depending on the input source, I usually have the receiver listening volume set as low as -72 dB to no more than -45 dB when watching a movie instead of listening to music or playing video games.