Help Identifying/Possible Problem

kurzawa887
kurzawa887 Posts: 5
edited October 2010 in Vintage Speakers
I was going through my parent's basement and came across a pair of polk audio monitor speakers. From looking around I am unable to identify which model they are. I'm fairly certain they are Monitor 10As, according to the serial number starting with 10A. Is this an incorrect assumption? Can anybody else help by looking at a picture of them? (College internet is being a little unreliable right now picture will be up as soon as it cooperates.)

My next question is after using these for a while they were both in perfect working condition. While listening to music it seems as if the tweeters went out. If that is indeed the case, would the vocals of songs still come out of the mids, or would it just become negated completely. Basically I'm trying to figure out if the tweeters in both were blown at the same time, or if there is some internal crossover that just flipped or something.

Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated.
-Brian


-edit Picture now uppolkaudiospeaker.jpg
Post edited by kurzawa887 on

Comments

  • phocion
    phocion Posts: 157
    edited October 2010
    Brian,

    A pic is helpful, front and back :) If they are monitor 10's, they should have a tweeter, 2 6.5" drivers and a 10" passive radiator. Tweeters in these, and many other classic polks, do have a tendency to get blown over the years. Vocals will come out of the mids, but the speaker will sound muffled and dull, notably missing cymbals and the like.

    Some monitor 10's have a fuse holder in the back, and we generally suggest you remove the fuse or fuses, check them, and clean off any corrosion on the fuse holder, which can affect the sound. Here is a post that deals with that: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89439&

    Cheers, and welcome to Club Polk :)
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  • kurzawa887
    kurzawa887 Posts: 5
    edited October 2010
    I tried cleaning the fuse contact points, and the sound quality did not return. What are the odds of both of the tweeters being blown at exactly the same time?
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited October 2010
    Have you pulled the tweets to see if they are disconnected?
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  • kurzawa887
    kurzawa887 Posts: 5
    edited October 2010
    When i took them out, as far as i could see they were connected. Is it possible that the fuses on the back are just blown? When removed, i still get the same sound quality as if they were inserted
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,569
    edited October 2010
    What are the odds of both of the tweeters being blown at exactly the same time?

    Excellent, if you drove your AVR/amp into clipping.

    Try replacing the fuses and keep the volume level lower in the future.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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  • kurzawa887
    kurzawa887 Posts: 5
    edited October 2010
    The receiver that I have puts out max 90 watts per channel. Isn't that split up between the 4 components in one of the speakers? I'm going to replace the fuses and see if this fixes the problem. If you could explain the possible clipping I would like to know more about that.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,569
    edited October 2010
    Clipping occurs when the amplifier section of your receiver or any amplifier has reached its maximum clean output. On a scope, the sine waves no longer look like a wave form, but become cut off/square, hence the term clipping. This is distortion and tweeters are very sensitive to it. The fuses in your speakers are used to help protect the tweeters from damage.

    Generally speaking, anything more than halfway (12 noon) on the volume control will result in bad things happening.
    Isn't that split up between the 4 components in one of the speakers?

    Not exactly....and btw, the big one at the bottom is actually a passive radiator. It is not powered.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


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  • kurzawa887
    kurzawa887 Posts: 5
    edited October 2010
    I replaced the fuses and it seems to be working like it was before. Thanks for the help and the explanations!
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited October 2010
    Make sure you used a 1amp fast blow fuse.
    Welcome to Club Polk.
    Ben
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  • Audioquest
    Audioquest Posts: 104
    edited October 2010
    kurzawa887 wrote: »
    When i took them out, as far as i could see they were connected. Is it possible that the fuses on the back are just blown? When removed, i still get the same sound quality as if they were inserted

    Put your ear next to the tweeter, you'll know right away if they are working or not. If it's out, put a multimeter (set to 200 ohm range) on the 2 terminals. If it shows no reading it has an open circuit. Seen this quite a few times over the years on the many vintage Polk's I've owned. The 6.5" drivers can quit too. The voice coils become frozen in place. Warped for some reason.
    HT: Polk SDA SRS 2.3 main fronts, Klipsch RC-25 center channel, Polk RTi-150 rears, M&K V1B sub, Denon AVR-5800, Samsung 52" LCD, Sony BDP-S550

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,569
    edited October 2010
    He already fixed the problem, hello!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


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