Jesse, wood care question...
steveinaz
Posts: 19,538
My Carbon 7's are real wood veneer (ribbon mahoghany) I think they've just been "hand rubbed" with oil as there doesn't appear to be varnish or any other clear coating on them.
What's the best way to maintain this kind of finish?
What's the best way to maintain this kind of finish?
Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
Post edited by steveinaz on
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Steve, that's the exact finish I have on my Tylers. Mine are too new to have thought of this question before but I'd be interested in diving into Jesse's brain on this subject. Thanks.~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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I have speaks in the same ribbon mahoghany, I just use lemon oil by hand but if Jess has a better product, I would like to know as well.HT SYSTEM-
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My Carbon 7's are real wood veneer (ribbon mahoghany) I think they've just been "hand rubbed" with oil as there doesn't appear to be varnish or any other clear coating on them.
What's the best way to maintain this kind of finish?
If you mean dusting, just wipe off the dust with a slightly damp soft cotton cloth and call it a day.
Otherwise, if they really have an oil finish, you will need to reapply oil to them every once in awhile. Like every few years or when they start to look very dull and dry. I'd recommend using a product like Watco Danish oil. If Watco is used, follow the rag disposal instructions to the letter.
Lemon oil is nothing more than mineral oil with lemon scent added, zero lemon oil. Personally, I would never put mineral oil on anything I own, although there are worse choices.
There are finishes that may appear to be an oil rubbed finish, but are not. Therefore, I would recommend contacting the manufacturer to find out exactly what they used. For example, I could apply a coat or two of thinned out varnish and it will end up looking exactly like an oil rubbed finish, but with better protection, which will not dry out.
Tom, are you sure they don't have a clear coat on them? Didn't I see a spray booth in those pics you showed me of the factory?Political Correctness'.........defined
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Jesse, where does boiled linseed oil fall into use here...if its an alternative.--Gary--
Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out. -
Unless you have a genuine antique piece of furniture that was done in linseed oil, forget about it as it is actually a terrible choice.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Jesse, where does boiled linseed oil fall into use here...if its an alternative.
Boiled linseed oil is linseed oil for the impatient. It 'dries' faster, but still doesn't offer the best possible protection.
Watco danish oil is a classic.
Personally, I'm still having fun with wax. -
Steve, that's the exact finish I have on my Tylers. Mine are too new to have thought of this question before but I'd be interested in diving into Jesse's brain on this subject. Thanks.
You may want to double check with Ty as the finish on my Linbrook Monitors is actually a light satin lacquer finish - I talked with Ty about the finish as I had some light scuffs I wanted to fix. -
Jesse, he does have a spray booth.....or at least he did in the old factory. That said, I don't know whether or not he sprayed any kind of finish on the veneer or not. It may have just been for the bases, subs or another line I am not familiar with. I'll get in touch with him when time allows and get back with you.
Thanks Polkitup2, they do have a shine but it is very subtle. Being heavy into paints and not wood finishing, it looks more like a velvet flat sheen -vs- a satin finish but that doesn't mean a damned thing. Two separate animals, I would imagine. I just wish I had contacted him before he put the velcro tabs on for the grills. On my last pair, I tried everything in my book and the finish was still not quite right when I tried to remove them. He says, once they are on....there on.
I need to contact him anyway due to wanting to do some custom work to the rig to match the speakers so maybe I can knock out two birds with one stone.~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
I've been using this on my furniture and veneered speakers: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17424"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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I've been using this on my furniture and veneered speakers: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17424
That is the best wax money can buy. Highly recommended!
Tom, I'm sure the clear coat is lacquer.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
My Ribbon Mahogany Linbrooks had some clear coat; urethane or something like that._________________________________________________
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Thank you or the help Jesse.--Thanks Face.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2