New LS90s have some issues

saabracer23
saabracer23 Posts: 43
edited April 2011 in Vintage Speakers
Hello all, I'm back into the Polk game. I found a pair of LS90s for what I hope is a decent price, $150. They are doing something weird. When they start playing they sound great but after a minute or so the sound extremely distorted. I switched out sources and amplifiers but nothing helped. I pulled all of the drivers (because they all sounded horrible) and measured impedance and played them fullrange and they're all great. This has got me thinking it may be the caps in the crossover? It's weird both speakers have the problem.

So since I'm thinking I'll have to fix the crossovers I did a search to see upgrades but came up empty handed. Are there upgrades to the crossovers? What over upgrades to bring these to their full potential? I have read someone put the two midrange drivers on top and the bass drivers on bottom? Clearing out some of the stuffing? I checked the coils onthe crossovers and it looks like there is a 4mH and a 1.55mH I believe. Is this the updated one?

Any advise on these would be greatly appreciated, I know there was plenty to do on my old sda 2s

Thanks
Dan
Post edited by saabracer23 on
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Comments

  • ohskigod
    ohskigod Posts: 6,502
    edited October 2010
    both channels?, odd.

    swap speaker cables by chance? worth a shot if you didnt. Incidentally, 150 for the pair is damn good, so if you gotta put money into them you got the room to do so and still be ahead.

    I would say pull the crossover and use another driver on them (low volumes of course) to see if it distorts on other drivers. if both are gone, someone probably played them REAL loud, as I used to pummel the bejesus out of mine and they just took it in stride.

    see if there is a fuse in the crossover or something maybe? just throwing out ideas, let some others chime in here too.
    Living Room 2 Channel -
    Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.

    Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
    Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.

    Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    edited October 2010
    The LS90's I see around me are going for 500+ so you made a very nice score, even if like ohskigod said you need to drop a little cash into em..
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • vc69
    vc69 Posts: 2,500
    edited October 2010
    I have never had x-overs out of mine, so I cannot be of much assistance. I will congratulate on your purchase though. I have close to $500 in mine and they are worth every penny.

    I too am very interested in doing upgrades to the x-overs so I am waiting with much anticipation, and in fact would be willing to trot down this road with you if we can get some help. I have zero experience in these types of things.
    -Kevin
    HT: Philips 52PFL7432D 52" LCD 1080p / Onkyo TX-SR 606 / Oppo BDP-83 SE / Comcast cable. (all HDMI)B&W 801 - Front, Polk CS350 LS - Center, Polk LS90 - Rear
    2 Channel:
    Oppo BDP-83 SE
    Squeezebox Touch
    Muscial Fidelity M1 DAC
    VTL 2.5
    McIntosh 2205 (refurbed)
    B&W 801's
    Transparent IC's
  • saabracer23
    saabracer23 Posts: 43
    edited October 2010
    Thanks for the suggestions, any suggestions on crossover upgrades or driver rearranging? Vc69, were you looking for port dimensions? I think I read a thread where you were looking for them

    Dan
  • cokewithvanilla
    cokewithvanilla Posts: 1,777
    edited October 2010
    someone has one sale pending for 485 on the gon... 150 ain't bad
  • saabracer23
    saabracer23 Posts: 43
    edited October 2010
    Well I replaced the caps in both crossovers and....nothin. So I auditioned each woofer again carefully and it so happens it was woofer, it buzzes. So if anyone has a mw7100 laying around I'll take it from you. I'm also still interested in hearing about upgrades.

    Dan
  • vc69
    vc69 Posts: 2,500
    edited October 2010
    Well I replaced the caps in both crossovers and....nothin. So I auditioned each woofer again carefully and it so happens it was woofer, it buzzes. So if anyone has a mw7100 laying around I'll take it from you. I'm also still interested in hearing about upgrades.

    Dan

    I have purchased 2 replacement drivers from Polk CS. Give them a call and mention being a member here for a discount. I replaced 2 to retain mirror imaging, but I have to say I could not hear a difference. Honestly, I didn't try very hard :). These speakers sound great.

    I would still LOVE to try to upgrade the xovers with high end parts. Problem is I am not interested in trying it myself. I have considered getting Ben to give it a shot.
    -Kevin
    HT: Philips 52PFL7432D 52" LCD 1080p / Onkyo TX-SR 606 / Oppo BDP-83 SE / Comcast cable. (all HDMI)B&W 801 - Front, Polk CS350 LS - Center, Polk LS90 - Rear
    2 Channel:
    Oppo BDP-83 SE
    Squeezebox Touch
    Muscial Fidelity M1 DAC
    VTL 2.5
    McIntosh 2205 (refurbed)
    B&W 801's
    Transparent IC's
  • saabracer23
    saabracer23 Posts: 43
    edited October 2010
    Do you remember the pricing on them by chance, I would like to purchase one, but the dust caps are different. Man I remember getting tons of tips on upgrading the sda series I had, but nothin on the ls90?

    Dan
  • saabracer23
    saabracer23 Posts: 43
    edited October 2010
    Ok it looks as though I have the earlier version with the 4mH inductor, is layout the same, just different values?

    Dan
  • vc69
    vc69 Posts: 2,500
    edited October 2010
    Do you remember the pricing on them by chance, I would like to purchase one, but the dust caps are different. Man I remember getting tons of tips on upgrading the sda series I had, but nothin on the ls90?

    Dan

    Seems like it was about $55 with the discount. The dust caps are different, but I have not noticed any difference in the sound of the drivers. I replaced the topmost driver in each speaker which carries the lowest frequency from the xover if I am not mistaken. These are a weird cascaded xover configuration.

    Again, I have never pulled the xovers out. I need to replace binding posts, so it will happen, but I wish I could get them completely rebuilt with Sonicaps and Mills or some such at the same time. I think we are in uncharted territory at that point though. I have found one or two threads where Geppy (?) did some tweaking, but nothing like a rebuild, just monkeying around with the cascade i think.
    -Kevin
    HT: Philips 52PFL7432D 52" LCD 1080p / Onkyo TX-SR 606 / Oppo BDP-83 SE / Comcast cable. (all HDMI)B&W 801 - Front, Polk CS350 LS - Center, Polk LS90 - Rear
    2 Channel:
    Oppo BDP-83 SE
    Squeezebox Touch
    Muscial Fidelity M1 DAC
    VTL 2.5
    McIntosh 2205 (refurbed)
    B&W 801's
    Transparent IC's
  • Polkie2009
    Polkie2009 Posts: 3,834
    edited October 2010
    vc69, you may not have to replace the binding posts, I believe there is a nut and washer on the other side of the plastic cover that secure the threaded binding post. I had one get loose and thought the same thing,darn, the post is jacked up, but no_, I was able to fix it:)
  • vc69
    vc69 Posts: 2,500
    edited October 2010
    Polkie2009 wrote: »
    vc69, you may not have to replace the binding posts, I believe there is a nut and washer on the other side of the plastic cover that secure the threaded binding post. I had one get loose and thought the same thing,darn, the post is jacked up, but no_, I was able to fix it:)

    Thanks, :) but in my case one of the posts threads have been stripped. I want to go with some really nice posts whenever I dig into the xover. I like banana's, but I might want to go "spades" someday.
    -Kevin
    HT: Philips 52PFL7432D 52" LCD 1080p / Onkyo TX-SR 606 / Oppo BDP-83 SE / Comcast cable. (all HDMI)B&W 801 - Front, Polk CS350 LS - Center, Polk LS90 - Rear
    2 Channel:
    Oppo BDP-83 SE
    Squeezebox Touch
    Muscial Fidelity M1 DAC
    VTL 2.5
    McIntosh 2205 (refurbed)
    B&W 801's
    Transparent IC's
  • vc69
    vc69 Posts: 2,500
    edited October 2010
    vc69 wrote: »
    Thanks, :) but in my case one of the posts threads have been stripped. I want to go with some really nice posts whenever I dig into the xover. I like banana's, but I might want to go "spades" someday.

    correction:

    Bananas will work on my current "injured" posts. I can't screw the binding nuts down tightly on one of the four posts on one of my speakers, thereby prohibiting the use of spade terminated cables.

    After re-reading my previous post, I felt compelled to correct myself. Jeez, I am glad I am off work tomorrow. I'm slipping away....
    -Kevin
    HT: Philips 52PFL7432D 52" LCD 1080p / Onkyo TX-SR 606 / Oppo BDP-83 SE / Comcast cable. (all HDMI)B&W 801 - Front, Polk CS350 LS - Center, Polk LS90 - Rear
    2 Channel:
    Oppo BDP-83 SE
    Squeezebox Touch
    Muscial Fidelity M1 DAC
    VTL 2.5
    McIntosh 2205 (refurbed)
    B&W 801's
    Transparent IC's
  • Polkie2009
    Polkie2009 Posts: 3,834
    edited October 2010
    Lol, I could follow what you were saying vc69. Dan, I had to replace a mw7100 in my LS50's due to one of the drivers sounding fuzzy on certain frequencies. I found that by gently pushing the driver in, it would sound fine for a day or so,but the problem would come back. I finally found someone here on CP that had a couple of used mw7100 drivers so I R+R one in it's place. Fixed the problem immediately:)
  • saabracer23
    saabracer23 Posts: 43
    edited October 2010
  • Ron Temple
    Ron Temple Posts: 3,212
    edited October 2010
    Nothing to add to for saabs problem, but I thought I'd chime in since I've been running 90s for a few months now. I've got to say that the 90s have made me procrastinate on setting up the 1Cs in the 2 channel room. I've got the source, the pre, the amp and the room, but the last time I set them up, I just wasn't pleased. I had them in the same position I initially set them up in, but this time the room sounded echo'y, the mids bloated, the bass hard-hitting, but ill defined. In short, I retired the rig until further notice. OTOH, the HT rig featuring the 90s and 35s sounds better everyday. I haven't done too much music listening, but what I have done is more coherent than when I had both 1Cs and 2Bs sharing the load in a not optimum setup. That's not saying I don't miss them. As I've stated before, there's just some material even commercials that SDAs make you sit up an notice the awesomeness. LS90s don't do that. They sound great for everything. but a commercial sounds like a commercial, a well mastered DD TV program very nice...just not, "wow, I've got to find out the artist that did this soundtrack". BDs and music are a tossup. Audyssey sets a hell of a soundstage...maybe I'll hook the 1Cs and 2Bs back up to compare again (I'm using the 2Bs as stands right now).

    Combo rig:

    Onkyo NR1007 pre-pro, Carver TFM 45(fronts), Carver TFM 35 (surrounds)
    SDA 1C, CS400i, SDA 2B
    PB13Ultra RO
    BW Silvers
    Oppo BDP-83SE
  • saabracer23
    saabracer23 Posts: 43
    edited October 2010
    Well it looks as though tweaking the crossover will not work, but I can improve it. The crossover pcb for the first and second version are the same, just different values on the components. First the resistor went from .8 ohms to 1.0 ohms. I'm guessing the 12w mills resistor will do. The one and only cap went from a 50v electrolytic to a 100v Mylar. Should I get a Mylar or put in a polypropylene? Then lastly the original inductor went from a 4.0 mH .55 ohm to a 1.0 mH .25 ohm. What is the ohm rating on the resistor mean, I cannot find that value when shopping.

    Dan
  • Polkie2009
    Polkie2009 Posts: 3,834
    edited October 2010
    Sorry Dan,lol, I'm an old man who's worked on to many things over the years;) R+R is short for remove and replace. Polk broke the mold when they engineered these LS90's, they really are some sweet speakers. :D
  • vc69
    vc69 Posts: 2,500
    edited October 2010
    Polkie2009 wrote: »
    Polk broke the mold when they engineered these LS90's, they really are some sweet speakers. :D

    They Sure did.

    Ron, I am pleased to hear you are enjoying the 90's.

    Saab, please keep us updated on the xovers. Are you going with HQ parts? What are you thinking of using?
    -Kevin
    HT: Philips 52PFL7432D 52" LCD 1080p / Onkyo TX-SR 606 / Oppo BDP-83 SE / Comcast cable. (all HDMI)B&W 801 - Front, Polk CS350 LS - Center, Polk LS90 - Rear
    2 Channel:
    Oppo BDP-83 SE
    Squeezebox Touch
    Muscial Fidelity M1 DAC
    VTL 2.5
    McIntosh 2205 (refurbed)
    B&W 801's
    Transparent IC's
  • saabracer23
    saabracer23 Posts: 43
    edited October 2010
    Well I started another thread but I'm not getting any help there, I may end putting up a thread over at diyaudio. I'll get mills resistors, Jantzen standard z for the caps, and not sure on the coils. I'm wondering if I should go air core or iron core. Only one needs replaced, not sure if I'll gain anything replacing the others. Hmmm

    Dan

    Oh is there a better cap for the money? From what I have read it seems to be the best bang for your buck.
  • vc69
    vc69 Posts: 2,500
    edited October 2010
    Hey Dan,

    Perhaps a thread here with a "help needed" tag and "LS90 xover rebuild" in the title would get some of the more experienced DIY guys on the ball. There is certainly a bunch of knowledge here, but they are mostly SDA guys. These LS90's just haven't quite caught on to that extent. I think they may though, and if you have any luck with this endeavor then I am not too far behind. I can't help but believe that some HQ parts would make a difference. Air inductors seem to be the way to go for some reason.

    I'm pretty excited about you doing this. :)
    -Kevin
    HT: Philips 52PFL7432D 52" LCD 1080p / Onkyo TX-SR 606 / Oppo BDP-83 SE / Comcast cable. (all HDMI)B&W 801 - Front, Polk CS350 LS - Center, Polk LS90 - Rear
    2 Channel:
    Oppo BDP-83 SE
    Squeezebox Touch
    Muscial Fidelity M1 DAC
    VTL 2.5
    McIntosh 2205 (refurbed)
    B&W 801's
    Transparent IC's
  • 55LS70
    55LS70 Posts: 184
    edited October 2010
    I upgraded the crossovers in my LA70's with soniccaps and they sounded better than new. I should also state that I replaced the drivers and tweeters in both of them about a year before.
    Decware CSP3 Preamp, RCA 6DJ8, 2 X Rocket 6N1P-EV's, Cary SLA70B Signature V2 Amplifier: 2 X Mullard GZ32's, 2 X RCA/GE 5691's, 4 X Tung-Sol 6550's

    Cambridge Audio 640C V2 CD Player & Dacmagic DAC

    Rega Planar 3: Deep Groove Subplatter, P3 Motor
    upgrade, Dynavector 10x5, JA Michell counterwieght, Cardas tonearm wiring and Mapleshade stand

    Parks Audio Budgie Hybrid Phonostage with BEL 6922 tubes, Polk Audio LS70's

    H.H. Scott 330D AM/FM Tuner with H.H. Scott 335 Multiplex adaptor.
  • vc69
    vc69 Posts: 2,500
    edited November 2010
    Any new developments?
    -Kevin
    HT: Philips 52PFL7432D 52" LCD 1080p / Onkyo TX-SR 606 / Oppo BDP-83 SE / Comcast cable. (all HDMI)B&W 801 - Front, Polk CS350 LS - Center, Polk LS90 - Rear
    2 Channel:
    Oppo BDP-83 SE
    Squeezebox Touch
    Muscial Fidelity M1 DAC
    VTL 2.5
    McIntosh 2205 (refurbed)
    B&W 801's
    Transparent IC's
  • saabracer23
    saabracer23 Posts: 43
    edited November 2010
    No not really, I'm trying to sell a pair of acoustic elegance 18" passives to fund the project. I prefer my subs sealed. Anyway as soon as they sell I'll start ordering parts. If anyone know someone who would like almost new special order 2500g passive for $150 for the pair let me know!

    Tough market!
    Dan
  • vc69
    vc69 Posts: 2,500
    edited November 2010
    Sure is. Have you posted in the Flea Market?
    -Kevin
    HT: Philips 52PFL7432D 52" LCD 1080p / Onkyo TX-SR 606 / Oppo BDP-83 SE / Comcast cable. (all HDMI)B&W 801 - Front, Polk CS350 LS - Center, Polk LS90 - Rear
    2 Channel:
    Oppo BDP-83 SE
    Squeezebox Touch
    Muscial Fidelity M1 DAC
    VTL 2.5
    McIntosh 2205 (refurbed)
    B&W 801's
    Transparent IC's
  • luv-my-ls50
    luv-my-ls50 Posts: 7
    edited February 2011
    Hi, I'm a new member here. I've got a pair of LS50s and like them a ton. One of the MW7100 drivers has developed a bad buzz where the surround glues to the cone. I've been looking all over these forums tonight trying to find one of these drivers. Somebody suggested I get one from Polk. I've been to their site but can't seem to find where to order one or even search for the part number (MW7100). Could one of you old-school Polkies tell me where/how to order one of these drivers from Polk or maybe one of you guys have one? Also, does it hurt the x-over to unplug the buzzing driver and play the speaker (at low volumes) with just one of the MW7100s? They seem to be wired in series. The other driver still works when the bad one is unplugged. If this is a stupid question, please forgive my ignorance. I am not a EE. Thanks, Dana:frown:
    Warning: I suffer from the delusion that knowledge will solve my problem.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,566
    edited February 2011
    Customer Service & Tech Support:
    1-800-377-POLK (7655)
    9AM-5:30PM EST Mon-Fri

    It would probably be best to not play them until you can get a replacement driver.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • luv-my-ls50
    luv-my-ls50 Posts: 7
    edited February 2011
    Correction: They seem to be wired in parallel. I've been looking around this forum all night and somebody suggested turning or rotating the driver 180 degrees since it has been in that position since 1993. I did this and hooked it back up. It seemed to help quite a bit. Monday I will try Polk Audio Customer Service Department at 1-800-377-7655 and see if they have a replacement driver. Thanks F1nut
    Warning: I suffer from the delusion that knowledge will solve my problem.
  • quadzilla
    quadzilla Posts: 1,543
    edited February 2011
    Well I replaced the caps in both crossovers and....nothin. So I auditioned each woofer again carefully and it so happens it was woofer, it buzzes. So if anyone has a mw7100 laying around I'll take it from you. I'm also still interested in hearing about upgrades.

    Dan

    I had this same problem, and just found today that the rubber surround has seperated in a few places from the cone. I'm about to post a thread on what adhesive should be used to reattach it. What you're describing sounds a lot like what mine were doing.
    Turntable: Empire 208
    Arm: Rega 300
    Cart: Shelter 501 III
    Phono Pre: Aural Thrills
    Digital: Pioneer DV-79ai
    Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
    Amp: Conrad Johnson Evolution 2000
    Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
    Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified
  • vc69
    vc69 Posts: 2,500
    edited February 2011
    I am interested in the answer to that question as well. I replaced the driver s I had a problem with, but one of them could be repaired. I was thinking that a 3M adhesive for rubber ought to work.

    luv-my-ls50:

    Polk CS sells a replacement that works quite nicely. When you call, mention that you are a Club Polk member for a discount!
    -Kevin
    HT: Philips 52PFL7432D 52" LCD 1080p / Onkyo TX-SR 606 / Oppo BDP-83 SE / Comcast cable. (all HDMI)B&W 801 - Front, Polk CS350 LS - Center, Polk LS90 - Rear
    2 Channel:
    Oppo BDP-83 SE
    Squeezebox Touch
    Muscial Fidelity M1 DAC
    VTL 2.5
    McIntosh 2205 (refurbed)
    B&W 801's
    Transparent IC's