Sealed Sub Help!

Options
BeginnersLuck
BeginnersLuck Posts: 213
edited July 2003 in Subwoofer Hookup & Bass Management
Hey, I just finishied assembling a 122L sealed box for one of my tempest drivers. The adire plans call for 32oz of polyfil. My question is do I need to stick the polyfil to the walls or can I just let it float freely in the box.

Any help is greatly appreciated...
-BL
TWFTPQ
Receiver: Outlaw 1050
Amps: Outlaw M-200 x 3 (Powering Mains and Center)
Mains: RT800i; Center: CS400i; Surrounds: F/X500i
Sub1: 214L Vented Tempest
Sub2: 122L Sealed Tempest
Post edited by BeginnersLuck on
· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

Comments

  • tryrrthg
    tryrrthg Posts: 1,896
    edited July 2003
    Options
    From what I've read is you can do either. I think I just read a thread about the 122L tempest over at HT forum and they told him to just stuff it in there...

    Hope that helps.

    link to the thread
    Sony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • burdette
    burdette Posts: 1,194
    edited July 2003
    Options
    You want to tease the fill so that it is somewhat consistent density... in other words, DON'T just throw a wad in there.

    You'll get different advice on leaving the space behind the driver clear vs. putting fill there. If you were using actual fiberglass, I'd leave the space clear AND put some barrier between the fill and the driver, like stapling in a very open-weave cheesecloth or something.

    If you're using regular poly or something like AcoustiStuf, it isn't as much an issue.

    Depending on the distance from the rear of the driver to the back wall of the cabinet, you may want to actually line the back wall with a 'non teased' piece, at least the 15" x 15" space RIGHT behind the driver.

    If you're up for it, and if you've designed your woofer-mount for easy removal, experiment with different levels of fill. Try empty, just to see how it sounds, then stuff it half full, then completely full... listen each time, and determine the actual level of fill you like best. Or, just use what Adire suggests.. the 32oz... but do tease it so that you have a relatively consistent density throughout.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • BeginnersLuck
    BeginnersLuck Posts: 213
    edited July 2003
    Options
    Thanks guys-

    I guess I'll have to give burdette's suggestion a try...I used t-nuts and machine screws to hold the driver in place so driver removal is no problem at all...

    Thanks for the link tryrrthg...it proved to be helpful in my quest for DIY subwoofer happiness...

    -BL
    TWFTPQ
    Receiver: Outlaw 1050
    Amps: Outlaw M-200 x 3 (Powering Mains and Center)
    Mains: RT800i; Center: CS400i; Surrounds: F/X500i
    Sub1: 214L Vented Tempest
    Sub2: 122L Sealed Tempest
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • burdette
    burdette Posts: 1,194
    edited July 2003
    Options
    I used hurricane nuts and machine bolts for my 12" sub, and I *have* removed the woofer once or twice, but I can't escape the nagging thought that one of those interior nuts is going to come loose if I take the driver out too often. I even used plywood inserts to mount the nuts (rather than putting them in MDF), and used a strong adhesive on the plywood/nut joint.

    That is why I said 'if you want to'... I'd want to if I'd built a sealed sub, but don't think I actually would if I had the same fear of loose nuts that I have now... Um... I'll let that stand. I read and read and READ before I built... I would feel 120% confident using Adire's suggestions.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter