Amplifier Concerns. What will work?
ixNORExi
Posts: 4
I bought : mtx 2 12" subs 400 rms (pair- 200rms each) with amp 250 rms (terminator package)
Problem : Amplifier seems too weak. So i have looked to buy another. This other amp i plan on buying must be good for when i upgrade subwoofers.
2 Options:
1) mtx 1000xd watt mono amp with (1000 watt rms @ 2 ohms) (700Watt rms at 4 ohms)
2) kenwood 1800 watt max with cooling fans and stable to 1 ohm supossibly. (900 watt rms at 2 ohm) (500 watt rms at 4 ohm)
If i buy one of those, can i run either of them off my car battery efficiently if gain is only at 50% max>? (6 cylinder 2005 Mustang. Batt 1 year old). What if i put it to 100% (hypothetically).
Will these amps be pretty universal if i end up buying some 12" l7s (kicker) to them...or any other subwoofers?
Last...Will my 400watt rms subwoofers be safe hooked up to this amp if i never turn the amplifier past 375 watts rms? Any large risks to this thinking?
THANKS A LOT FOR YOUR ANSWERS! i REALLY Appreciate it!
Problem : Amplifier seems too weak. So i have looked to buy another. This other amp i plan on buying must be good for when i upgrade subwoofers.
2 Options:
1) mtx 1000xd watt mono amp with (1000 watt rms @ 2 ohms) (700Watt rms at 4 ohms)
2) kenwood 1800 watt max with cooling fans and stable to 1 ohm supossibly. (900 watt rms at 2 ohm) (500 watt rms at 4 ohm)
If i buy one of those, can i run either of them off my car battery efficiently if gain is only at 50% max>? (6 cylinder 2005 Mustang. Batt 1 year old). What if i put it to 100% (hypothetically).
Will these amps be pretty universal if i end up buying some 12" l7s (kicker) to them...or any other subwoofers?
Last...Will my 400watt rms subwoofers be safe hooked up to this amp if i never turn the amplifier past 375 watts rms? Any large risks to this thinking?
THANKS A LOT FOR YOUR ANSWERS! i REALLY Appreciate it!
Post edited by ixNORExi on
Comments
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Get a 500 watt am, tune it right and keep the gains a little low and have at it.
Something like the Alpine MRP 500. It will be more than enough to make those subwoffer kick your back seat. Plus, it will still be enough to keep an l7 going strong. You really should match subs with amps....I mean, you can get either one and your mtx subwoofers will be fine (gains turned dramatically low) you just have to be careful what you do with the power. If you are thinking about getting those Kicker L7s.....then why not just buy return them and buy them.
If not stay with the alpine and the mtx subwoofers for awhile. You may not even want the L7s anymore.
http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-M500-MRP-M500-Amplifier-1-channel/dp/B0013TQ6FK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1284906413&sr=8-1
Also, it is not what you battery can do. It is what your alternator can crank out. I have a 105 amp alternator and I am fine with 1200 watts. I just upgraded my big three and I got a very efficient amp. Will you need any more than 1000 watts for a good sub woofer setup? Most likely not unless you want to be Mr.5blocksaway.Receiver
Harman Kardon HK 3490
Speakers
Polk Audio Monitor 50s
Subwoofer
Klipsch KSW-100
Cables
AudioQuest Rocket 33s 10ft
AudioQuest Optilink1 2m
AudioQuest Alpha-Snake 25ft Interconnect
AudioQuest HDMI-1 2m
Alienware X51 R2
PS4
Samsung Smart TV 40" 1080p 3D -
Get the mtx mono block the kenwood amp is a ****, you'll cut the power rating in half with the way your voice coils are tied together. Plus when you go to get the L7's you;ll have the power you need to run them. Its always easier to turn down what you have too much of, but hard to turn up what you dont have. You would never turn up an amp 100% gain, after 75% your at max there is no more change. Now as far as batteries. It always help to look into a battery with a low esr so your amp can suck more juice. stay away from the duralast/durabrand/ wal-mart battery and get you an interstate or even look into Optima (not the redtop) Yellow preferably. The problem with Alternators is that even tho they say 130 amps, they dont say that it only charge that at 1500 rpms and higher at idling speed you get half of what your projected total is. Everything is a varuble in car audio. From Batteries, to wire, patch cords, and even weather.
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Get the MTX amp. So long as you use common sense with the volume and use proper gain settings, that amp will work fine. That amp is overkill for those subs, but if youre planning on snagging a pair of L7's later on down the road, that amp will handle them.polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
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