Studio 5B, Tweeter problem :/

Azazel90x
Azazel90x Posts: 9
edited September 2010 in Vintage Speakers
I bought a pair of monitor 5B's off Craigslist over a year ago for 30 bucks, and they worked great, They were exactly what I was looking for, Needless to say, A few weeks ago, I accidentally blew a tweeter, by playing a yodeling song much too loud to annoy my brother lol, So I got on the internet, Found club polk, and tracked down a SL-2000 tweeter, and promptly ordered it because I loved my speakers so, I got it in, Installed it, but nothing, I tried putting in the the other Monitor with the working tweeter, and it worked, but it wouldnt work in the other one, So im assuming its a circuit problem? I have no idea what couldve went bad :/ Help? Thanks in Advance!
Post edited by Azazel90x on
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Comments

  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited September 2010
    Bad cap or resistor. Pull the binding post cup and look for anything burnt or black in appearance.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • Azazel90x
    Azazel90x Posts: 9
    edited September 2010
    Nst47l.jpg

    Click for Extra Large pic, That's what I see, Nothing black or burnt :/
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited September 2010
    If I were to take a guess, the 12uf cap probably went bad. 20+ year old electrolytic caps are prone to failure.

    I would jump the 12uf cap and resistor, one at a time, and at VERY low volume see if the tweeter works.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,381
    edited September 2010
    I assume you don't have fuses on the back. I believe the 5B had Polyswitches to protect the tweeters. These are known to go bad. I don't see it on the board but did some have it in underneath in the terminal cup.
    Stan
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
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  • Azazel90x
    Azazel90x Posts: 9
    edited September 2010
    Face wrote: »
    If I were to take a guess, the 12uf cap probably went bad. 20+ year old electrolytic caps are prone to failure.

    I would jump the 12uf cap and resistor, one at a time, and at VERY low volume see if the tweeter works.

    When you say jump...What exactly do you mean?
    skrol wrote: »
    I assume you don't have fuses on the back. I believe the 5B had Polyswitches to protect the tweeters. These are known to go bad. I don't see it on the board but did some have it in underneath in the terminal cup.
    Stan

    There is one fuse on the back, where the connections to the amp go, but it seems fine to me...I can switch it out with the good one and try that?
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  • Azazel90x
    Azazel90x Posts: 9
    edited September 2010
    Turns out it was the fuse...lol, I didnt even suspect it because the woofer was still working :/

    Thanks Skrol and Face for your help :D
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  • kcoc321
    kcoc321 Posts: 1,788
    edited September 2010
    Glad you got fixed up. FYI: the fuse is just on the tweeter circuit.
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited September 2010
    Doh, well I'm glad you got it working without having to perform surgery.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • Polkersince85
    Polkersince85 Posts: 2,883
    edited September 2010
    Make sure you use a fast blow fuse of the same rating or you will need that new tweeter for sure.
    >
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    >This message has been scanned by the NSA and found to be free of harmful intent.<
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  • HB27
    HB27 Posts: 1,518
    edited September 2010
    You're not the first person to make the assumption the fuse protected the whole speaker.
    Glad it was a simple fix. And make sure it's a fast blow.
    Welcome btw.
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  • Azazel90x
    Azazel90x Posts: 9
    edited September 2010
    Got the fast blow fuses, The one that blew was a 1.5 amp, 250V, I couldnt find any 1.5amp, but im using a 1amp fuse, is that a bit of a risk or should it be fine?
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited September 2010
    1 amp is actually what belongs in there.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • Azazel90x
    Azazel90x Posts: 9
    edited September 2010
    ben62670 wrote: »
    1 amp is actually what belongs in there.

    Oh, Good lol, the guy i bought it from had both of them with 1.5 amp fuses
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