Polk Monitor 10A Mods
SolidSqual
Posts: 5,218
Hey Guys,
I picked up the Monitor 10As from Tom and they are in fantastic shape, but I'm ready to upgrade the 20 plus year old crossover and replace the binding posts. Is there anything else I should consider replacing? Perhaps the tweeter or drivers?
Also with respect to the binding posts, may I use any of Dayton's selection on Parts Express? Which schematic from this LINK applies to the Monitor 10A? Finally, how do you read a schematic so I can figure out what new caps I should purchase from Parts Express. Can someone just tell me which Caps to buy?
Thanks for the education,
Mike
I picked up the Monitor 10As from Tom and they are in fantastic shape, but I'm ready to upgrade the 20 plus year old crossover and replace the binding posts. Is there anything else I should consider replacing? Perhaps the tweeter or drivers?
Also with respect to the binding posts, may I use any of Dayton's selection on Parts Express? Which schematic from this LINK applies to the Monitor 10A? Finally, how do you read a schematic so I can figure out what new caps I should purchase from Parts Express. Can someone just tell me which Caps to buy?
Thanks for the education,
Mike
Post edited by SolidSqual on
Comments
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I'd recommend listening to them as they are for a little bit before jumping into upgrades. I think you'll appreciate them more.
Keep the tweets. I love the Peerless and there's not a better "drop in" replacement. You'd need to buy the tweeters, install different crossover values and to modify the cabinets to put in something that may or may not be as good.
Vampire or Cardas are often recommended for the binding posts. I used Vampire 1.5 hex.
http://soniccraft.com/products/connections/bindingpost.htm
As far as caps, as with anything...it comes down to $$. Daytons or probably anything you put in would be an improvement. I went with a higher quality cap (sonicap) for the highs, then used Solens from Parts Ex to keep cost a bit more in check. -
anton.chigurh wrote: »I'd recommend listening to them as they are for a little bit before jumping into upgrades. I think you'll appreciate them more.
Keep the tweets. I love the Peerless and there's not a better "drop in" replacement. You'd need to buy the tweeters, install different crossover values and to modify the cabinets to put in something that may or may not be as good.
Vampire or Cardas are often recommended for the binding posts. I used Vampire 1.5 hex.
http://soniccraft.com/products/connections/bindingpost.htm
As far as caps, as with anything...it comes down to $$. Daytons or probably anything you put in would be an improvement. I went with a higher quality cap (sonicap) for the highs, then used Solens from Parts Ex to keep cost a bit more in check.
Well actually, this is my second pair of Monitor 10s. A buddy gave me a pair a few weeks ago. I know the sound fairly well by now. What I am trying to do is gain some knowledge on speaker modding so I can raise my skill to the level needed to accomplish a DIY project I am working on.
Mike -
I used this.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53379&highlight=monitor+crossover
I used Vampire 1.5 hex binding posts, put dayton caps in to save money but put sonicaps in for the highs later. Mills resistors. Hot glued all the cabinet joints, mortite , and bought the rings from Larry. I have'nt put them in yet though. The mods were quite easy to do thanks to all the help available on here. I had to buy a soldering iron and everything else I needed .....I had never touched a soldering iron in my life! lol good luck
looking at the schematic, I think you need two 12uf caps and one 34uf cap , a 2.5 ohm resistor and a 2.7ohm resistor. but you should take a crossover out and look at what you have before ordering. -
Don't think there's a replacement for the peerless tweeter. Might look at monitor 10's with sl2000's or sl2500, that way you can get the rdo-198/194's.
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I don't mind the tweeter. Thanks for the info. More or less, I want to buy some stock tweeters and woofers from polk and keep them on hand. The cabinets are perfectly air tight. When I push in the radiator the two woofers come out and don't settle back down until I release the radiator. What risk do I run damaging the cabinet seal by replacing the woofers? One of them has a dented dust cap but still sounds fine.
I guess my intent here is to restore the drivers to factory new condition while upgrading the crossover. -
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59619
Does this thread apply to my speakers? Sorry for the lame questions. I'm new to this stuff. -
Is this what I need? Thanks F1Nut!
Total needed for both crossovers:
(4) 12uF Sonicap is a good choice for these.
(2) 34uF Either Sonicap (you'll have to run two in parallel as the largest they sell is 30uF) or go with something like Solen, who should have a 34uF.
(2) 2.5 ohm 1% tolerance (5 or 12 watt, your choice) Mills Wire-wound.
(2) 2.7 ohm 1% tolerance (5 or 12 watt, your choice) Mills Wire-wound.
The thing wrapped in copper wire is the inductor. Leave it alone.
The film caps suggested above are far superior to the stock caps, but be forewarned, they are much larger than stock, so plan for that. -
SolidSqual wrote: »I don't mind the tweeter. Thanks for the info. More or less, I want to buy some stock tweeters and woofers from polk and keep them on hand. The cabinets are perfectly air tight. When I push in the radiator the two woofers come out and don't settle back down until I release the radiator. What risk do I run damaging the cabinet seal by replacing the woofers? One of them has a dented dust cap but still sounds fine.
I guess my intent here is to restore the drivers to factory new condition while upgrading the crossover.
I got some stock mw's for you. Give me a call. -
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66519&highlight=Monitor+solen+caps
Oooh, I'm saving this thread too. -
I got some stock mw's for you. Give me a call.
Awesome, thanks. I will later tonight. -
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I would pull the crossover and read the values off the components inside before ordering anything.
Then call up Sonic Craft and order Sonic Caps for the highs and lows, Mills resistors, and Cardas or Vampire binding posts."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
I would pull the crossover and read the values off the components inside before ordering anything.
Then call up Sonic Craft and order Sonic Caps for the highs and lows, Mills resistors, and Cardas or Vampire binding posts.
Yeah, that's the plan for later today.
