Alternator suggestions

JoshParsons84
JoshParsons84 Posts: 565
edited September 2010 in The Clubhouse
I need some suggestions on where to get a higher performance alternator for my 98 Grand Prix GTP thats gonna keep up with my stereo. Stock is 105 amp and I get it from NAPA for like $150 bucks with a lifetime guarantee. I'm thinking that I'll more than likely go through them because of the lifetime but I'd like to get more power than stock especially with my stereo. I gave American Power a call and they're gonna charge me $400 freakin' bucks for a 200 amp!!! Are you kiddin' me? I laughed over the phone like somebody told me a funny joke. Can anybody give me any ideas of a lil bit more amperage alternator for my car?
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  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited September 2010
    That's about right for a 200 amp. The "lifetime" warranty on the NAPA doesn't mean crap when you end up replacing it every year. Also, you need to know what RPM that output is developed at.

    There's a place called Boyle Future Technology in CA that rebuilds your alternator for less than $200 & they can almost double your stock output (depending on model). They will fix it to develop max at idle if you want instead of 5000 rpm.....Google them~
    TNRabbit
    NO Polk Audio Equipment :eek:
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  • JoshParsons84
    JoshParsons84 Posts: 565
    edited September 2010
    OK rebuilding mine for me is out of the question as my Grand Prix is my only daily driver :( but thanx for the suggestion. OK I've done a lil research and found a couple places. I found this Powermaster from Jegs 150 amp for $264.99 or I also found this one from Knu Konceptz 160 amp for $225
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  • JoshParsons84
    JoshParsons84 Posts: 565
    edited September 2010
    Anybody have any feedback about the Alternator from Knu Konceptz?
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  • JimKellyfan
    JimKellyfan Posts: 696
    edited September 2010
    I would get some capacitors in place first off.
    Next, there usually is a local place that rebuilds them cheaply. Ask said company how big you can go.
    Then, if you have room, you can also go to a dual battery set up too.
    But, pound for pound, going to the biggest alternator is good, but so is capacitor selection and install.
    Hope this helps.
    Onkyo TX-NR636
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  • JimKellyfan
    JimKellyfan Posts: 696
    edited September 2010
    rebuilds them cheaply, actually referring to the alternator
    Onkyo TX-NR636
    Main - polkaudio Monitor 60's
    Center - polkaudio CSI A6
    Sub - polkaudio PSW10
    Sub2 - polkaudio PSW505
    Surrounds - polkaudio Monitor 40 series II
    Front Height - polkaudio Monitor 40's
    Audio Outdoors
    Pioneer VSX 406 - polkaudio Atrium 5
    Shed
    Sony junker str-dn2010 with Sony bookshelf floor models and polkaudio R150's
    Shed 2
    Nakamichi soundbar
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  • arun1963
    arun1963 Posts: 1,797
    edited September 2010
    JimKellyfan wrote: »
    I would get some capacitors in place first off.

    Caps are useless. A dual battery makes better sense.
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  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited September 2010
    arun1963 wrote: »
    Caps are useless. A dual battery makes better sense.

    I wouldn't say caps are useless as they can sure up a weakness in the power supply.

    But I would go dual battery. Have done this is almost all of my vehicles when they have any sort of upgraded stereo. Helps immensely. Nut I also use at least one cap to sure it all up. Helps keep amps solid and lessens the chance of a spike to the system.
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  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited September 2010
    Caps are batteries are loads, not sources. I don't listen to my system with the engine off.

    Get the alternator first, then a cap.
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  • Sherardp
    Sherardp Posts: 8,038
    edited September 2010
    I would do caps, battery and the BIG 3 with 0 guage wire. I've never had a problem with any system install once I did caps and the Big 3.
    Shoot the jumper.....................BALLIN.............!!!!!

    Home Theater Pics in the Showcase :cool:

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showcase/view.php?userid=73580
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  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited September 2010
    arun1963 wrote: »
    Caps are useless. A dual battery makes better sense.

    Caps, if not totally useless, ARE a terrible waste of money. Even a HUGE cap when hit with a large big bass thump will deplete in less than a second, THEN have to be recharged. Dual battery and/or high output alternator is the way to go.
    TNRabbit
    NO Polk Audio Equipment :eek:
    Sunfire TG-IV
    Ashly 1001 Active Crossover
    Rane PEQ-15 Parametric Equalizers x 2
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature Seven
    Carver AL-III Speakers
    Klipsch RT-12d Subwoofer
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  • Grimster74
    Grimster74 Posts: 2,573
    edited September 2010
    If ya decide to go the multiple battery route which is what I did when competing I had 4 die hard golds with stock alternator, no caps and I was using a Orion MBR-70, (multiple battery regulator) and I would play mine at parties for countless hours wide open, jump in it hit the key and it fired up. Not sure if Orion still makes them but I still have mine in excellent condition if your interested.
    Money Talks, Mine says Goodbye Rob!!!!
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  • JoshParsons84
    JoshParsons84 Posts: 565
    edited September 2010
    Well I'm re-doing my entire stereo and I'm starting with a high-output alternator first. In the end I think I'm gonna end up with 3 possibly 4 amps and a 200 amp alternator prolly wouldn't hurt and then I'm gonna do the big also and then move on from there. I'm doing everything in baby steps. Right now I've got a pretty nice Optima Yellow-Top battery but if my stereo gets to the point of where I want it then I'm a get me a dry cell battery also - maybe a Stinger. But for now I'm gonna suck it up and dish out $400 for the alternator now that I need one anyways.

    Now on to the big 3...exactly which wires am I replacing?
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  • Sherardp
    Sherardp Posts: 8,038
    edited September 2010
    See the article below for info, it works and is well worth the time to do.

    http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1
    Shoot the jumper.....................BALLIN.............!!!!!

    Home Theater Pics in the Showcase :cool:

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showcase/view.php?userid=73580
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  • JimKellyfan
    JimKellyfan Posts: 696
    edited September 2010
    I have used caps in TV repair, not stereos. So, really, a 2nd battery ( if added weight is ok ) would be a better bet, also with the muscled up alternator. But as far as batteries go, spiral cell technology is old hat ( Optima, etc ). I would only recommend the Sears Platinum. For space issues, maybe go with a Platinum for the main, and a Mazda Miata gell battery for the 2nd. If it were me, I would get 2 Platinums. Careful, you will pay for it ( around 200 each ), but they are the best on the market right now.
    Before knocking on the battery, I would read up, both on spiral cell, and the platinum, but once you go plat, you won"t go back. They have a reserve capacity ( 135 minutes ) to them and high CCA, plus long free replacements, 4 years, I believe.
    Here's a link:
    http://www.sears.com/shc/s/s_10153_12605_Automotive_Batteries+%26+Chargers_Automotive+Batteries?sbv=DieHard&sbf=Brand&storeId=10153&catalogId=12605&expCheckout=&orderEmail=&langId=
    Onkyo TX-NR636
    Main - polkaudio Monitor 60's
    Center - polkaudio CSI A6
    Sub - polkaudio PSW10
    Sub2 - polkaudio PSW505
    Surrounds - polkaudio Monitor 40 series II
    Front Height - polkaudio Monitor 40's
    Audio Outdoors
    Pioneer VSX 406 - polkaudio Atrium 5
    Shed
    Sony junker str-dn2010 with Sony bookshelf floor models and polkaudio R150's
    Shed 2
    Nakamichi soundbar
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  • JimKellyfan
    JimKellyfan Posts: 696
    edited September 2010
    Sherardp wrote: »
    See the article below for info, it works and is well worth the time to do.

    http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~73496~PN~1

    Great article and necessary. One of the first things to do in any diagnostic is to ensure good connections. You may also need to sure up existing connections and grounds and / or add grounding blocks throughout the vehicle. I would have factory manual, just in case any issues arise in the future, so as to necessitate easy location of existing connectors and grounds in any given circuit. Ebay, and top sellers usually have manuals for sale on the cheap.
    Good luck.
    Onkyo TX-NR636
    Main - polkaudio Monitor 60's
    Center - polkaudio CSI A6
    Sub - polkaudio PSW10
    Sub2 - polkaudio PSW505
    Surrounds - polkaudio Monitor 40 series II
    Front Height - polkaudio Monitor 40's
    Audio Outdoors
    Pioneer VSX 406 - polkaudio Atrium 5
    Shed
    Sony junker str-dn2010 with Sony bookshelf floor models and polkaudio R150's
    Shed 2
    Nakamichi soundbar
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  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited September 2010
    1) He mentioned he changed the battery in his car. I imagine he checks his connections.

    2) he wants to upgrade for equipment further down the line. If you told me you were gonna put an arc welder in the back of your truck, I'd be telling you to get an alternator first, then a second battery if you can afford it.

    3) He indicated he's moving on to the big 3 with the alternator purchase complete.

    Why are we giving the man troubleshooting type advice when he's looking for our help to save coin on an alternator.

    The answer is: rebuilt alt.
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