2.3TL Air Leaks

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Comments

  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited September 2010
    Good point,, especially if you are gonna' install Larry's rings,, and dynamat,,etc,, there's no excuse,, since the wiring schematics are posted on this site and the help/support of others here.Good luck and keep us posted.:)

    You said a mouthful Georgie boy!!! I was lucky with my 1.2TLs they were mint when I bought them and everything was just perfect wiring and all.

    It's really is a bummer that some get out of phase wiring, incorrect wiring etc!
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited September 2010
    thejck wrote: »
    My drivers do that. They push out then withing a second return halfway then when i let go of the passive they return all the way. Is that normal?

    Sounds okay but I always went by the 3 to 4 second return of the MW WITH the PR still pressed in.
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited September 2010
    RCFGuitars wrote: »
    I've owned 3 pairs of SDA's, and every pair, including my current 2.3tl's had one or more drivers wired out of phase.

    WOW!!! That would drive me crazy!
  • RCFGuitars
    RCFGuitars Posts: 159
    edited September 2010
    WOW!!! That would drive me crazy!

    I was the original owner of my 2A's. They were serviced at a Polk authorized center after about 10 years, and they wired both mid's out of phase. I also had a pair of SDA1's, I think B's, that had one mid in each cabinet backwards. And then, about a year ago, when I started modding my 2.3tl's, I discovered that the middle 2 stereo drivers in the left speaker were out of phase. It's definitely worth the time to make sure they are correct. Otherwise, anything else you do could be a waste of time.
    Primary System
    Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL (RDO198,Sonicap/Dayton/Mills,CardasCCGR,Mye Spikes,DynamatX,Driver Rings,Ben's IC,Bi-Wired)
    Polk Audio CSiA4 x2 (C)
    Polk Audio FXiA6 (S)
    Polk Audio RTiA3 (RS)
    Polk Audio FXiA4 (FX)
    Epik Sentinel x2
    Yamaha RX-V3900
    Rotel RB-1090
    Rotel RMB-1095
    NAD C565 BEE
    Technics/KAB SL-1210M5G w/ Denon DL-160
    Parasound Halo P7
    OPPO BDP-83
    Panasonic TC-P65V10 65" Plasma
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,569
    edited September 2010
    jim 249 wrote: »
    When releasing the passive make sure the smaller drivers are returning to their rest positions and not being sucked in by the returning passive. As the passive is pushed in it will push the smaller drivers out, likewise when the passive is released it will pull the small drivers in. Looking at the above quote mine would fall into the same results.

    Huh?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,569
    edited September 2010
    Sounds okay but I always went by the 3 to 4 second return of the MW WITH the PR still pressed in.

    Return to what, full rest or halfway?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited September 2010
    F1nut wrote: »
    Return to what, full rest or halfway?

    Full rest of course!

    Why I outta . . . you knew what I was talking about Curly!:p
  • jim 249
    jim 249 Posts: 347
    edited September 2010
    Huh?

    When it is said half way on the return, it sounds like to me they are returning to full rest, so when you release the passive, it will draw the mids into the cabinet giving the illusion of looking like they are returning to full rest.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,569
    edited September 2010
    jim 249 wrote: »
    When it is said half way on the return, it sounds like to me they are returning to full rest, so when you release the passive, it will draw the mids into the cabinet giving the illusion of looking like they are returning to full rest.

    I see. No, they do not return to full rest until the PR is released at which time the drivers will "suck in" past full rest by the very slightest amount, so slight that one might miss it. They then return to full rest.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited September 2010
    Full rest of course!

    Why I outta . . . you knew what I was talking about Curly!:p

    Let make this a little clearer as my definition of "full rest" doesn't seem to coincide with what Jesse was asking.

    By full rest I mean the MWs stop backing in after 3 or so seconds. They DO NOT go all the way back in until I release the pressure from the PR.
  • TrashyTrucker
    TrashyTrucker Posts: 225
    edited September 2010
    Hey all,
    I know this is a very old post but after reading this post I now have a question. when I just did my mods the other day,I noticed something very odd. Since I never had my 3.1's totally apart before let me say this, I thought positive (black) goes to positive? And white is negative? Well let me set the stage... I have 4 midwoofers just like the big boys but only 1 tweeter and 1 array.
    Counting the top MW as 1 and so on. When I get down to 3 it has a "white" wire attached to the black wires going back up to #2. That same white wire also goes to the white side "negative" on MW 2! Plus the main black wire coming from
    the XO is feeding the #2 MW and 1 MW. However I forget what is feeding 4 for right now. But am real sure about the rest.
    If I am correct in assuming this, I have something wierd going on?
    Or is this correct? Again, #3 has a black and white. but in that harness a (white wire) is laced into the black wire(s) on #3 going up to white side of #2. Black side of 2 (negative)is being fed by the XO black (negative).
    So does #2 have two positives now? how could this be?
    I checked both Right and Left speakers for reference to one another and they are BOTH wired the same way!
    Any suggestions from you hardcore polkies? Riccardo? Headrott?

    regards,
    Matt
    Integra DTR 50.2 used as a preamp
    Rotel RCD 1520 cdp
    AudioQuest Jaguar 72v dbs ic's
    AudioQuest type 8 wire
    biamped to:
    2-Hafler 9500 trans nova's
    AudioQuest NRG-3 power cable's
    dedicated AC line for
    Tesla Plex 20a duplex receptacle
    Panamax Max 7500 pro surge/line conditioner
    SDA SRS 3.1 TL's modded...
    spikes, rdo's, rings, dynamat, sonicaps, mills & aeon
    Panasonic Viera G20 50" plasma


    ...SDA's are just like candy for your ears...
  • TrashyTrucker
    TrashyTrucker Posts: 225
    edited September 2010
    ....
    Integra DTR 50.2 used as a preamp
    Rotel RCD 1520 cdp
    AudioQuest Jaguar 72v dbs ic's
    AudioQuest type 8 wire
    biamped to:
    2-Hafler 9500 trans nova's
    AudioQuest NRG-3 power cable's
    dedicated AC line for
    Tesla Plex 20a duplex receptacle
    Panamax Max 7500 pro surge/line conditioner
    SDA SRS 3.1 TL's modded...
    spikes, rdo's, rings, dynamat, sonicaps, mills & aeon
    Panasonic Viera G20 50" plasma


    ...SDA's are just like candy for your ears...
  • TrashyTrucker
    TrashyTrucker Posts: 225
    edited September 2010
    Hey guys,
    I fixed it. I reversed the screw up took. Can you believe I have been listening to just two MW's in each side all these years? Wow it really rocks now. However now my cd player skips due to the increased bass! Oh well. Sorry for so many posts.

    Matt:D
    Integra DTR 50.2 used as a preamp
    Rotel RCD 1520 cdp
    AudioQuest Jaguar 72v dbs ic's
    AudioQuest type 8 wire
    biamped to:
    2-Hafler 9500 trans nova's
    AudioQuest NRG-3 power cable's
    dedicated AC line for
    Tesla Plex 20a duplex receptacle
    Panamax Max 7500 pro surge/line conditioner
    SDA SRS 3.1 TL's modded...
    spikes, rdo's, rings, dynamat, sonicaps, mills & aeon
    Panasonic Viera G20 50" plasma


    ...SDA's are just like candy for your ears...
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,569
    edited September 2010
    Hey all,
    I know this is a very old post but after reading this post I now have a question. when I just did my mods the other day,I noticed something very odd. Since I never had my 3.1's totally apart before let me say this, I thought positive (black) goes to positive? And white is negative? Well let me set the stage... I have 4 midwoofers just like the big boys but only 1 tweeter and 1 array.
    Counting the top MW as 1 and so on. When I get down to 3 it has a "white" wire attached to the black wires going back up to #2. That same white wire also goes to the white side "negative" on MW 2! Plus the main black wire coming from
    the XO is feeding the #2 MW and 1 MW. However I forget what is feeding 4 for right now. But am real sure about the rest.
    If I am correct in assuming this, I have something wierd going on?
    Or is this correct? Again, #3 has a black and white. but in that harness a (white wire) is laced into the black wire(s) on #3 going up to white side of #2. Black side of 2 (negative)is being fed by the XO black (negative).
    So does #2 have two positives now? how could this be?
    I checked both Right and Left speakers for reference to one another and they are BOTH wired the same way!
    Any suggestions from you hardcore polkies? Riccardo? Headrott?

    regards,
    Matt

    Since both are wired the same, that should tell you that the wiring is correct.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,569
    edited September 2010
    Hey guys,
    I fixed it. I reversed the screw up took. Can you believe I have been listening to just two MW's in each side all these years? Wow it really rocks now. However now my cd player skips due to the increased bass! Oh well. Sorry for so many posts.

    Matt:D

    Are you saying that you changed the wiring?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • TrashyTrucker
    TrashyTrucker Posts: 225
    edited September 2010
    F1nut wrote: »
    Are you saying that you changed the wiring?

    Jesse,

    Im saying I had a momentary lapse of reason... I put the wiring back to its original state as close to as I could. The only change that is different in the
    original harness is now a break in the black wire. I twisted it back together
    and soldered them together (cardas) and shrink wrapped it.
    That was a very unwise decision on my part, but I had to tinker to learn that was NOT the right thing to do! LOL
    Thanks again for ALL your support. I STILL need to know about the spikes.
    Grant (mye sound) told me that the 1/4-20 will snap off.
    What would you do? :confused:


    regards,
    Matt:D
    Integra DTR 50.2 used as a preamp
    Rotel RCD 1520 cdp
    AudioQuest Jaguar 72v dbs ic's
    AudioQuest type 8 wire
    biamped to:
    2-Hafler 9500 trans nova's
    AudioQuest NRG-3 power cable's
    dedicated AC line for
    Tesla Plex 20a duplex receptacle
    Panamax Max 7500 pro surge/line conditioner
    SDA SRS 3.1 TL's modded...
    spikes, rdo's, rings, dynamat, sonicaps, mills & aeon
    Panasonic Viera G20 50" plasma


    ...SDA's are just like candy for your ears...
  • doramider7
    doramider7 Posts: 1
    edited September 2010
    mole' wrote: »
    i have NO bass from my 2.3TL's as well. i did the test and they seem to pass.

    Check your receivers' output settings and check large or small. You should have tremendous bass.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,569
    edited September 2010
    Grant (mye sound) told me that the 1/4-20 will snap off.

    He offers that thread pattern on one spike size only, so that's the one you should order.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited September 2010
    Jesse,

    Im saying I had a momentary lapse of reason... I put the wiring back to its original state as close to as I could. The only change that is different in the
    original harness is now a break in the black wire. I twisted it back together
    and soldered them together (cardas) and shrink wrapped it.
    That was a very unwise decision on my part, but I had to tinker to learn that was NOT the right thing to do! LOL
    Thanks again for ALL your support. I STILL need to know about the spikes.
    Grant (mye sound) told me that the 1/4-20 will snap off.
    What would you do? :confused:


    regards,
    Matt:D


    Hey Matt, I have the middle sized spikes from Grant (they are no longer available I believe) on my 1.2TLs and have had no problems at all with them and they are on top of a rug. Even when I walk them (you know the ole SDA dance) no problems.

    They only way I could see a problem with the 1/4-20s is if they are not completely screwed in.