Deoxit worked great! But the sound changed?

fishbones
fishbones Posts: 947
edited September 2010 in Electronics
Well, I've been debating on whether to post this, because some might attack me, or call me nuts, but as an audiophile desiring to come to a logical conclusion, not illogical delusion, I need to know if there is any reality to it?

I recently treated my 15-yr-old Cary tube preamp to some Deoxit on its scratchy volume pots. Deoxit also recommended using the Deoxit Gold to protect the components from future oxidation, so I did. For the heck of it, I also treated the tube sockets and pegs on the 3 tubes that were in it.

Not only did it completely cure the scratchiness of the volume controls and switches, but it's been a few weeks.....and the tube sizzling and popping noises that would break through intermittently disappeared!

But......As soon as I fired it up, it sounded veiled? :eek: Like I threw towels over the tweeters. For the record, I changed absolutely nothing in the chain. And the preamp had been in full service for the last couple months, so it wasn't anything to do with distant memory or break-in. I ran the same CD (one that I'm very familiar with) that I ran 30 minutes before the operation. So, I was like....WTH? Does this liquid solution have to burn-in like components? Did it screw up the sound?

I had it running a couple hours before the treatment. And, I had it running (doing critical listening tests) for a couple hours afterwards - I didn't notice it get any better. Now (after a couple weeks) I don't know if the sound coming out of my system is a new sound I've gotten used to, or it burnt-in, and the sound slowly opened back up?

So I wondered about my Polk friends......have any of you had a similar experience with either chemical?

My money, if there is an issue....would be on the GOLD, not the DN5 cleaner.
..... ><////(*>
Post edited by fishbones on

Comments

  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,891
    edited September 2010
    I think there is a possibility that something got messed up. I have always been told that components need to be stone cold before using something like Deoxit on them and that several hours need to pass before even plugging it back in. I always wait 24 hours before using any equipment that has been cleaned.


    Good luck figuring it out.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2800 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson


    How many flies need to be buzzing a dead horse before you guys stop beating it?
  • Outfitter03
    Outfitter03 Posts: 563
    edited September 2010
    Is the wait time to allow most of the solvent or suspension fluid to evaporate?
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,891
    edited September 2010
    That is my thought, I just have a very hard time with liquids of any kind being used on my gear without proper time to dry.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2800 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson


    How many flies need to be buzzing a dead horse before you guys stop beating it?
  • Outfitter03
    Outfitter03 Posts: 563
    edited September 2010
    That makes sense to me. Especially if using any of the spray products. Do you leave your connections open for a period of time such as RCA connectors or just do the wait time for the reassembled equipment before applying power?
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,891
    edited September 2010
    That makes sense to me. Especially if using any of the spray products. Do you leave your connections open for a period of time such as RCA connectors or just do the wait time for the reassembled equipment before applying power?

    I plug nothing in at all until I am 110% certain there is no moisture of any kind left. The same goes for new gear going in my system. I will not plug gear in until it is up to ambient room temperature. I live in Indiana and sometimes thinks arrive home that are cold enough to serve as ice cubes until they warm up.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2800 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson


    How many flies need to be buzzing a dead horse before you guys stop beating it?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,701
    edited September 2010
    Either you didn't wait until the DeOxit had evaporated and damaged something in the circuits or the way it sounds now is actually the way it's suppose to sound now that all the oxidation is gone.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,576
    edited September 2010
    I believe that Cali-Lube would have been a better choice for a volume pot.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited September 2010
    DeOxit makes fader lube as well; I was told that would be a better alternative for pots than the D/O GOLD.
    TNRabbit
    NO Polk Audio Equipment :eek:
    Sunfire TG-IV
    Ashly 1001 Active Crossover
    Rane PEQ-15 Parametric Equalizers x 2
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature Seven
    Carver AL-III Speakers
    Klipsch RT-12d Subwoofer
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited September 2010
    F1nut wrote: »
    Either you didn't wait until the DeOxit had evaporated and damaged something in the circuits or the way it sounds now is actually the way it's suppose to sound now that all the oxidation is gone.

    This sound like good advice. I would go a step further and break and make all the connections you treated with the De Oxit several times and then finally reseat them firmly. Try a warm up period and then play some music. This may help.
  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,891
    edited September 2010
    F1nut wrote: »
    Either you didn't wait until the DeOxit had evaporated and damaged something...


    Would spraying deoxit while the component was still warm(unplugged) potentially cause harm?
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2800 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson


    How many flies need to be buzzing a dead horse before you guys stop beating it?
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,959
    edited September 2010
    Not in my experience.

    F1nut nailed what I was gonna say.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,421
    edited September 2010
    I use De-Oxit quite frequently to clean tube PINs, RCA ends, banana plugs, IEC prongs, female power cord recepticles and I always feel I hear an improvement or at worst no change, but certainly not worse.

    One thing I noticed recently is how oxidized the female power cord ends get over time. I used 4-5 cotton tipped swabs that came out very black with oxidation before I got a clean one on every single power cord I own.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Puritan Audio PSM136 Pwr Condtioner & Classic PC's | Legend L600 | Roon Nucleus 1 w/LPS - Tubes add soul!
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,959
    edited September 2010
    fishbones wrote:
    As soon as I fired it up, it sounded veiled? :eek: Like I threw towels over the tweeters.
    You may have another issue somewhere else in the chain that just so happened to be coincidental with your cleaning.

    I would check all wiring leading up to the tweeters and if you find nothing wrong, verify that both tweeters are working. If that isn't the case, check your mid drivers next and everything associated with them. If that doesn't work, you can do a complete dismantling of the entire system [everything] from the first power cord to the speaker terminals. Wait a couple of minutes and then reassemble everything.

    If you have other components you can swap out one at a time, try that to isolate where or which component may be compromised if none of the aforementioned works.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 7,486
    edited September 2010
    Even though Deoxit is recommended to clean volume, balance pots, etc., I have seen some manufacturers that advice not to use any chemicals on their pots. Perhaps the film surface on some attenuators is more susceptible to damage. Have you called Cary to ask if Deoxit is OK with their Vol Pot?

    Also, when you cleaned the pot, did you flush it good (like excess pouring out the bottom) and work it back and forth 50+ times? There is an art to using the D5 spray.
  • fishbones
    fishbones Posts: 947
    edited September 2010
    Thanks for the feedback, there is some great info here!

    NooshinJohn,
    Because Deoxit's directions say: unplug, treat, plug back in. And, because I thought it would be a non-conductive solvent designed for electronics - I didn't think to wait for things to evaporate....but that is certainly something I'll do in the future.

    F1,
    I certainly hope nothing bad happened to my circuits, but that's a thought? I have my doubts only because I would expect bigger, or multiple changes, like: major sound changes (that even an outsider could tell), noises, weak power, or smoke....none of those though have occured. But, the thought on it being closer to what it is supposed to sound like, is an interesting thought? I could see high frequency grain being mistaken for air, or bloom.

    Treitz,
    All drivers are working as they should be.

    BillBill,
    No, I did not flush them as thoroughly as you mention for fear of getting it all over other stuff. Maybe that could be something? Maybe all I did was move the dirt somewhere else in the controls?
    Your other thought scares me :eek:! I hope I didn't delaminate something by assuming the product was safe because of all the recommendations for it?
    I'll give the techs at Cary a call and see what they say, and let you guys know.
    ..... ><////(*>
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 7,486
    edited September 2010
    fishbones wrote: »

    BillBill,
    No, I did not flush them as thoroughly as you mention for fear of getting it all over other stuff. Maybe that could be something? Maybe all I did was move the dirt somewhere else in the controls?
    Your other thought scares me :eek:! I hope I didn't delaminate something by assuming the product was safe because of all the recommendations for it?
    I'll give the techs at Cary a call and see what they say, and let you guys know.


    I usually put a paper towel down underneath the pot before flushing. Even if some gets on the boards, it is harmless once it dries. I would go back and clean it more thoroughly, let it dry for a couple hours, then test it again.
  • fishbones
    fishbones Posts: 947
    edited September 2010
    I just got off the phone with a tech at Cary. He said that any of their pots should be fine to use a cleaner on. He wasn't sure what kind I had. Apparently they've used some carbon ones, wire wound and maybe one other. He also wasn't familiar with Deoxit (he told me they usually use inexpensive deflexer solvents). His thought was what some of you are saying on here, and what I think would be best - try to reclean the pot contacts with a Qtip if you can get inside it, if not, then just flush them thoroughly (like BillBillw said).

    Do you guys think I should try a different solvent? (I'm definitely not going to use the GOLD on it, to be safe).

    Doro had a recommendation which sounds good. Anyone else?
    ..... ><////(*>
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited September 2010
    Yes, avoid Gold for switches/pots. Pick up some fader lube for your pots.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 7,486
    edited September 2010
    I wouldn't worry about getting any other product. Just use the D5 alone on the pot. I wouldn't try to disassemble it. Just find a hole and spray in liberally using the little straw that came with it.
  • HB27
    HB27 Posts: 1,518
    edited September 2010
    I'd reclean the pots and contacts with a non residue cleaner, let dry, and start over.
    Once the unit is cleaned good with the non residue cleaner let dry thoroughly again.
    Then a VERY LIGHT shot of Deoxit where necessary.
    I use products from GC Chemical. They're very inexpensive, cost effective and a quality product.
  • fishbones
    fishbones Posts: 947
    edited September 2010
    I'm out of DN5 anyway, so I might as well try something else. Ordering online doesn't seem to be worth it since you pay $8+ just to ship it. Does Rat Shack have anything decent?
    ..... ><////(*>
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,959
    edited September 2010
    As far as I know, they have the Caig De-Oxit, Gold and some other cheap aerosol spray in the store. Never tried anything but the Caig though.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • fishbones
    fishbones Posts: 947
    edited September 2010
    Just checked Rat Shack's online catalog...outlook doesn't look good to get it local, unless I want to buy another Deoxit pack that comes with the dam GOLD I won't use anyway. Might have to wait to buy more from PE?

    btw, has anyone typed in "Rat Shack" in Google search by accident.....Radio Shack pops up at the top of the list - too funny!
    ..... ><////(*>
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited September 2010
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • HB27
    HB27 Posts: 1,518
    edited September 2010
    fishbones wrote: »
    I'm out of DN5 anyway, so I might as well try something else. Ordering online doesn't seem to be worth it since you pay $8+ just to ship it. Does Rat Shack have anything decent?

    Call your local electronics supply store. Most sell to the public.
  • eeagle
    eeagle Posts: 226
    edited September 2010
    fishbones wrote: »
    I'm out of DN5 anyway, so I might as well try something else. Ordering online doesn't seem to be worth it since you pay $8+ just to ship it. Does Rat Shack have anything decent?

    I picked up may last Deoxit and Fader Lube from Sweetwater W/Free Shipping.
    SDA SRS 1.2
    Adcom GFA-5802
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    Sony DVP-NS999ES
  • fishbones
    fishbones Posts: 947
    edited September 2010
    eeagle wrote: »
    I picked up may last Deoxit and Fader Lube from Sweetwater W/Free Shipping.

    I like this idea!

    HB,
    No retail electronic supply stores around me except for Radio Shack (I went through the whole electronic supply listing in the phone book calling businesses). Seems to be a dying industry, like many, unfortunately - cause I would not call my area small town.

    ...I'm thinking that I want to get the GOLD solvent off of everything I put it on, including the tube sockets and pegs. So, I'm probably going to get the D5 to clean off those, and the F5 (faderlube) for the pots and switches. Sound like a good plan?...or do I hear groans?
    ..... ><////(*>
  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited September 2010
    eeagle wrote: »
    I picked up may last Deoxit and Fader Lube from Sweetwater W/Free Shipping.

    Sweetwater is about 1/2 price off retail & have AWESOME customer service. I'm never ordering from anyone else~
    TNRabbit
    NO Polk Audio Equipment :eek:
    Sunfire TG-IV
    Ashly 1001 Active Crossover
    Rane PEQ-15 Parametric Equalizers x 2
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature Seven
    Carver AL-III Speakers
    Klipsch RT-12d Subwoofer