How to tin bare wire

acmf74
acmf74 Posts: 936
edited September 2010 in Basic Hookup/Wiring Questions
I was to try to tin the some speaker wire. Do I need special solder or just use the plain electrical kind?
Post edited by acmf74 on

Comments

  • fishbones
    fishbones Posts: 947
    edited August 2010
    Guys who do it often (soldering) usually recommend a silver content in the wire for a purer signal. I have used one that was recommended on here from Rat Shack. It was reasonably priced and worked well (I think it had a 2% content). Was there a sound improvement over regular solder? I'll never know.

    IMM, if there is a possibility of a difference of one being better than another, and it's within reason, I'll usually go with what the experienced recommend to make sure I do it right the first time, just in case.
    ..... ><////(*>
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited August 2010
    You may use regular solder if you like, it's just fine. I use a high quality solder because I believe there is worth in doing so. The Radio Shack recommendation or Parts Express product would also be a viable option.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited August 2010
    Put the soldering iron under the wire. Touch the solder to the top of the wire. Let it flow into the strands. Quickly wet your thumb and fore finger, and pull the tinned wire between them to remove excess solder.
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • Fongolio
    Fongolio Posts: 3,516
    edited August 2010
    I use liquid rosin and silver solder for tinning using technique above.
    SDA-1C (full mods)
    Carver TFM-55
    NAD 1130 Pre-amp
    Rega Planar 3 TT/Shelter 501 MkII
    The Clamp
    Revox A77 Mk IV Dolby reel to reel
    Thorens TD160/Mission 774 arm/Stanton 881S Shibata
    Nakamichi CR7 Cassette Deck
    Rotel RCD-855 with modified tube output stage
    Cambridge Audio DACmagic Plus
    ADC Soundshaper 3 EQ
    Ben's IC's
    Nitty Gritty 1.5FI RCM
  • TECHNOKID
    TECHNOKID Posts: 4,298
    edited August 2010
    Fongolio wrote: »
    I use liquid rosin and silver solder for tinning using technique above.
    you can buy 60/40 solder which doesn't need any external rosin as it is in the core of the solder. You have to be carefull of what you use, some stuff is no longer recommendable as breathing it is toxic.

    As pointed out, you heat the bare wire, not the solder. With a clean tip and sufficient heat, while you apply the solder over the bare wire, the solder should melt and flow through the strand like butter in a pan.

    You have to make sure the tinning doesn't get to close and/or inside the insulation as it creates a weak point which will eventually break.

    Enjoy :)
    TK
    DARE TO SOAR:
    “Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life” ;)
  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited August 2010
    60/40 refers to the mix. It only means the solder is 60% tin and 40% lead.

    The rosin built in to the solder is called, 'rosin core'. I use rosin core myself as most soldering is small stuff. Larger parts and hard to heat parts could benefit from seperately applying rosin, or flux paste.

    It's best to clean the cooled solder with a toothbrush and some alcohol if using rosin core. The rosin will eat away at stuff if it sits there a long time, like a tinned speaker wire.

    I say use rosin core, or plain old electronics solder.
  • TECHNOKID
    TECHNOKID Posts: 4,298
    edited August 2010
    ShinAce wrote: »
    60/40 refers to the mix. It only means the solder is 60% tin and 40% lead.

    The rosin built in to the solder is called, 'rosin core'. I use rosin core myself as most soldering is small stuff. Larger parts and hard to heat parts could benefit from seperately applying rosin, or flux paste.

    It's best to clean the cooled solder with a toothbrush and some alcohol if using rosin core. The rosin will eat away at stuff if it sits there a long time, like a tinned speaker wire.

    I say use rosin core, or plain old electronics solder.
    Make sure not to reuse the toothbrush the next morning as you may find it somewhat sticky, will not clean your theeth either as it will rather make sure the debris actually bonds real well to your theeth :D
    Yep, alcool or isopropanol is a great way to clean the xcess flux afterward.
    DARE TO SOAR:
    “Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life” ;)
  • Fongolio
    Fongolio Posts: 3,516
    edited August 2010
    But my breath smell so sweet after brushing with a rosin soaked brush!!
    SDA-1C (full mods)
    Carver TFM-55
    NAD 1130 Pre-amp
    Rega Planar 3 TT/Shelter 501 MkII
    The Clamp
    Revox A77 Mk IV Dolby reel to reel
    Thorens TD160/Mission 774 arm/Stanton 881S Shibata
    Nakamichi CR7 Cassette Deck
    Rotel RCD-855 with modified tube output stage
    Cambridge Audio DACmagic Plus
    ADC Soundshaper 3 EQ
    Ben's IC's
    Nitty Gritty 1.5FI RCM
  • TECHNOKID
    TECHNOKID Posts: 4,298
    edited August 2010
    Fongolio wrote: »
    But my breath smell so sweet after brushing with a rosin soaked brush!!
    I would believe there is nothing to smell as the lips would sealed :eek:
    DARE TO SOAR:
    “Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life” ;)
  • faster100
    faster100 Posts: 6,124
    edited September 2010
    MY opinion, get the flux paste.. a little go's a long way and you don't chance melting the outter wire covering with to much heat.specially if your new to soldering, I use silver solder nothing special, the real fine/thin stuff. have a wet sponge/rag to clean the tip as needed, also helps
    MY HT RIG:
    Sherwood p-965
    Sherwood sd871 dvd
    Rotel 1075 amp x5
    LSI15 mains
    LsiC center
    LSIfx surround backs
    Lsi7 side surrounds
    SVS pb12/plus2


    2 Channel Rig:

    nad 1020 Pre-amp
    Rotel 1080 stereo amp
    Polk sda 2B
    kenwood grunt Tuner
    realistic lab 450 TT
    Signal cable IC
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited September 2010
    Cliff,,is that you?
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,724
    edited September 2010
    Writes and spells like Cliff.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited September 2010
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • jinjuku
    jinjuku Posts: 1,523
    edited September 2010
    Another trick is to put a small bead of solder on the tip of the iron, when the speaker cable wicks it up you are good to apply solder directly to the copper strand.
  • faster100
    faster100 Posts: 6,124
    edited September 2010
    Cliff,,is that you?

    Yes it is. :)
    MY HT RIG:
    Sherwood p-965
    Sherwood sd871 dvd
    Rotel 1075 amp x5
    LSI15 mains
    LsiC center
    LSIfx surround backs
    Lsi7 side surrounds
    SVS pb12/plus2


    2 Channel Rig:

    nad 1020 Pre-amp
    Rotel 1080 stereo amp
    Polk sda 2B
    kenwood grunt Tuner
    realistic lab 450 TT
    Signal cable IC