New system, what speaker wire

Ryan33
Ryan33 Posts: 12
edited September 2010 in Car Audio & Electronics
Hey guys,
I am upgrading from the Polk db series to the mm's! I'm very excited to get it installed but I just want to make sure everything connected correctly. I bought the 5 1/4" speakers, the 10" mm dvc sub, and the 880.1 and 660.4 amps.
Now I work at best buy and the installer said I need...
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-+Dual+Amplifier+Installation+Kit/9906834.p?id=1218193799400&skuId=9906834

That amp kit. Is that correct? Will i also need to buy some high quality speaker wire like monster or kicker...or does that kit include all I'll need.
Thanks for any help. If I'll need anything else or you recommend anything else I'd appreciate it.
Post edited by Ryan33 on
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  • KaosTsoc
    KaosTsoc Posts: 372
    edited August 2010
    Ryan33 wrote: »
    Hey guys,
    I am upgrading from the Polk db series to the mm's! I'm very excited to get it installed but I just want to make sure everything connected correctly. I bought the 5 1/4" speakers, the 10" mm dvc sub, and the 880.1 and 660.4 amps.
    Now I work at best buy and the installer said I need...
    http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker+-+Dual+Amplifier+Installation+Kit/9906834.p?id=1218193799400&skuId=9906834

    That amp kit. Is that correct? Will i also need to buy some high quality speaker wire like monster or kicker...or does that kit include all I'll need.
    Thanks for any help. If I'll need anything else or you recommend anything else I'd appreciate it.

    It has just about everything. The only thing it does not have it the actual speakre wire its selft. So, for your 5 1/4's I would run at least 18-16 gauge wire for those. For your sub I would do no less than 12 AWG for those. Monster wire, Kicker, RF, all just fine, and alot of people on here say that wire is just wire, and say that wire is not just wire. So, just be aware, not that it is a bad thing or anything. Just different opinions.

    As for amp kit its self. I would use the 4 AWG for power, and ground on the 880.1 amp. The bigger the gauge for power the more power will get to it, and help in keeping the power flowing at its best. Also the ground HAS to be same size of the power wire. This helps keep the amp cooler, and if there is a surge (god forbid). The 8 AWG for power, and ground would be fine for for the 660.4.

    Now in setting this up, run the main power wire (blue with black sleeve) 4 AWG from your batter, and then put the 09FHS fuse holder no father away than 18" from the battery, and mount to fire wall. Then run the wire through the fire wall where lets say the gas pedel is, and run that to one of the distrobution blocks. Then cut the the wire, insert wire into the one side that only has one hole, then take the other, and insert that into the other side where there are 4 holes, and then insert the other side of the wire into the 880.1 amp. Then take the 8 AWG wire, insert one end of wire into distrobution block where there are 4 holes, and then insert the other end into the 660.4 amp.

    Ok now, with your grounds. You need to first decied where you are going to place the amps, once you have that then pick a place in the car where you want to ground the amps. I would suggest that you ground both amps at the same place to help with ground loops. Once you have that picked then run your 4 AWG ground from your 880.1 amp, and your 8 AWG ground from your 660.4 to the same place.

    NOTICE: Befor you plug in your power wires, please make sure that you disconnect the negative battery wire, and then ground your amps first, then run your power wire, and then hook up battery. Dont want to burn anything up.

    Thanks
    2006 Prerunner Access Cab
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  • chu
    chu Posts: 178
    edited September 2010
    You will need an amp kit preferably 4 gauge or bigger. As for speaker wire, 12 gauge minimum for speaker and 10-4 gauge for subs depending on how you're going to wire them. Stinger, rf, streetwire have quality wires, avoid monster at all cost.
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  • Ryan33
    Ryan33 Posts: 12
    edited September 2010
    chu wrote: »
    You will need an amp kit preferably 4 gauge or bigger. As for speaker wire, 12 gauge minimum for speaker and 10-4 gauge for subs depending on how you're going to wire them. Stinger, rf, streetwire have quality wires, avoid monster at all cost.

    Really, avoid monster? how come...
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  • chu
    chu Posts: 178
    edited September 2010
    Ryan33 wrote: »
    Really, avoid monster? how come...

    Monster track record and their horribly overpriced wires. Their wire isn't any better than the companies I have listed.
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  • Vital
    Vital Posts: 747
    edited September 2010
    chu wrote: »
    You will need an amp kit preferably 4 gauge or bigger. As for speaker wire, 12 gauge minimum for speaker and 10-4 gauge for subs depending on how you're going to wire them. Stinger, rf, streetwire have quality wires, avoid monster at all cost.

    Is there really a need for 4g wire to be run from amp to 1 sub???
    2008 Nissan Altima
    Kenwood DNX 5140
    Arc Audio IDX and XEQ
    Polk Audio SR6500 active and SR124-dvc sealed
    Polk Audio PA500.4 and PA1200.1
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  • chu
    chu Posts: 178
    edited September 2010
    Vital wrote: »
    Is there really a need for 4g wire to be run from amp to 1 sub???

    How are you wiring your subs? Running a bigger wire to your subwoofer is extremely dependent on how much power you're going to run to the subwoofer.
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  • Vital
    Vital Posts: 747
    edited September 2010
    ^^^ true, but he's talking about 350 rms sub. Decent (rockford, kicker, stinger...) 12g wire will do just fine. Unless his amp is under the front seat while sub is in the trunk, but i don't think that's the case.
    2008 Nissan Altima
    Kenwood DNX 5140
    Arc Audio IDX and XEQ
    Polk Audio SR6500 active and SR124-dvc sealed
    Polk Audio PA500.4 and PA1200.1
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  • chu
    chu Posts: 178
    edited September 2010
    Vital wrote: »
    ^^^ true, but he's talking about 350 rms sub. Decent (rockford, kicker, stinger...) 12g wire will do just fine. Unless his amp is under the front seat while sub is in the trunk, but i don't think that's the case.

    The sub max rms does not play in effect here, how much power he's driving the sub with is what counts.

    I have roughly 2500rms running into my 4 mm840 that were rated at 180rms each.
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  • Ryan33
    Ryan33 Posts: 12
    edited September 2010
    chu wrote: »
    The sub max rms does not play in effect here, how much power he's driving the sub with is what counts.

    I have roughly 2500rms running into my 4 mm840 that were rated at 180rms each.
    I'd be drivin it with the PA 880.1 and mounted in the trunk by the sub.
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  • chu
    chu Posts: 178
    edited September 2010
    Ryan33 wrote: »
    I'd be drivin it with the PA 880.1 and mounted in the trunk by the sub.

    1, 2, or 4 ohms?
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  • Ryan33
    Ryan33 Posts: 12
    edited September 2010
    chu wrote: »
    1, 2, or 4 ohms?

    4 ohms
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  • chu
    chu Posts: 178
    edited September 2010
    10 will be fine
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