Build a riser to fit a CS2 on any TV stand.
I figured this might need its own thread for more exposure to those who might need it...
For anyone who is wondering how to fit a CS2 under their TV, I suggest building a riser. I have attached a few pictures of mine. I built it a few weeks ago, using simple tools, in just one night.
You'll need:
-- 1 x MDF Board (30x15)
-- 2 x MDF Board (8x15)
-- 4 x L-brackets
-- Wood screws/Screwdriver
-- Wood glue
-- 1 x Shepherd 3/8 In. Surface Gard Round Clear Self Adhesive Vinyl Pads, 16-Pack (I used 4 per leg)
-- Drill/Drill bits for starter holes
-- 1 can each of Primer & Paint/Stain of your choice
-- Fine and Ultra Fine sandpaper
-- A few hours of your time
Total cost for parts -- all from Home Depot -- was under $35.
The riser easily holds my 53 pound plasma -- I stood and hopped on it with my own 165 lbs! -- and my guests always think it came as a part of the base stand. Home Depot will do the cuts for you if you don't have access to a table saw, and they even sell the rounded MDF in 15"-wide pieces!
Anything worth doing is worth doing right.
For anyone who is wondering how to fit a CS2 under their TV, I suggest building a riser. I have attached a few pictures of mine. I built it a few weeks ago, using simple tools, in just one night.
You'll need:
-- 1 x MDF Board (30x15)
-- 2 x MDF Board (8x15)
-- 4 x L-brackets
-- Wood screws/Screwdriver
-- Wood glue
-- 1 x Shepherd 3/8 In. Surface Gard Round Clear Self Adhesive Vinyl Pads, 16-Pack (I used 4 per leg)
-- Drill/Drill bits for starter holes
-- 1 can each of Primer & Paint/Stain of your choice
-- Fine and Ultra Fine sandpaper
-- A few hours of your time
Total cost for parts -- all from Home Depot -- was under $35.
The riser easily holds my 53 pound plasma -- I stood and hopped on it with my own 165 lbs! -- and my guests always think it came as a part of the base stand. Home Depot will do the cuts for you if you don't have access to a table saw, and they even sell the rounded MDF in 15"-wide pieces!
Anything worth doing is worth doing right.
Post edited by palehorse on
Comments
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Nice project...do you have some pics of the final piece you could post?
cnhCurrently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!
Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
[sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash] -
I keep trying to attach them, but it won't let me... maybe because I attached them in a previous post? and now it won't even let me edit the old post!... weird.
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OK, fixed... photos uploaded.
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That is some NICE craftsmanship! Good work! It really does blend in extremely well. I have been meaning to build something like this for mine, I'll have to refer to your list when I get around to planning mine out. Thanks for the post!Living Room 7.1 HT Rig:
M70 | CS2 | M60 | Atrium5 - Surr. | SUB - Emotiva ULTRA12 + Tara Labs sub cable | Pioneer Elite VSX-52 | Parasound HCAs 1000A | Sony BDP-S790 | Belkin PureAV PF60 | MIT Exp2 Wires
Bedroom 5.0 HT Rig (Music/Movies/Gaming) :
LSi9 | LsiC | Lsi/fx | Marantz SR7002 | NAD T955 | Sony BDP-S360 | Belkin PureAV PF30 | AQ Blue Racer II ICs & AQ Type 4 wires | PS3 -
Thanks for the compliments!
I do plan to change out the main TV stand, and TV; but, the riser will stay until I wallmount the new TV -- at which point I'll gladly sell this riser. -
yep that's what i need for mine. Sadly i'm not too handy so DIY is a bit out of my league. Wish it wasn't though. I might be able to get someone to do it though.
Anybody out there go with any alternatives?SPEAKERS:
FRONTS: 2 x POLK MONITOR 70 SERIES II
CENTER: POLK CS2 SERIES II
REARS: 2 x POLK MONITOR 50 SERIES II
A/V RECEIVER: PIONEER VSX-1020-K
TV: SAMSUNG LN52A630
SONY PS3 FAT 80GB
NINTENDO WII
TIME WARNER CABLE HD-DVR: SCIENTIFIC ATLANTA EXPLORER 8300HDC
PHILIPS DVR/DVD-R: DVDR3575H
PHILIPS DVD PLAYER: DVP5982
SANYO VCR: VWM-950 -
Whew, just picked up (5 minutes ago) a CSi5, first off, if I survive my better half when I get home, I'll have to build one of these for my TV as well, nice job, it'll give me something good to go by!
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Looks very nice! But I personally would add another piece or two of MDF (rear and/or bottom) to the riser to make sure that it has zero chance of accidental collapse. If the riser is bumper hard from the side, one of two things could happen, even though chances are slim:
1) the screws strip from the L-brackets and the riser collapses (pancakes, sorta), sending your TV a' tumbling and damaging your tower speakers, etc, or
2) the entire riser slides to the side and off the top of the main rack, also sending your TV a' tumbling, et al...
As a fellow Pioneer plasma TV owner, I'd hate to see anything happen to your irreplaceable set...
Just my two cents!Anything worth doing is worth doing right.Main HT:JVC DLA-RS45135" Elite Screens fixed frame, 1.1 gainMarantz SR7007 (operating as pre-pro)Emotiva XPA-1 x3 (L+C+R), UPA-7 (surrounds)Oppo BDP-103D/BDP-83Toshiba HD-XA2Panamax M5410 Pro x3Polk LSiM707s, LSiC706, 80 F/X-LS, 65-RTSeaton Sound/MCCA MFW "Turbo" + custom Dayton SA1000 sub amp (orig. AV123 MFW-15)Velodyne SMS-1I/Cs: MP 12ga/4-cond (fronts); MP 12ga (surrounds), MP HDMI (all sources), some BJC sprinkled thruoutHarmony EliteSalamander Triple 40 C/B* still need to sell older but mint gear!! -
Hi Palehorse,
How is your stand doing after 3 years? It really looks great. -
Hi Palehorse,
How is your stand doing after 3 years? It really looks great. -
glad to see the use of pads
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Still going strong! I even placed a larger TV on top of it, and it has held up great. Sadly, though, it may be retired soon since my wife finally let me rearrange the room properly, so I can now mount the TV on the wall.
Thanks for replying! I am going to go to home Depot to pick up the parts today. I don't have a saw but I do have a drill with bits. I assume that it is just common sense in terms of assembling it right?
Is it necessary to add the extra mdf board that the other poster suggested?
Thanks so much! -
Thanks for replying! I am going to go to home Depot to pick up the parts today. I don't have a saw but I do have a drill with bits. I assume that it is just common sense in terms of assembling it right?
Is it necessary to add the extra mdf board that the other poster suggested?
Thanks so much!
A backing is a good idea. It adds a lot of stability to the unit. -
Upstatemax wrote: »A backing is a good idea. It adds a lot of stability to the unit.
Did you drill a couple of holes for the speaker wires for the backing? -
Just use 2 stair treads. They will be hard wood and the front will be routered with a rouned edge. Use one for the deck and the other one for the legs.AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
Rear: FXI A4
Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II -
Did you drill a couple of holes for the speaker wires for the backing?
I did not build this unit, but I've built similar.
Yes, all you will need to do is use a small hole saw and cut an access for wire. -
Hi guys,
Thanks for the posts. So, I built this using 1/2 inch MDF. I used 6 L brackets (heavy duty). It's currently in the basement as I just sprayed it with paint.
I stood on it but did not jump on it. It did sag a little bit. I weigh 138 pounds. A Samsung 50 inch plasma is going on top (about 85 pounds I think). I am slightly nervous about it collapsing...thoughts?
I do think that I will get a MDF cut for the back to add extra support.
My only regret is that I wished I used 3/4 inch MDF instead of 1/2 inch. Stupid me as I was trying to save money. I wish I didn't..
Palehorse, it looks like you used 3/4 inch right?