Binding posts
codyc1ark
Posts: 2,532
I recently came upon a early pair of SDA-CRS's. I came home and went to unscrew the first post, with small pressure, it snapped. Boo. So, I went and bought 2 sets from Lowe's, after looking around they seem to be of good quality, gold plated and all, I'm not sure how much difference they make, either way I'm sure it will be an upgrade from stock. So I crack em' open tonight, and discover that everything is hot glued. Scoured the forums, this seems to be correct. But didn't find step by step instructions... I've never remover soldier, hot glue, or done any speaker modding. I have a guy I can pay to do it and think he would do a fine job, but would like to do it myself. Any directions, websites, or anything would be of great help, or you can talk me down and make fun of my 'speaker modding skillz', I'm a big boy, I can take it. Thanks guys.
Post edited by codyc1ark on
Comments
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You'll have to carefully cut and pry off small pieces of the glue material until it's all gone. Soldering is easy, but takes some practice. Got a junk board you can play with? Got a solder gun and solder sucker?
Once the new posts are installed, you have to seal everything again, hot glue works well.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
+1 on what F1Nut said. I just did this to my SDA2B's. The old hot glue will come off pretty easy if you take your time. I found that using a small screwdriver, prying under the edge, and working all around the old glue to work well. You will see the glue pop away from the surface as you work around it. do this carefully so as to not hurt the plastic plate the binding posts are mounted to. Once you have the old glue separated from the surface, you can pull it away from the binding posts pretty easily. Depending on the size of your new posts, you may have to enlarge the holes a bit with a drill. Once you have your posts changed out, and soldering is complete, use a hot glue gun to seal everything back again, and you'll be set to go.Sunfire Theater Grand IV
Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature
SRS 2.1TL
SDA 2BTL's
CSiA6
FXiA4
FXiA6
SDA 2A's
Monitor 10A's
http://www.douglasconnection.com -
Excellent advice guys, thanks, I'll be going to Wal-**** or Lowe's this afternoon to get a hot glue gun and a soldiering iron, I'll find something to practice on, sounds like a great weekend project. The girlfriend won't be a fan though!
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Here are photos of a two hour adventure tonight on my compact, only one speaker is done right now, and wanted to do it that way to compair. I cleaned all connections, replaced posts on my left speaker, including the sda cable with 'Ideal electronic switch and contact cleaner' from Lowes. It brought luster back to the fuse holder, fuses, and interconnect forks. Had to drill and file out the plate a bit for the posts to fit, reglued the back of the posts and fired it up. I think it has a brighter sound, and somewhat louder now. I'm happy with it and will be doing the right speaker this weekend. Very happy with myself! *toot my own horn*
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does upgrading the post make a difference? have not read any post on this yet. just asking.mole'
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Unknown to me, I think cleaning fuses etc... most likey had the biggest difference I suppose.
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Unknown to me, I think cleaning fuses etc... most likey had the biggest difference I suppose.
my SDA's and Monitors dont have fuses.mole' -
Eeks, looking at this picture I really need to downsize on my cables if possible!
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I can't say for sure the new binding posts made any difference in the sound, as I did this upgrade along with everything else at the same time. But they sure do look purdy!Sunfire Theater Grand IV
Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature
SRS 2.1TL
SDA 2BTL's
CSiA6
FXiA4
FXiA6
SDA 2A's
Monitor 10A's
http://www.douglasconnection.com -
Anybody have any ideas on if the higher quality posts make any difference? Mine are $5.00 Lowe's specials.
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I've always used Cardas or Vampire BP-HexJC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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george daniel wrote: »I've always used Cardas or Vampire BP-Hex"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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Yes, they are rather expensive though, right? I think our question is it going to improve sound quality over regular gold plated posts?
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My experience is with the Vampire Wire BPHEX CB binding posts. Yes, they were on the expensive side all right. But to me, since I was investing so much into these speakers to start with, I wanted to take no chances so went with the best I could afford. All I can tell you is the combination of the 198 tweeters, tl upgrade to the crossovers with all sonicaps by ben62670, Complete set of retainer rings by TOOLFORLIFEFAN, Mortite, and the new BPHEX CB binding posts, these speakers are at a whole new level, and are well worth the investment.Sunfire Theater Grand IV
Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature
SRS 2.1TL
SDA 2BTL's
CSiA6
FXiA4
FXiA6
SDA 2A's
Monitor 10A's
http://www.douglasconnection.com -
Everything matters!! Correct?? Like most I did other upgrades at the same time so I can't say one way or another. But it looks like my MIT's like having sex with Cardas..Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎
SVS SB16 X2
Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
Cary DMS 800PV Network
OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
Jolida JD9 Fully Modified
VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM
MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s -
Here are photos of a two hour adventure tonight on my compact, only one speaker is done right now, and wanted to do it that way to compair. I cleaned all connections, replaced posts on my left speaker, including the sda cable with 'Ideal electronic switch and contact cleaner' from Lowes. It brought luster back to the fuse holder, fuses, and interconnect forks. Had to drill and file out the plate a bit for the posts to fit, reglued the back of the posts and fired it up. I think it has a brighter sound, and somewhat louder now. I'm happy with it and will be doing the right speaker this weekend. Very happy with myself! *toot my own horn*
Nice job!
See! Once you get over the fear or anxiety of doing it yourself it really isn't all that hard to do. That's true with most DIY modifications.
When I upgraded/updated my crossovers and binding posts, it had been years since I had a soldering gun in my hands and worked on circuit boards and such. Of course with the help of F1nut, after watching him do one, I jumped right in and did the other myself. It was like riding a bicycle. After that all the fear went down the tubes and I've been able to get back into tweaking and modifying speakers and gear. -
anonymouse wrote: »Yes, to your peace of mind. I detected no sonic differences, but I only used Parts Express binding posts, not the exotic Cardas and such that some on here use. One thing to keep in mind is that a solid, secure, high quality post is going to be better able to clamp down on super thick spades and such.
My thoughts and experience exactly! However I did use Cardas posts and although expensive I have no worries. There is something comforting about holding those heavy well made posts in your hands knowing they are going to replace the **** stock posts.
I hate spades as I could never get the amount of pressure to keep them in place without fear of cracking the plastic nuts, so I would always have to keep going back and tightening them up for peace of mind and that's not to mention maintain a good electrical connection.
Not so with the Cardas post and another plus is the holes to plug in banana clips are nice and tight. -
TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »Everything matters!! Correct?? Like most I did other upgrades at the same time so I can't say one way or another. But it looks like my MIT's like having sex with Cardas..
Hahaha! Very well said!;)