Pbd

sntnsupermen131

hey vince, i got a few questions for you
how are you running your amps to your ID maxes and how much power are you giving them?
1500x1 @ 4ohms
are they 4 ohm speakers?
and i forgot about this til now...but this is the first time ive used a cap and not really that knowlegable about the subject...but when i disconnected my amp to the cap...was i sposed to de-charge the cap?...do i have to recharge it when i hook it up again?
how is your electrical system doing with all that power being taken out of it?
do you have multiple batteries/alternators?
is it possible to have too big a fuse?
like could anything bad happen to the amp?
and btw...i put your money order in my mail box today...its getting taken up tomorrow and itll get there as soon as the usps gets it there
thanks
-Cody

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ok... here we go dude....

1- amps / maxes --> each sub is dual 4 ohm coil -- you can buy them as dual 2's or dual 4's, and this year they came out with 10" and 15" verisons as well, both with the dual 2 or dual 4 option... they do not make a single coil max. so I am running one dual 4 (2 ohm parallleled load) to each amp. i had had the amps at what you could call their "highest rms" for a while, but it was too much power... i was getting 1480 and 1560 (the one amp is a little weaker than the other) respectively to each... i've cut the gains back a little, bass boost on the amp is at like 3 db's, xover is about 70-75 hz, and i'm probably getting somewhere in the 1300 watt range to each one. i haven't re-tested the output yet, haven't been able to get ahold of another O-scope. but roughly just testing voltage and going at it, i'm right around 1300 - 1325... i can turn it up and burp them, but its not something i'd like to do... they're not made for burping ( the V2) -- the V3's however are

2- caps --> if you had no other amps hooked up to that power line, then you could discharge the capacitor and either leave it in the car (obviously completely disconnected from the power line(s) ) or you could take it out and put it in teh garage or whatever... to discharge it you just use the same resistor u used to charge it, only jump it from + to - on the cap. to re-charge it -- just wire the whole system up -- but leave the fuse out of your fuse holder under hte hood -- then put the resistor in place of the fuse -- wait about 10 minutes and it shoudl be all charged up - you can put the fuse in and all is well.

3- my electrical systs --> is under serious stress... i've got two 900 cca / 1100 ca batteries under the hood, both are run with 0/1 gauge to the alternator, and one runs a 2 gauge line to the cabin, the other a 0 gauge line -- both lines go together at a bank of capacitors and then all the amps run off that main bank of caps... under the hood is just the stock alt -- i had a 137A (optional "HD" stock alt) that **** the bed -- had to revert to the "stock" stock 117A ... my draw at peak load, when i've got the volume as high as i'll listen to it (say about 1300 to each sub and 500 or so going to the highs...) is about 225 - 250A ... the alt does 117 @ about 1000 rpms, so its there when just going down the road at 30 mph -- so i've gotta draw another 100 -125, which is "ok" coming off the batteries at up to 50A per battery. you see why its stressed though... ideally i'd get a 200 or better amp alt .. however due to the computer regulation of my alternator (and it goes both ways the car gets idling info off the alt) i cant just throw anything in there -- the best i could do is a $575 dollar ohio generator alt... and right now, considering that the car hasn't exploded, i dont intend to spend that much. for daily driving, my voltage meter rarely drops below 13... almost never... and when it does its when i'm trying to get more out of the system than i should be. again -- i can't burp this thing -- not only would the woofers not be happy, i clearly do not have the power for it.

4- fuse size --> too big of a fuse is only going to do one thing... if your amp(s) die, and have a short circuit inside, too large of a fuse will allow them to suck up and short circuit so much current that much of the internals of the amp could suffer badly... you can blow a whole rail of power supply transistors like that. this would have to be at least 25% too big though... like if you're amp calls for a 50A fuse and you put a 60 -- its not going to hurt jack.... but an 80 or a 100 probably will.

that's all a fuse does.. it only does its job when u have a problem.. as long as u dont.. it just sleeps.

i get the feeling you're considering adding a lot more audio? .. if so -- bd1000.1's would push idmaxes... but most anyone is going to tell u... if u can afford it.. dont use class D... a USamps 2000x will push two idmaxes easily (does like 2300 x 1 class AB with low distortion - not sure of the number but its less than 0.1, and a 30mv/sec slew rate i think). its about 800 - 900 bucks on ebay -- so that's two 400 dollar class D mono's right there -- jsut about the same price... way better power... and only one amp instead of two. with two batteries under the hood -- you're stock GM alt, and like 4 caps you'll probably be fine... you'd really need a 0/2 or dual 0/1 lines though.

the two batteries are essential though -- i've seen people with friggin just running lights on run down the batteries in cars so fast its sick -- my girl has a 640cca die hard that **** the bed after about an hour with a 750 w rms system. --- my grandfather's 1100 CCA exide dies after about 3 hours with a 500W system. --- these are "ignition off" numbers... me, i can go for about 4 hours with the volume on "half" and all amps on at the drive in... volume at full -- about hour and a half.

sntnsupermen131

thanks for all the info
but about the cap, when i unhooked my amp to send to you....i just unhooked everything to the cap, what im asking is when i get the amp back, can i just hook it up, or will i need to charge it or something before?
im not planning on adding ID maxes anytime soon..but possibly in the future
im "happy" with what i have now
theres a few things im going to do to my truck now...then im calling it quits and saving for a new truck
like...
new momo 4x6s
amp for those
new wiring for the bd or if that doesnt get fixed if i cant find a brand new bd on ebay then itll be for a type 6 or 7
then im going to move all the wiring down
the 4 awg i had running to the bd will go down to the components...8 awg components to new amp for 4x6s
new speaker wire to the 4x6s(its stock now)
and new patch cables for everything
xm radio
another 1 farad cap and hook it up to the components' amp and the 4x6s' amp
maybe bass lights....still thinking about that one
as soon as i hear news on my amp is when i decide if im going to get xm radio
if its fixed...ill have xm radio within 1-2 weeks...if not ill have a new amp within a week
lol
thena after all that...time for a new truck
im looking for a 2000 or better 4 door(suicide door)Z71
then transfer the system over and dynamat everything
then im going to have fun fixing up that truck
3-5 in suspension lift, 33 or 35" tires
i wish i had a money tree
-Cody

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u can hook it right back up - no worries me thinx.

... 2002 silvy 2500hd -- th'ats a pimp **** truck... snag one of those if u can dude

sntnsupermen131

i hope trappedunderice doesnt see this post...hell tell me to throw it away and not worry about it
lol
and about the truck...
i would but cant afford the gas
my truck i have now is a 2500
it drinks the gas really well...
and its a 2wd
but i know the truck youre talking about
the really short bed(sport bed or whatever its called) with the 4 full size doors
maybe a 1500HD 4x4
but a z71 will most likely be cheaper
besides the ride sucks on a 2500 truck
lol
probably the 1500HD's too
-Cody

sntnsupermen131

a 2500HD 4x4 4 door w/ sport bed and one of these trailers
http://www.rubiconcargotrailer.com/RubiconTrail/ll.htm
-Cody

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what the hell kinda trailer is that???

that guy looks buried in the dirt or in a pit or something yet the trailer seemingly hasn't tipped over.

sntnsupermen131

lol....one bad **** trailer...
-Cody

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one bad **** trailer = jennifer lopez