Replacing attached power cords with IEC connector

quadzilla
quadzilla Posts: 1,543
edited October 2013 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Anyone have any good links with tips, or just have some experience with, replacing an attached power cord with an IEC connector?

Thanks,
Rob
Turntable: Empire 208
Arm: Rega 300
Cart: Shelter 501 III
Phono Pre: dsachs consulting
Digital: Marantz SACD 30n
Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
Amp: Conrad Johnson Premier 350
Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified
Post edited by quadzilla on
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited July 2010
    Hello Rob,
    I've done a few of those. You can remove the existing power cord from the chassis, then use a "metal nibbler" to make a rectangular opening to fit the IEC socket. I usually will place masking tape over the intended area and then use a fine tip pen to draw the outline. The original hole, where the power cord went through, should give you a beginning place for the nibbler. Another approach is to use a rectangular chassis punch to create the hole. Then you can either use a "snap-in" IEC socket or one with mounting holes. The snap-in type will usually work with slightly thicker chassis metal and not be too lose. The mounting hole type requires two holes, obviously. You can find IEC sockets that built-in filters, etc.
    I hope this helps.
    Ken
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,301
    edited July 2010
    Where is the best place to buy the sockets??
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited July 2010
    Parts Express, Sonic Craft, etc...
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,301
    edited July 2010
    Any quality ones to look for??
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited July 2010
    I've never made any comparisons between brands.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited July 2010
    I use a Dremel to make the socket hole. Any brand will do fine.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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  • fbm211
    fbm211 Posts: 1,488
    edited July 2010
    Here is a good socket at a good price.And its 20% off right now.

    >> http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/ac/socket/iec/furutech_fi10.htm

    They have some for 12.00 too.But Id go for one with screw terminals.
    SDA-2BTL with custom IC
    Adcom 565 monoblocks--Monarchy Audio M-10 preamp
    Theta Data Basic Transport--Stello DA100 Signature DAC--Camelot Dragon Pro2 MK III
    Harman Kardon T-55c TT
    DH Labs Q-10 Signature Speaker Cables With Furez silver plated copper bananas
    Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver Reference AES/EBU
    Revelation Audio Labs Prophecy Cryo-Silver i2s digital cable
    4 Furutech FP-314Ag with FI-11cu Plugs/FI-11AG IECs--- Power Cords
    DH LABS REVELATIONS ICs-amps
    Revelation Audio Labs Paradise cryo-silver ICs-Source to pre
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  • quadzilla
    quadzilla Posts: 1,543
    edited July 2010
    Thanks guys! That's exactly the info I was looking for. I thought it might be as easy as just cutting out the hole, but I haven't tried and it don't have any "spares" to experiment on. A dremel and masking tape I have. Using metal shears sounds like it might be more precise, but this is pretty heavy steel. Not sure I could get shears through it. The chassis punch isn't something I thought of. I'll have to look into that too.
    Turntable: Empire 208
    Arm: Rega 300
    Cart: Shelter 501 III
    Phono Pre: dsachs consulting
    Digital: Marantz SACD 30n
    Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
    Amp: Conrad Johnson Premier 350
    Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
    Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,301
    edited July 2010
    Rob thanks for posting this thread. I want to do my Pioneer SC-07.
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • quadzilla
    quadzilla Posts: 1,543
    edited July 2010
    You're most welcome. I'm thinking my SC-05 and the Mackie amps will get this treatment. I got some Pangea PCs after seeing how much people liked them in the other thread. They lowered the noise floor in all my sources considerably, including getting rid of a very slight hum in one. I'm thinking that replacing the PCs on the rest of the gear is the next logical step to see if that gets rid of a very slight hum in the amps I've never been able to completely vanquish. I certainly noticed an immediate improvement in sound, and the improvements are all easily attributable to the lower noise floor.
    Turntable: Empire 208
    Arm: Rega 300
    Cart: Shelter 501 III
    Phono Pre: dsachs consulting
    Digital: Marantz SACD 30n
    Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
    Amp: Conrad Johnson Premier 350
    Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
    Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified
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  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,092
    edited July 2010
    That is it, I'm getting off the fence and doing this to my Denon Power Amp. Thanks for the info guys.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    edited July 2010
    The Furutech IEC's are excellent.

    A word of caution before cutting and drilling. Make sure you're not going to hit anything inside the chassis and make sure that there is actually room to mount an IEC.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • quadzilla
    quadzilla Posts: 1,543
    edited July 2010
    Anyone have a manf. or link to a chassis punch? The only one I've found so far in the right size was ~450 bucks. If not, guess I'll be getting out the good ol' dremel in a few.
    Turntable: Empire 208
    Arm: Rega 300
    Cart: Shelter 501 III
    Phono Pre: dsachs consulting
    Digital: Marantz SACD 30n
    Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
    Amp: Conrad Johnson Premier 350
    Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
    Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited July 2010
    I don't have a specific part number, but Greenlee is the company most known for chassis punches. Try Mouser's catalogue.
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited July 2010
    I looked in Mouser's catalog and didn't find anything specific to recommend. The square chassis punches are very expensive. My nibbler tool will cut up to 18 gauge (.046") steel and 1/16" aluminum and with a little practice can make an almost perfect rectangle. The nice thing about the nibbler is you can control the cuttings. Each time you take a "bite" the small residue comes away with the tool. You can make sure there's no metal shavings to worry about. That's handy when the piece of equipment is occupied.
    I keep an eye out on CL for Greenlee punches all the time but haven't found a square one.
    Cheers, Ken
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  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,834
    edited July 2010
    It's pretty simple to do, and worth it.

    FWIW, I used a Dremel and a nibbler tool, either one will work fine, but the nibbler makes the cutouts nice and neat.
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
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  • quadzilla
    quadzilla Posts: 1,543
    edited July 2010
    OK. I checked a couple of hardware stores for a nibbler, but no luck. Guess I'll try some more.
    Turntable: Empire 208
    Arm: Rega 300
    Cart: Shelter 501 III
    Phono Pre: dsachs consulting
    Digital: Marantz SACD 30n
    Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
    Amp: Conrad Johnson Premier 350
    Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
    Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified
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  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited July 2010
    Ken,, how would you wire an IEC when the cord that you are replacing is two pronged?I'm not an EE,,hence the elementary question.I'm struggling because the IEC has 3 vs 2 (stock power cord on amp which is captive)
    Thanks.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited July 2010
    They can be found in Mouser's catalog and GC Chemicals.
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited July 2010
    PartsExpress also carries one: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=360-022&vReviewShow=1&vReviewRand=1501762
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited July 2010
    Hello George,
    The three prong cord has a "hot" and a "neutral", which are side-by-side and ground connection that is a round pin. Your audio component will just have a hot and neutral wire to connect. If you were to hold the IEC socket as if it were already installed in the component's chassis and the ground lug were on top, the "hot" would be the left prong and the "neutral" would be the right prong. As far as your component's hot and neutral wires, the best approach would be to use two "alligator-clip leads" and a VOM. Use the clip leads to connect the component's bare wires to the hot and neutral terminals of the installed IEC socket. Then, with the component turned on, use the VOM to measure the AC voltage between the component's chassis ground and the neutral terminal. Then, after turning off the component, reverse the two wires on the two IEC terminals. Remeasure between the chassis ground and the neutral IEC terminal. Pick the connection that has the lowest voltage present between the chassis ground and the neutral terminal.
    There won't be anything connected to the IEC ground terminal.
    I hope this is helpful.
    Ken
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  • quadzilla
    quadzilla Posts: 1,543
    edited July 2010
    Face wrote: »
    PartsExpress also carries one: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=360-022&vReviewShow=1&vReviewRand=1501762

    Ah, thanks, that would be what I'm looking for. One hardware store tried to sell me some electric shears for 190. That was a bit more than I was prepared to spend for this project for just tools.
    Turntable: Empire 208
    Arm: Rega 300
    Cart: Shelter 501 III
    Phono Pre: dsachs consulting
    Digital: Marantz SACD 30n
    Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
    Amp: Conrad Johnson Premier 350
    Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
    Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • quadzilla
    quadzilla Posts: 1,543
    edited July 2010
    Guess it'll be a dremel... The Mackies are 14 ga steel.
    Turntable: Empire 208
    Arm: Rega 300
    Cart: Shelter 501 III
    Phono Pre: dsachs consulting
    Digital: Marantz SACD 30n
    Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
    Amp: Conrad Johnson Premier 350
    Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
    Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified
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  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited July 2010
    Kenneth Swauger wrote: »
    Hello George,
    The three prong cord has a "hot" and a "neutral", which are side-by-side and ground connection that is a round pin. Your audio component will just have a hot and neutral wire to connect. If you were to hold the IEC socket as if it were already installed in the component's chassis and the ground lug were on top, the "hot" would be the left prong and the "neutral" would be the right prong. As far as your component's hot and neutral wires, the best approach would be to use two "alligator-clip leads" and a VOM. Use the clip leads to connect the component's bare wires to the hot and neutral terminals of the installed IEC socket. Then, with the component turned on, use the VOM to measure the AC voltage between the component's chassis ground and the neutral terminal. Then, after turning off the component, reverse the two wires on the two IEC terminals. Remeasure between the chassis ground and the neutral IEC terminal. Pick the connection that has the lowest voltage present between the chassis ground and the neutral terminal.
    There won't be anything connected to the IEC ground terminal.
    I hope this is helpful.
    Ken

    Perfect-thanks Ken.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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  • carvcom
    carvcom Posts: 240
    edited July 2010
    Hey guys,
    I know it's a few days later, but, I installed these on all 3 of my Carver amps. I would highly recommend removing the rear panel before attacking it with a dremel or shears. I actually had a machinist buddy hog mine out with an end mill with great results.
    Just my 2 cents.
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  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited September 2010
    Hello,
    I've dug up some additional information on finding a suitable chassis punch. A Switchcraft IEC socket measures 1.19" wide and 0.81" high. The Greenlee chassis punch 60040 will make a hole 1.181" by 0.866" that should be a very good fit. Next step is to save up $350.00 and buy one, I'll let everyone know the results.
    Cheers, Ken
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,563
    edited October 2013
    Kenneth Swauger wrote: »
    Hello,
    I've dug up some additional information on finding a suitable chassis punch. A Switchcraft IEC socket measures 1.19" wide and 0.81" high. The Greenlee chassis punch 60040 will make a hole 1.181" by 0.866" that should be a very good fit. Next step is to save up $350.00 and buy one, I'll let everyone know the results.
    Cheers, Ken

    That looks like the next big thing from Larry(toolfan). I can't believe those are that pricey 350.00/500.00 for the same tool...crazy prices. I can see spending that much IF I did 4-5 a day it would pay for itself, but 3-4 over 8-10 yrs not so much....
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