99 Suburban rear drum brakes

mdaudioguy
mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
edited July 2010 in The Clubhouse
I've done many brake jobs - always disc brakes, though. Any tips or tricks for rear drums on a Chevy truck?
Post edited by mdaudioguy on
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  • Vette C6.r
    Vette C6.r Posts: 1,560
    edited July 2010
    Take ALOT of pictures. You won't remember where everything goes.

    Also don't screw the self-adjuster in much.

    They have fancy drum brake tools but I akways found it easier to just use vice-grips and slip joint plyers on them.

    They also have a long and short shoe. Make sure you put the two different shoes back on correctly.

    Don't allow the wheel cylinders to come apart. It will intoduce air into the system.

    Good luck Ed.
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  • Disc Jockey
    Disc Jockey Posts: 1,013
    edited July 2010
    Do you have a set of drum brake tools? If no, go get one. They are not strictly essential but they will make the job a lot easier. Other than that, it's been so long since I've done a set of drum brakes that I've got nothing else for you. Good luck!
    "The secret of happiness is freedom. The secret of freedom is courage." Thucydides
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  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,808
    edited July 2010
    Get a set of those "Mechanix" gloves or similar with knuckle shields. You're gonna slip with the tool and it'll still hurt with the gloves but at least you're less likely to take a chunk out of your hands.
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
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  • Vette C6.r
    Vette C6.r Posts: 1,560
    edited July 2010
    P.S. This may sound really stupid but take the emergency brake off. I tried for 30 min to get a drum off only to find out I forgot to take the emergency brake off. Never again. LOL
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  • joeparaski
    joeparaski Posts: 1,865
    edited July 2010
    Don't blow the brake dust off with compressed air...you don't want to breath that stuff. Get a can of brake cleaner (spray type) and a pan to collect the gunk with.

    You may need a few whacks on the drum with a hammer to get it off because there is usually a ridge of rust that forms on the edge where the shoes don't rub.

    Don't forget to put lube on the backplate where the lining touches.

    Sand and clean the surface where the rim contacts the drum and the drum contacts the hub.

    Get the drum machined before putting them back on.

    Get the rust off from the opening between the machined surface and the outside of the drum....flakes of rust can rub along the edge of the backplate causes noise that you don't want. We use a tool called a "needle scaler", but you can use a small chisel and hammer.

    The shorter lining goes towards the front...longer in back.

    Take apart, clean and lubricate the self-adjusting mechanism (starwheel).

    Check that your handbrake cables are working properly.

    Use a new spring kit.

    Make sure the wheel cylinders work (push them inwards, if they don't move, change them.)

    Joe
    Amplifiers: 1-SAE Mark IV, 4-SAE 2400, 1-SAE 2500, 2-SAE 2600, 1-Buttkicker BKA 1000N w/2-tactile transducers. Sources: Sony BDP CX7000es, Sony CX300/CX400/CX450/CX455, SAE 8000 tuner, Akai 4000D R2R, Technics 1100A TT, Epson 8500UB with Carada 100". Speakers:Polk SDA SRS, 3.1TL, FXi5, FXi3, 2-SVS 20-29, Yamaha, SVS center sub. Power:2-Monster HTS3500, Furman M-8D & RR16 Plus. 2-SAE 4000 X-overs, SAE 5000a noise reduction, MSB Link DAC III, MSB Powerbase, Behringer 2496, Monarchy DIP 24/96.
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  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,808
    edited July 2010
    Yeah, get a pan or even a sheet of cardboard if you have to and put it under the drum when you clean it. That brake dust stains and it is a pain in the rear to get out.
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
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  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
    edited July 2010
    Got it! Thanks guys! Got all the parts and tools ready to go. I just need my wife to get home with the 'burb and let those suckers cool a little before tearing into it. Can't wait to bust my knuckles again, which seems to happen no matter what part I'm working on. :)
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited July 2010
    There's probably a "boatload" of videos on Youtube about this subject. One "tip".... try to hook the self adjuster arm ,pull it away from the assbly. and back off the adjusters. Much easier to remove the drums that way!;)
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  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
    edited July 2010
    THANKS ALL! I used nearly all of your tips in one way or another. :)

    My notes:
    1. Not a hard job, but one of the messiest!
    2. The 3-in-1 brake tool is handy. I tried punching myself in the face once until I figured out how to use the "spring installer" part. Ended up busting the side of one knuckle anyhow.
    3. One of the brake wheel cylinders was shot, so I replaced it. One more trip to the store, but I had to go anyhow, since there was a core return charge on the brake shoes. Had to bleed out some air.
    4. Took pictures - great idea Tony. I repaired an electric dryer a while back and took pictures of everything as I tore it down. Camera phones are convenient for that.
    5. The spring kit was well worth the few bucks extra.

    Thanks again guys! Club Polk - the best auto, uh I mean audio, forum around. :D

    Ed
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  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
    edited July 2010
    This is our third vehicle and usually doesn't get driven much, but my mechanic brother-in-law has had my wife's Volvo for like two months. It had an electrical (or possibly vacuum) problem that I couldn't diagnose. He's taking his time on it, because he's so busy, and I never rush him. Anyhow, she'd been driving the 'burb a lot lately and it's been developing a few problems due to actually being used...

    I had to get it ready to haul the two of us and all six kids downy o'shun hon!

    (That's Ocean City, Maryland, for those of you who don't speak Balmer-ese. ;))
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