Basic Bi-wiring vs -amping question

thetawave2
thetawave2 Posts: 268
I'm pretty new to audio equipment. I'm trying to acquire a mate for my lonely monitor 30. In the meantime, I'm wondering about hooking them up!
I will (hopefully) soon have two Monitor 30's and two old Onkyo E-75's hooked up to an Onkyo TX-DS787.
Anyway, how should I wire up the Monitor 30's? I'm not sure I'm able to clone channels, which my friend says is necessary for proper bi-amping. He also suggests bi-amping won't give me any noticeable advantage since I'm using fairly decent wiring (12 gauge copper) and an amp that isn't underpowered. I was wondering if bi-wiring would give me a better sound than single wiring with the jumper plates. Perhaps one of you will even tell me my friend is way off.... I have read of some people even using separate amps for the highs and lows because of different characteristics of the amps, so perhaps the two inputs don't need to be exact clones as he thinks.

Anyway, thanks in advance for the help!
My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers
Post edited by thetawave2 on

Comments

  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited July 2010
    IMO, bi-wiring is a waste if your wiring is up to par. Bi AMPING can clarify your setup, depending on a number of factors, including but not limited to speaker capabilities, amplifier power, listening levels, how picky you are, etc. The only way to know for sure? Try it yourself...
    TNRabbit
    NO Polk Audio Equipment :eek:
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    Carver AL-III Speakers
    Klipsch RT-12d Subwoofer
  • thetawave2
    thetawave2 Posts: 268
    edited July 2010
    Thanks for the help! I'll do some experimentation soon.
    My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers
  • thetawave2
    thetawave2 Posts: 268
    edited July 2010
    Still wondering, by the way, whether channels need to be or should be "cloned" for bi-amping....
    Anyone?
    My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers
  • thetawave2
    thetawave2 Posts: 268
    edited July 2010
    Also wondering if anyone is willing to buy or sell a single monitor 30....
    My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers
  • Mon40CSMM10
    Mon40CSMM10 Posts: 161
    edited July 2010
    I wouldn't recommend bi-wiring.

    I tried it for a while, and the only benefit that was realized when I bi-wired the Monitor 40's I am using for front mains is that the receiver ran a bit cooler. Beyond that, I found the bass was punchier for the woofers, but that also the tweeter started to get harsh when the receiver volume was turned up to a louder volume than about halfway (e.g., -43 dB on a volume scale of -94 dB to -7 dB).

    In contrast, when using the supplied jumpers the bass isn't as punchy but the tweeter also isn't as bright. This is not a problem to me since Monitor 40's used as front mains running with the jumper and not bi-wired blend in better with the PSW 110 subwoofer I am using.
  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited July 2010
    I wouldn't recommend bi-wiring.

    I tried it for a while, and the only benefit that was realized when I bi-wired the Monitor 40's I am using for front mains is that the receiver ran a bit cooler. Beyond that, I found the bass was punchier for the woofers, but that also the tweeter started to get harsh when the receiver volume was turned up to a louder volume than about halfway (e.g., -43 dB on a volume scale of -94 dB to -7 dB).

    In contrast, when using the supplied jumpers the bass isn't as punchy but the tweeter also isn't as bright. This is not a problem to me since Monitor 40's used as front mains running with the jumper and not bi-wired blend in better with the PSW 110 subwoofer I am using.

    Mon, it sounds as though your wires may have been impedance mismatched . Same type? Same length? Same connectors?
    TNRabbit
    NO Polk Audio Equipment :eek:
    Sunfire TG-IV
    Ashly 1001 Active Crossover
    Rane PEQ-15 Parametric Equalizers x 2
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature Seven
    Carver AL-III Speakers
    Klipsch RT-12d Subwoofer
  • thetawave2
    thetawave2 Posts: 268
    edited July 2010
    I tried it for a while, and the only benefit that was realized when I bi-wired the Monitor 40's I am using for front mains is that the receiver ran a bit cooler. Beyond that, I found the bass was punchier for the woofers, but that also the tweeter started to get harsh when the receiver volume was turned up to a louder volume than about halfway (e.g., -43 dB on a volume scale of -94 dB to -7 dB).

    In addition to my own use, these are going to be used at some rockin college parties. Punchy bass would be nice, but these things are going to be running pretty darn loud and I don't want the tweeters getting harsh. We have a pretty great sub for punchy bass, anyway. Also, my receiver is going to be running plenty cool with its built-in fan supplemented by external fans.
    Thanks for the input!
    My Stereo: Tannoy D100s, Yaqin MC-100B, VPI Traveler, Dynavector 10x5 MC Phono Cartridge, heavily modified Yaqin MS-22B phono preamp, TEAC EQA-20 equalizer, Belkin PureAV PF30 Power Conditioner, Canare 4s11 speaker cables, Custom dust cover from DigitalDeckCovers
  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
    edited July 2010
    Personally, for my level of gear, I'm happy replacing the jumpers with a couple of short pieces of good quality speaker wire and running a single (quality) speaker wire (from a decent amp) to each speaker. That's just me.
  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
    edited July 2010
    thetawave2 wrote: »
    In addition to my own use, these are going to be used at some rockin college parties.
    Things have changed... in my day, a rockin' college party usually involved at least a pair of 3 to 4 foot floorstanding speakers with 15" woofers! :)
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited July 2010
    This thread by me will give an idea of how bi-amping your rig can produce excellent results.

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50391

    Also, bi-wiring by just using four sets of speaker wire for the two channels is useless IMHO unless you are using MIT bi-wire cables where they have the network boxes for the highs and the network boxes for the lows. I use MIT bi-wires and I have to tell you they really made my 1.2TLs come alive.
  • TECHNOKID
    TECHNOKID Posts: 4,298
    edited March 2011
    thetawave2 wrote: »
    Also wondering if anyone is willing to buy or sell a single monitor 30....
    Keep an eye open on the For Sale Forum here at Club Polk as with patience you will eventually find a good deal to match your budget and requirement.

    BTW, for bi-amping you need external amps and if you are thinking about bi-amping your Monitor 40s, IMO you do not have much to gain in doing so.
    DARE TO SOAR:
    “Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life” ;)
  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited March 2011
    TNRabbit wrote: »
    Mon, it sounds as though your wires may have been impedance mismatched . Same type? Same length? Same connectors?
    Agree.. I've never heard of bi-wiring degrading sound... Improving or making no difference? Yes. But making worse? No.

    tw2,
    Best advice has already been given... play with the various alternatives and judge for yourself.

    By "cloning channels" are you referring to Y-splitting the Pre-amp output? If yes, then yes, you may need to do this depending on your pre...
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited March 2011
    This thread by me will give an idea of how bi-amping your rig can produce excellent results.

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50391

    Also, bi-wiring by just using four sets of speaker wire for the two channels is useless IMHO unless you are using MIT bi-wire cables where they have the network boxes for the highs and the network boxes for the lows. I use MIT bi-wires and I have to tell you they really made my 1.2TLs come alive.

    Another TRUE bi-amping thread:

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103183&highlight=active
    TNRabbit
    NO Polk Audio Equipment :eek:
    Sunfire TG-IV
    Ashly 1001 Active Crossover
    Rane PEQ-15 Parametric Equalizers x 2
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature Seven
    Carver AL-III Speakers
    Klipsch RT-12d Subwoofer
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited March 2011
  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited March 2011
    TNRabbit wrote: »
    Another TRUE bi-amping thread...

    True... smoo... It's active vs passive. Nice write up though and excellent taste in Amps.

    And yes, Carver ribbons do dislike humidity. Ted's were buzzing when I picked them up for him in Houston, but once they "dried out" at his place... no more buzz.
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
  • Hawkeye
    Hawkeye Posts: 1,313
    edited March 2011
    I think a bi-wire for the most part is a waste of time. Unless you try different wires on the top and bottom. Running the same wire (copper from the same manufacturer) to the tops and bottoms gains you nothing. However, if one used say copper on the bottom and silver on the top, you may find some difference.

    I've tried copper on the bottom and silver on the top and to me there was a difference. I also tried it the other way around and found another difference. After it was all said and done, I settled on a copper, single wired speaker wire with jumpers from the same line. To me, audio bliss!!

    Gordon
    2 Channel -
    Martin Logan Spire, 2 JL Audio F112 subs
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