Should I use Direct Sub Drive for factory sub + MM6501?

SivaNevets
SivaNevets Posts: 303
edited July 2010 in Car Audio & Electronics
Thanks guys for the replies. I finally figured something out made some moves.
I recently purchased MM6501 online and metrokit,harness and antenna adapter for my merc 2002 c240 without bose.

I also bought Pioneer 8200BT because i like the look. I realized theres a feature on this headunit called Direct Sub Drive that you can use one of the rear channel for your sub. Theres a factory sub, paper made, super shallow 8 inch in the trunck, but the sound is actually better than nothing.

Because im not a big base fun and want to take the most out of my hu. Im thinking just use the front component, leave rear empty and use the direct sub drive to drive the factory sub (it is driving now by factory cassetee head unit which is even worse but sound ok).

i dont have the money to upgrade the amp rightnow, maybe in the future. so by doing this it will make mm6501 easier on to drive? i only listen to music and low to mid volume.

ill book the install on next sunday everything should arrive by then.

wut u guys think? hu+mm6501 or hu+mm6501+factory sub?

can i try to bi-amp from the hu?
Front: Martinlogan ESL
Center: Martinlogan Stage
Rear: Martinlogan Motion 4
Sub: Martinlogan Grotto-I
Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC 1523K

PC 2 Channel: Polk LSI7
Headset: Grado RS2 + Grado RA1 amp
Mic: Neumann KMS605

Car Audio
2002 MB C240 Sedan
MM6501 components
MM840 sub
MB Quart Onyx 4.60 (1/2 to components, 3/4 bridged to sub)
Pioneer 8200BT HU
Post edited by SivaNevets on

Comments

  • Installer4life
    Installer4life Posts: 256
    edited July 2010
    Definately keep the factory subwoofer. I would not do the direct sub to it though. Even though Pioneer says it will work it still will not be very much power. I think you should be able to keep the factory sub/amp combo in the car pretty much as it is. I would wire up the metra harness and then listen to the system. I don't see any reason for the factory subwoofer not to play. If it has a seperate input (there might be and addtional plug on the back of the factory radio) you should still be able to find out what the inut wires are and wire it to the subwoofer preamp output of the pioneer deck..
  • SivaNevets
    SivaNevets Posts: 303
    edited July 2010
    thanks for the reply, my factory amp is actually in the casette player, which i believe is worse (and less power) than the pioneer hu, and the sound came out wasnt that terrible. if i replace the hu, factory amp (or theres no factory amp) is gone.

    so i only expect better bass performance when i switch the hu. guess ill keep the factory sub and cross it at 80hz then. hopefully it will save mm6501 a bit more power
    Front: Martinlogan ESL
    Center: Martinlogan Stage
    Rear: Martinlogan Motion 4
    Sub: Martinlogan Grotto-I
    Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC 1523K

    PC 2 Channel: Polk LSI7
    Headset: Grado RS2 + Grado RA1 amp
    Mic: Neumann KMS605

    Car Audio
    2002 MB C240 Sedan
    MM6501 components
    MM840 sub
    MB Quart Onyx 4.60 (1/2 to components, 3/4 bridged to sub)
    Pioneer 8200BT HU
  • Installer4life
    Installer4life Posts: 256
    edited July 2010
    Thats a new one on me. l have never seen a Mercedes with a sub amp built into the casette player and I have seen a lot of Mercedes.
  • SivaNevets
    SivaNevets Posts: 303
    edited July 2010
    i hope not, otherwise futureshop is gonna charge me additional $45 to bypass the factory amp
    Front: Martinlogan ESL
    Center: Martinlogan Stage
    Rear: Martinlogan Motion 4
    Sub: Martinlogan Grotto-I
    Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC 1523K

    PC 2 Channel: Polk LSI7
    Headset: Grado RS2 + Grado RA1 amp
    Mic: Neumann KMS605

    Car Audio
    2002 MB C240 Sedan
    MM6501 components
    MM840 sub
    MB Quart Onyx 4.60 (1/2 to components, 3/4 bridged to sub)
    Pioneer 8200BT HU