Working w/ 12 volt audio Help

praedet
praedet Posts: 314
edited July 2010 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
All right, so I am journeying into both the DIY audio world, and the 12 volt audio realm. I am chronicling my progress in this thread and started with the DODD Audio DIY Battery Tube Buffer.

So I am building a battery powered amp next. I will at some point do a battery DAC too.

To run all these things, I have a single 60 AH 12 volt battery. From talking to Gary Dodd, that should be more than enough. I have a CTEK trickle smart charger to use as needed.

So here is what I am having trouble with. I want to build an enclosure to house the battery. I plan on having a voltage meter on the front of it, and then Neutik power connectors on the back. 4 outputs for components, and one input for the charger.

So, what all do I need to fuse? The Buffer is fused. Do I need another one at the output from the battery? Do I run all of the outputs through a fuse, and the charger input through another one?

What gauge wiring should I run inside the battery enclosure, and then to the components?

I will have 2 switches so I can cut the power from the charger with a switch and also cut the power to the voltage meter and the outputs. Do I need to look for a high current switch?

Thanks for the help folks, I am trying to learn as I go ;)
HT: Ninja Master LSi9s, Ninja Master LSiC, Slightly Modded LSiFXs, Modded LSi7s, Outlaw LFM-1 EX and Polk PSW125
Outlaw 970 Preamp, Outlaw 7700 Amp, Velodyne SMS-1, Oppo BDP-83,
2 APC H-15s and a Panamax 5400 for good measure ;)
Stereo: DIY Alix Music Server, DODD Audio Battery Tube Buffer, Modded DAC-60 and MF V-Link (for now), DIY Silver ICs, Battery Powered Class D SDS-254 Amp, and GR-Research N2X Speakers
Post edited by praedet on
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  • praedet
    praedet Posts: 314
    edited July 2010
    anyone?
    HT: Ninja Master LSi9s, Ninja Master LSiC, Slightly Modded LSiFXs, Modded LSi7s, Outlaw LFM-1 EX and Polk PSW125
    Outlaw 970 Preamp, Outlaw 7700 Amp, Velodyne SMS-1, Oppo BDP-83,
    2 APC H-15s and a Panamax 5400 for good measure ;)
    Stereo: DIY Alix Music Server, DODD Audio Battery Tube Buffer, Modded DAC-60 and MF V-Link (for now), DIY Silver ICs, Battery Powered Class D SDS-254 Amp, and GR-Research N2X Speakers
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  • jrgoswick
    jrgoswick Posts: 159
    edited July 2010
    Use a DPDT to isolate the load and the charger. THEN fuse the load side at the battery. No worries then mate.
    Onkyo TX-SR705 AVR
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    Polk Monitor 12's with RDO's and XO's
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  • praedet
    praedet Posts: 314
    edited July 2010
    Thanks!
    HT: Ninja Master LSi9s, Ninja Master LSiC, Slightly Modded LSiFXs, Modded LSi7s, Outlaw LFM-1 EX and Polk PSW125
    Outlaw 970 Preamp, Outlaw 7700 Amp, Velodyne SMS-1, Oppo BDP-83,
    2 APC H-15s and a Panamax 5400 for good measure ;)
    Stereo: DIY Alix Music Server, DODD Audio Battery Tube Buffer, Modded DAC-60 and MF V-Link (for now), DIY Silver ICs, Battery Powered Class D SDS-254 Amp, and GR-Research N2X Speakers
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  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited July 2010
    I'd use a single pole, double throw(SPDT) to make things easier.

    Connect battery ground, charger ground, and amp ground straight together.

    The battery then gets the common terminal(middle pin usually) on the switch. Two prongs left: one to charger, one to amp.

    Figure that 14 ga is good for 15 amps, 12 ga about 20 amps, and 10 ga 35 amps. 15 amps is equal to about 180 watts at 12 volts.
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