Rti10's may only be good for movies

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Kchill
Kchill Posts: 262
edited June 2010 in Speakers
My ears is starting to grow tired of the brightness of the 10 when I play music. I want a warmer polk. I have r50's and may switch them around to see if that makes a difference. Or should I get a pair of bookshelf and run them in zone 2?
Retired Onkyo 520 (returned broken HK 247)
Now a Pioneer 1018
CSi3
2- RTI10's
2- R50's
2- Fxi3's
Onkyo 250W Sub
Polk psw-10

"Inch by inch lifes a cinch, yard by yard life is hard"
Post edited by Kchill on

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  • kawizx9r
    kawizx9r Posts: 5,150
    edited June 2010
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    Probably a dumb question but, are the RTi10's broken in?

    I haven't heard them myself so I can't comment whether the brightness can be tamed much or not.
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  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,164
    edited June 2010
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    I thought that, too, but I'm quite happy with my current setup. RTi10s with Yamaha and Emotiva didn't work for me. Things are better now. These babies can sing rather nicely. IMHO, these must be paired with a warmer source.

    Edit: I see the HK didn't work out so well for you. I'd recommend giving them another shot.
    I'm stopping at this post count tonight. :eek:
  • Ric5811
    Ric5811 Posts: 400
    edited June 2010
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    Kchill wrote: »
    My ears is starting to grow tired of the brightness of the 10 when I play music. I want a warmer polk. I have r50's and may switch them around to see if that makes a difference. Or should I get a pair of bookshelf and run them in zone 2?

    Hmm, well my short experience so far has been to go the seperates route. There are probably very few recievers out there that will roll them back a bit, NAD should, HK, used Arcam.

    I went with a warm amp and a very neutral pre/pro. Loving it so far!
    Polk RTi A7's FrontPolk CSi A4 CenterPolk Tsi 100's SurroundOnkyo TX-RZ50:)Oppo BDP 83 (Collecting dust)MIT Terminator 3 Speaker CableMIT Terminator 2 IC's (Oppo 2 chan)Signal Cable HT TWOEpson PowerLite Home Cinema 1080Hisense 55 U8GBelkin PF 60 Power Center
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 33,077
    edited June 2010
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    What kind of cables and IC's are you using ?
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • bopicasso
    bopicasso Posts: 878
    edited June 2010
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    They are very bright for music. Unless you have a very warm amp and copper cables. I went from RTI8s to Dynaudio and have never looked back. Huge improvement!
    Living Room setup: Pioneer Elite VSX-21TXH, Krell KAV 300i, PS Audio DL III DAC, Tyler Acoustics Taylo 7u, Dynaudio Audience 120C+, SVS 25/31PCI, B-P-T Clean Power Center, Ps3, Panny 50" S1 Plasma, Tekline speaker cables, Audio Art interconnects, and Pangea power cables.
  • Kchill
    Kchill Posts: 262
    edited June 2010
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    So what amp should I get....would love to stay under 400 bucks for one that will power my 3 fronts. Thanks
    Retired Onkyo 520 (returned broken HK 247)
    Now a Pioneer 1018
    CSi3
    2- RTI10's
    2- R50's
    2- Fxi3's
    Onkyo 250W Sub
    Polk psw-10

    "Inch by inch lifes a cinch, yard by yard life is hard"
  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,164
    edited June 2010
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    The brightness can be tamed and these speakers can be decent for music, however, Polk designed the RT (and RTi and RTiA) series for HT... (RT refers to "Reference Theater"), although they have touted the musicality of these speakers, too. Just keep in mind that they are a compromise. Few, if any, serious 2-channel listeners would go with RTi series speakers as their ultimate solution, however, I believe that they can be configured quite well in a dual-use system.
  • bopicasso
    bopicasso Posts: 878
    edited June 2010
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    if you want to add 150 you can get the b&k 4430 which is a very laid back amp. It will definately take the edge off your rti speakers. The sale is for 550 obo so you can offer him less and see what happens.
    http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?ampsmult&1281980242&/B-K-4430-THX-balanced
    Living Room setup: Pioneer Elite VSX-21TXH, Krell KAV 300i, PS Audio DL III DAC, Tyler Acoustics Taylo 7u, Dynaudio Audience 120C+, SVS 25/31PCI, B-P-T Clean Power Center, Ps3, Panny 50" S1 Plasma, Tekline speaker cables, Audio Art interconnects, and Pangea power cables.
  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,164
    edited June 2010
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    Kchill wrote: »
    So what amp should I get....would love to stay under 400 bucks for one that will power my 3 fronts. Thanks

    It may not be as simple as just adding an amp. My experience has been that everything in the chain affects the brightness of these speakers, so you must consider the AVR and ICs, as well as the amp, and the synergy created by the combination of all of these - not to mention the type of music and your source. It took quite a bit of experimenting and probably luck to get to where I'm satisfied with the performance of my RTi10s for music. Again, not the best, but I've definitely been able to mitigate the brightness/harshness/nails on chalkboard effect that was making me want to get rid of them. All along, they've been wonderful performers for HT.
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 20,239
    edited June 2010
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    Instead of going balls to the wall, try this for less than $5. Add a resistor in line with the positive tap on the tweeters for both speakers. 1 ohm.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,164
    edited June 2010
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    treitz3 wrote: »
    Instead of going balls to the wall, try this for less than $5. Add a resistor in line with the positive tap on the tweeters for both speakers. 1 ohm.

    I've heard this recommendation before (Jesse?)... and it interests me. However, I've no experience with internal speaker components. Anyone know where something similar to this (as opposed to a crossover upgrade) might be documented? Also, is this something that's easily reversed if I don't like the effect?
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 20,239
    edited June 2010
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    If you have a soldering iron, solder and shrink wrap, it will take about 10 minutes if you know what you are doing. Yes, it is very easily reversed and this is basically a crossover adjustment to help tame the brightness. If the 1 ohm doesn't float you boat, a .75 ohm or 1.25 ohm resistor could be used instead. Play around with some to find what your preferences are. 1 ohm is just a good starting point.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • Kchill
    Kchill Posts: 262
    edited June 2010
    Options
    Retired Onkyo 520 (returned broken HK 247)
    Now a Pioneer 1018
    CSi3
    2- RTI10's
    2- R50's
    2- Fxi3's
    Onkyo 250W Sub
    Polk psw-10

    "Inch by inch lifes a cinch, yard by yard life is hard"