Cleaning component face plates

Lil'Abbey
Lil'Abbey Posts: 50
edited June 2010 in Electronics
What is the best way to clean the aluminum/steel face plates of various components? I tried using a bit of water sprayed onto one of those micro fibre towels. It helped but still does not look like new. I was thinking of using those alcohol wipes I use to clean my reading glasses with. Would that be to harsh?
Post edited by Lil'Abbey on
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  • Mr. Sharpe
    Mr. Sharpe Posts: 1,359
    edited June 2010
    I don't use alcohol wipes, but I do use stuff like that blue window cleaning stuff and it's kept my stereo receiver new looking in my opinion. I guess you could use Windex but I just use the bottle that says "glass cleaner":)
    Home theater:
    43” Westinghouse Displayer
    Marantz UD-7007 Player
    Emotiva MC-700 Processor
    Adcom GFA-5006 Amplifier
    Parasound Zamp Amplifier
    Ethereal ESO-1 Power Conditioner
    Klipsch RC-10 Center
    Klipsch R34c Fronts
    Klipsch RB-41 Surrounds
    Polk audio PSW-505

    Stereo:
    Polk audio RTA-12c’s fully upgraded crossovers
    DIY 12tc braided speaker cables
    Denon DVD-5910ci Spinner
    Parasound P6 Preamplifer
    Parasound HCA -1500a Amplifier
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  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 7,477
    edited June 2010
    I've restored a lot of vintage gear. Most of the time, you are dealing with anodized aluminum. If so, I typically start weak, and get stronger until you get the results you are looking for. If water alone doesn't work, try soapy water; if that doesn't work, then move to Windex or Glass Plus; If that doesn't work, I usually break out the car care products. I start with a gentle cleaner wax. If that doesn't work, I move to good ole Turtle Wax Car Polish (white/green tub). If that doesn't clean up the finish, nothing will. Beyond that is rubbing compound which I would not use because it would take away too much of the finish.

    The same steps should work for a painted steel finish as well.

    Use special care on/around the lettering. I've seen the lettering rub off if you are too aggressive. Also be careful if some areas are plastic. You don't want to get the wax/polish on the plastic because it will discolor.

    BTW, it is always easier to clean these face plates if you totally remove them from the piece of electronics.

    Good luck.
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  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited June 2010
    DO NOT use Windex or any other harsh chemical (ammonia, etc.)!!! Pure alcohol works fine, however.

    Black/dark anodized faceplates can turn a lovely shade of "pink" when repeatedly cleaned with glass cleaners containing ammonia...
    TNRabbit
    NO Polk Audio Equipment :eek:
    Sunfire TG-IV
    Ashly 1001 Active Crossover
    Rane PEQ-15 Parametric Equalizers x 2
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature Seven
    Carver AL-III Speakers
    Klipsch RT-12d Subwoofer
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  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 7,477
    edited June 2010
    TNRabbit wrote: »
    DO NOT use Windex or any other harsh chemical (ammonia, etc.)!!! Pure alcohol works fine, however.

    Black/dark anodized faceplates can turn a lovely shade of "pink" when repeatedly cleaned with glass cleaners containing ammonia...

    With repeated cleanings, yes, the black dye will oxidize and turn purplish. This happens especially if the anodized coating is not properly sealed. Wax can help re-seal the finish.

    However, for a one time, grunge cleaning/restoration, there is no reason to fear ammonia. I've used concentrated Bo Peep mixed 50/50 with water and never had any negative results.

    I always wrap up my restoration cleanings with a good coat of wax on the surfaces to reseal the anodizing.

    For maintenance cleanings/dusting, I don't recommend anything other than a damp rag.
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  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited June 2010
    DO NOT use Windex or any other harsh chemical (ammonia, etc.)!!! Pure alcohol works fine, however.

    Black/dark anodized faceplates can turn a lovely shade of "pink" when repeatedly cleaned with glass cleaners containing ammonia...
    TNRabbit
    NO Polk Audio Equipment :eek:
    Sunfire TG-IV
    Ashly 1001 Active Crossover
    Rane PEQ-15 Parametric Equalizers x 2
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature Seven
    Carver AL-III Speakers
    Klipsch RT-12d Subwoofer
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,409
    edited June 2010
    Endust makes an exterior electronic component cleaner. I've used that for years. It works well and doesn't leave any sort of residue and it doesn't seem to harm any lettering, etc.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Puritan Audio PSM136 Pwr Condtioner & Classic PC's | Legend L600 | Roon Nucleus 1 w/LPS - Tubes add soul!
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,409
    edited June 2010
    TNRabbit wrote: »
    DO NOT use Windex or any other harsh chemical (ammonia, etc.)!!! Pure alcohol works fine, however.

    Black/dark anodized faceplates can turn a lovely shade of "pink" when repeatedly cleaned with glass cleaners containing ammonia...

    Except pure alcohol can ruin any lettering or stenciling.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Puritan Audio PSM136 Pwr Condtioner & Classic PC's | Legend L600 | Roon Nucleus 1 w/LPS - Tubes add soul!
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,409
    edited June 2010
    http://endustelectronics.com/
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Puritan Audio PSM136 Pwr Condtioner & Classic PC's | Legend L600 | Roon Nucleus 1 w/LPS - Tubes add soul!
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  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,650
    edited June 2010
    I use methyl hydrate.
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  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited June 2010
    DO NOT use Windex or any other harsh chemical (ammonia, etc.)!!! Pure alcohol works fine, however.

    Black/dark anodized faceplates can turn a lovely shade of "pink" when repeatedly cleaned with glass cleaners containing ammonia...
    TNRabbit
    NO Polk Audio Equipment :eek:
    Sunfire TG-IV
    Ashly 1001 Active Crossover
    Rane PEQ-15 Parametric Equalizers x 2
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature Seven
    Carver AL-III Speakers
    Klipsch RT-12d Subwoofer
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,409
    edited June 2010
    TNRabbit wrote: »
    DO NOT use Windex or any other harsh chemical (ammonia, etc.)!!! Pure alcohol works fine, however.

    Black/dark anodized faceplates can turn a lovely shade of "pink" when repeatedly cleaned with glass cleaners containing ammonia...
    TNRabbit wrote: »
    DO NOT use Windex or any other harsh chemical (ammonia, etc.)!!! Pure alcohol works fine, however.

    Black/dark anodized faceplates can turn a lovely shade of "pink" when repeatedly cleaned with glass cleaners containing ammonia...

    Ummmmmmm....yeah I think we hear you!!
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Puritan Audio PSM136 Pwr Condtioner & Classic PC's | Legend L600 | Roon Nucleus 1 w/LPS - Tubes add soul!
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  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 7,477
    edited June 2010
    Three times?
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,409
    edited June 2010
    Hey TNRabbit, should we use ammonia based cleaners on faceplates? I'm not sure?

















    :D
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Puritan Audio PSM136 Pwr Condtioner & Classic PC's | Legend L600 | Roon Nucleus 1 w/LPS - Tubes add soul!
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  • Lil'Abbey
    Lil'Abbey Posts: 50
    edited June 2010
    Thanks for all the tips!
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,952
    edited June 2010
    Dude, just get a Stoner product called "Invisible Glass" and call it a day.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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  • dkg999
    dkg999 Posts: 5,647
    edited June 2010
    I've used Windex for 30 yrs to clean audio gear faceplates and cases. I've never had it discolor anything. Exposure to strong sunlight is usually the culprit on discoloration.

    I agree with H9 on the endust electronic cleaner, good stuff.

    They do make a non-ammonia version of Windex if that makes anyone feel better!
    DKG999
    HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED

    Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC
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