Monitor7 Series2 upgrade process
dane_peterson
Posts: 1,903
I searched using a few different words, but couldn't come up with anything for this model. Seen numerous 5's/7's/10's crossover upgrades... just not the newer ones.
My quest began last week, as I picked up a pair of Black Ash Mon7 SeriesII speakers. Wood grain is in pretty good shape, though I'd like to try reveneering someday. Don't expect to see that in this thread, though.
Applied Mortite to the drivers already, and dynamat on the PR. For those of you looking to do this upgrade... save the Mortite for LAST. This may seem obvious, but I was excited to get cracking on these, and the Dynamat/Mortite was all I had available to begin the mods. Now I'll have to yank them off to get the drivers reconnected after the Crossover is finished.
Upgrades on order:
Polk RD0198-1 Replacement tweeters
Sonic Craft Sonicap Gen1 capacitors
Yet to order (from PartsExpress):
Mills Resistors
Binding Posts
My quest began last week, as I picked up a pair of Black Ash Mon7 SeriesII speakers. Wood grain is in pretty good shape, though I'd like to try reveneering someday. Don't expect to see that in this thread, though.
Applied Mortite to the drivers already, and dynamat on the PR. For those of you looking to do this upgrade... save the Mortite for LAST. This may seem obvious, but I was excited to get cracking on these, and the Dynamat/Mortite was all I had available to begin the mods. Now I'll have to yank them off to get the drivers reconnected after the Crossover is finished.
Upgrades on order:
Polk RD0198-1 Replacement tweeters
Sonic Craft Sonicap Gen1 capacitors
Yet to order (from PartsExpress):
Mills Resistors
Binding Posts
Post edited by dane_peterson on
Comments
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Dynamat EXTREME installed on Passive Radiator
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27uF on left, 12uf on top, 8uF on right. Need to disassemble to double-check resistor rating.
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Polk really coated these with glue!! Any suggestions for removal?
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:Greetings Dane!
Wait until you see the size of the 27 uF Sonicap. It's one big ****. The board will have to go inside the cabinet through the passive radiator hole. I don't think it's going back in through the binding post hole. It should sound great! Good luck and report back when the mods are complete.:)Carl -
Thanks Carl. I've been through this once before with my Monitor 10s... Excited to have some speakers under the knife again. I'll continue to upload photos throughout the steps so others can benefit from this project in the future.
Here's a photo of the board stripped of everything being replaced.
Note: For removal of the old parts, I found it easiest to clip the leads, heat up the solder, and pull the wires once they loosen up. (I don't have an unsoldering gun) This task can be rather cumbersome unless you have the board held by someone/something. I didn't dare ask my wife to step in, though.
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Looking good"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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They're looking great!
I really need to get off my **** and get the XO mods rolling on my speakers...:cool:
If only these damn capacitors weren't so expensive...:(The nirvana inducer-
APC H10 Power Conditioner
Marantz UD5005 universal player
Parasound Halo P5 preamp
Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's -
I just ordered (before I got the boot at work) all Sonicaps for these for under $140. Perhaps not cheap, but I thought it was a pretty fair price... (that included their 15% off deal) You can always mix and match highs/lows depending on budget, too.
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schwarcw is totally right. I drew the dimensions of the 27uF cap on a sheet of paper for perspective. This sheet is completely level with the Xover board!! :eek:
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Got my order from Sonic Craft today. Still waiting on binding posts and resistors, which should be here in the next couple days. Except for the 27uF, I got the other caps soldered in. Trying to figure out how I can install it AND screw the plate down on the plastic (the screws are inaccessible underneath the cap)
The good news is, I did a test fit, and I CAN put these in through the back. No finagling with front access required. Just have to kind of wedge the 27uF cap in first. -
Got my PartsExpress order in today... installed the new binding posts, and finished assembling the crossovers. I also redid all the Mortite, as I had left the factory gaskets on before and thought it better they be removed.
They look great... but I'm underwhelmed with the sound. I believe a lot of it has to do with placement (they're far too low for optimal listening) and the SL3000s. Not a fan of their "tinniness". I'm sure as the caps break in, this will improve slightly. But I still do need to get the RD0198s. (The purchase of my 1Cs set that back...) -
You thread inspired me to hook my monitor 7's back up in my 2 channel. I can't believe how much bass these thing have. I also have monitor 5's but the midrange is much nicer on the 7s.
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Never underestimate a pair of Monitor 7s. The other night watching my Incubus BD sounded pretty anemic... Now I'm listening to Jamiroquai through the Pio Elite, and it's very enjoyable. I trust that RD0198s, and putty & spikes on the stands would make this even better.
Gotta get my 1Cs next to 'em and do a side by side!! -
Those caps will break in the longer you play them, too. Give it some time!Ludicrous gibs!
