3 car care ?'s

Echosphere

1. Do you take your car to Jiffy Lube or change it yourself?

2. Synthetic or dinosaur oil?

3. How often, what are your intervals?

Jstas

Jiffy Lube is a tool of the Devil.

I use synthetic but I do not have a "normal" vehicle. Either one will do fine, whatever your budget can handle. Just make sure you recycle your waste oil.

I change mine between 3000 and 5000 miles. Any more and you risk your filter getting too dirty and hitting the bypass valve and then it doesn't do anything. Even if you have 10,000 mile oil in your crankcase, you still only have a 5,000 mile oil filter at best.

Knucklehead

I can attest to the fact that John does not have a "normal" vehicle, superchargers sound awesome.

TNRabbit

Full synthetic, only Mobil One or Purolator filters, and I ALWAYS change it myself because there are so many ignorant grease monkeys out there it's not even funny. I change every 5-8k miles; I've had oil analysis done & the oil is still good then. Filter more often, about halfway through.

Both my vehicles have over a quarter of a million miles (240k & 290k), so I'm doing something right...

ViperZ

Mobil1 Synthetic with K&N filters, we always change oil/filter ourselves. Every 4000 miles (6400 km). One car is at 260K km (162K miles), the other is at 166K km (104K miles).

I simply do not trust a-holes at the "quick oil change" spots. Sometimes they "forget" to change the filter, sometimes they use "different" oil, plus those "mechanics" have screwed up the thread on my oil pan, so I had to put a helicoil in there when I bought the car.

exalted512

I had a 'free oil change' at a place locally. I asked to upgrade to mobil 1...and stupid me didnt ask how much...my free oil change cost me $80.

I'll never take my cars back to that place and i will continue to do it myself...that was ******* rediculous.
-Cody

Echosphere

Thanks for the advice folks. I've got a 2001 VW Golf with 120k miles on it and just bought some full synthetic Mobile One 0W40 Euro formula and a Mobile One filter.

Got into a bit of an argument with my pop who is convinced that synthetic isn't worth the extra dollars (yelled at me for spending $6 bucks a bottle...) and that it should ALWAYS be done at 3,000 miles intervals.

I'm planning on doing it every 5,000 miles. No reason to waste the wallet and too much oil out there as it is right now... So, appreciate the confirmation.

Seems as if I could go longer, but that the oil filter is the crucial part in this?
A friend goes full synth intervals of 10,0000 miles. Changes the filter every 5,000. Not sure how he gets that things off without it all spilling out..

Went to autozone and they had a deal. $25 off 5 bottles of any Mobile One with a Mobile One oil filter. Plus, I had a $20 rewards left to use. $60 minus $25 minus $20. Paid $15!

Planning on doing a timing belt and water pump change. Got the oil and that VW G12 Coolant stuff. Wish me luck!

Btw, forgot to mention in my original post to share your worst Jiffy Lube-ish horror story!

I've never had anything but bad experience with them! First time I went I didn't know much about cars. They checked all kinds of stuff "complimentary" of course. Came to find out later that my batter cover and 3 bolts on the air filter box were missing. Idiots. They also asked if wanted a coolant flush, change the air filter and cabin filter cause it all looked bad. Luckily I was at least smart enough to remember I had just gotten those done with my regular maintenance service at the stealership. So I said no. Whew!

2nd time I went there I was a bit smarter. Of course the same fool asked if I wanted a coolant flush, and said no. While I was in the waiting room a nice lady came in. I quickly told her that in 10 seconds a guy would come in asking if she wanted a coolant flush and to tell him no. I had to whisper and she looked at me like a creepy nutcase. Sure enough, literally 5 second later "Mam, coolant looks bad, we should do a flush" She smiled at me then and said "No thank you sir" lol :mad: :cool:

After that I decided to change the oil myself...

Btw, I think they use a type of vacuum hose to suck it all out? When I did the oil change myself for the first time I noticed that the drain plug was still stock on there with some orange type factory glue and the seal hadn't been broken yet?

Almost forgot! Last night while prepping my car for a timing belt change (just got the left motor mount out of the way, sheesh..) I noticed my neighbors car had a light shining down from the engine bay. So I went over and knocked on his door to let him know some light was left on. We go to pop the hood to find a JiffyLube flashlight on the left side of the engine bay dangling precipitously above his exposed accessory/serpentine belt. He had gotten an oil change yesterday for a very LONG drive today to see relatives on the other side of washington state and thought it good to get the oil done for the drive. Anyways, he goes "cool, free flashlight" I go "Not cool, do you know what that would have done if it had gotten jammed into your belt on the freeway?" He goes, ummm no, what does that belt do. After I explained what it is connected to he got the picture.

Ok, anyone else have horror stories?

ViperZ

Echosphere wrote: »

Btw, I think they use a type of vacuum hose to suck it all out? When I did the oil change myself for the first time I noticed that the drain plug was still stock on there with some orange type factory glue and the seal hadn't been broken yet?

If you are talking oil change, just make sure that your engine is nice and warm (do the change after a good drive). Then you don't need any hoses and vaccums...

Regarding how your friend changes filter without changing oil. I've seen a mod for my car, where you can move your oil filter to the higher location, so you can easily pop it out from under the hood and replace it with the new filter. Nice idea, but I didn't feel that I wanted to do all that work.

And if you do want a "safer" oil change - install a Fumoto oil drain valve. You will never have to worry about the thread on soft aluminum oil pan. Oil draining takes a couple minutes longer, but you actually save time, since you don't remove the drain plug and put it back in. And it's cleaner too...
http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/
Installed it so far on three of our cars - works like a charm.

McLoki

I purchase synthetic oil (usually Pennzoil Platinum) and take it to my dealer. They provide the filter and the labor and charge me about $8 for the change using my oil.

A good deal all around imo. I change it every 5,000 miles. (just because it is easy to remember)

Michael

Echosphere

Thanks ViperZ! I was wondering what would happen if I stripped the threading on the pan... Bookmarked it and plan to buy it next paycheck! Where do I send your commission to?

Btw, is there a reason why the engine has to be warm? Something bad if not, or does it just help it to flow out better? Reason I ask is because it's on stand now while I attempt my first timing belt change.

Michael, that is a good deal! Nice!

joeparaski

ViperZ wrote: »

If you are talking oil change, just make sure that your engine is nice and warm (do the change after a good drive). Then you don't need any hoses and vaccums...

Regarding how your friend changes filter without changing oil. I've seen a mod for my car, where you can move your oil filter to the higher location, so you can easily pop it out from under the hood and replace it with the new filter. Nice idea, but I didn't feel that I wanted to do all that work.

And if you do want a "safer" oil change - install a Fumoto oil drain valve. You will never have to worry about the thread on soft aluminum oil pan. Oil draining takes a couple minutes longer, but you actually save time, since you don't remove the drain plug and put it back in. And it's cleaner too...
http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/
Installed it so far on three of our cars - works like a charm.

I'd have to advise AGAINST that drain valve...at least for most cars. If the drain plug on the oil pan is facing down, then adding that valve increases the risk of it getting knocked off by things such as speed bumps in parking lots and other obstacles. It's no problem if the stock drain plug is on the side or rear of the oil pan.

Joe

joeparaski

Echosphere wrote: »

Thanks ViperZ! I was wondering what would happen if I stripped the threading on the pan... Bookmarked it and plan to buy it next paycheck! Where do I send your commission to?

Btw, is there a reason why the engine has to be warm? Something bad if not, or does it just help it to flow out better? Reason I ask is because it's on stand now while I attempt my first timing belt change.

Michael, that is a good deal! Nice!

Did you remember to pick up a cam seal and crank seal? If there is any sign of even a slight leak, then that is the time to change them..when you've got the timing belt off. Same thing for the water pump...if you've got lots of mileage and its the original, change the pump while you're at it.

Joe

TNRabbit

FYI: you can get Mobil One oil in 5 quart containers at WalMart for around $20 on sale, regularly about $25.

schutz2106

Between 3- 5000 miles.Depends on when I have time. I Use Mobil 1 syn that I pick up at walmart for $21 for 5 quarts. Syn lasts a long time but it comes down to the issue of contaminants that get in your oil. You could change the filter and prolong it but an extra $ 21 for oil really isnt that much in the grand scheme of things. I was the service manager of a full line gm dealer for 13 years. But now I stick mail in a box... Boring.... I wont let anyone else touch my car. I saw what good (lube techs) did and things did get screwed up from time to time. So I just do it myself now.. Time and upsell are a paycheck for these guys and they have to work quickly and upsell to make a living. I did drop a tranny in my suburban 1 time and let a dealer stick one in since I was 10 hours from home. But I got a break on the part price. Most gm replacement parts (except large items, tranny, engine are marked up 100%. So if you need parts and have a couple different dealerships around shop the price. Most parts managers are paid straight plus % of total parts sale. And they shouldnt have a problem when you are walking out the door with the part. They either sell it and make something or the next place will.
And it was always amazing what the quick lube shops tryed to upsell. You could put a serpetine belt on, go get your oil changed and if they didnt pull up your last ticket they might try to sell it to you again......

inspiredsports

I generally do it myself making sure the engine is at operating temp so the oil is thin and ready to flow, and I then leave it draining for at least 30 minutes to let every last drop drain out.

I use Castrol GTX and a new filter every 3,000 miles.

Echosphere

joeparaski wrote: »

I'd have to advise AGAINST that drain valve...at least for most cars. If the drain plug on the oil pan is facing down, then adding that valve increases the risk of it getting knocked off by things such as speed bumps in parking lots and other obstacles. It's no problem if the stock drain plug is on the side or rear of the oil pan.

Joe

Good thing to know! It is on the back, but right at the bottom of the back.

But it is still another piece that could snap off... I'll have to think about it again...

Whew, thanks for reminding me!

Echosphere

joeparaski wrote: »

Did you remember to pick up a cam seal and crank seal? If there is any sign of even a slight leak, then that is the time to change them..when you've got the timing belt off. Same thing for the water pump...if you've got lots of mileage and its the original, change the pump while you're at it.

Joe

Thanks! Changing the pump and tensioner and some other stuff.
Got this kit:
http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_6_17_45_115_1564&info=OEM_VAG_06B109119A.KIT4_Timing_Belt_Kit_%22PLUS_EXTRA%22_OEM&products_id=2412

Cam & crank seal? I already replaced the head gasket and cam tensioner gasket, is that what you are saying?

Echosphere

Thanks Rabbit, shutz and inspired for the information! I usually get the oil at autozone, just down the street, but maybe I'll make a journey to WalMart next time to see what they have.

I'll try and rev the engine to get it up to a nice normal temp too!

joeparaski

Echosphere wrote: »

Thanks! Changing the pump and tensioner and some other stuff.
Got this kit:
http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_6_17_45_115_1564&info=OEM_VAG_06B109119A.KIT4_Timing_Belt_Kit_%22PLUS_EXTRA%22_OEM&products_id=2412

Cam & crank seal? I already replaced the head gasket and cam tensioner gasket, is that what you are saying?

Wow, that is a really neat kit, I wish we had kits like that over here (I have to order stuff separately). You've got everything you need there...water pump, cam and crank seals...etc etc...NEAT!!

Joe

ViperZ

joeparaski wrote: »

I'd have to advise AGAINST that drain valve...at least for most cars. If the drain plug on the oil pan is facing down, then adding that valve increases the risk of it getting knocked off by things such as speed bumps in parking lots and other obstacles. It's no problem if the stock drain plug is on the side or rear of the oil pan.

Joe

So far, over 100K on 300m with no signs of leak, almost 150K on Intrepid, and no problems on Jetta. The plug also does not stick out at all. Read the reviews.

ViperZ

joeparaski wrote: »

Wow, that is a really neat kit, I wish we had kits like that over here (I have to order stuff separately). You've got everything you need there...water pump, cam and crank seals...etc etc...NEAT!!

Joe

Joe, pretty sure you can get this kit at Napa.

heiney9

I have a VW GTi VR6 and I use M1 synthetic every 5K. I would suggest using the factory oil filter they are better than your typical "one brand fits all"

Echosphere

Thanks Joe! That's help me feel better for the money I spent on the kit! Though much cheaper than a shop!

ViperZ you have it on the Jetta? What kind of jetta?

Nice VR6 heiny! They don't put them in GTi's anymore do they?

Someone should start a car pic thread!

ViperZ

Echosphere wrote: »

ViperZ you have it on the Jetta? What kind of jetta?

1.8T. Nothing spectacular, but it does the job.

VR3

I normally change my oil myself but my life has been in disarray for like 8 months - so I take it to a mom and pop shop to get my oil changed. I buy my own oil and filter though - not something they put on it.

I use dino oil.

I change my oil every 3,000 miles... and I mean every 3,000 - the farthest I have gone over is like 180 miles

Squidmon

Do it myself as often as I can. Try to use synthetic as it oxidizes much more slowly than conventional, and thats where your wear comes from, the oxidation products.
With conventional I try not to go too far passed 3000 miles and w/ synthetic 5000, as I agree with the post about the filters being the limiting factor there.
For conventional oil, I never use anything other than Valvoline because their base oil has the lowest wax content of any available (spent many years as a research chemist in engine oils R & D). With synthetic, it really doesn't matter, but I'm partial to Royal Purple

concealer404

Echosphere wrote: »

1. Do you take your car to Jiffy Lube or change it yourself?

2. Synthetic or dinosaur oil?

3. How often, what are your intervals?

1) Change it myself, or if i'm feeling especially lazy and rich at the same time, i'll take it to a Valvoline center

2) Dino oil. I drive old cars, they've used liquified dinosaurs their entire life, it's just fine for them.

3) Escort (273k miles): Every 5000 miles or so. If i feel like it. Celica (253k miles): Twice a summer, whether it needs it or not, it's not driven any other time. MX6 (173k miles): 3000 miles on the dot, or before. I'm not playing games with a 20 year old turbo car.

Castrol GTX in all three cars.

10w30 for the Escort
5w30 for the Celica
10w40 for the MX6, about to switch to 15w40.

McLoki

McLoki wrote: »

I purchase synthetic oil (usually Pennzoil Platinum) and take it to my dealer. They provide the filter and the labor and charge me about $8 for the change using my oil.

A good deal all around imo. I change it every 5,000 miles. (just because it is easy to remember)

Michael

I was mistaken - I got my oil changed last night and they charge me $6 for labor and $5 + Tax for the filter so the total is a little over $11.00 (plus 7 quarts of synthetic oil that I provide)

Still a great deal as I pay about $33 for the synthetic oil and the dealership would charge me about half that for the bulk oil that they use.

fatchowmein

I couldn't tell if his question was answered...

Echosphere wrote: »

Btw, is there a reason why the engine has to be warm? Something bad if not, or does it just help it to flow out better? Reason I ask is because it's on stand now while I attempt my first timing belt change.

You want the engine heated up so that the particles/junk is suspended in the oil and flows on out when you drain but you want to wait until it cools off a bit and the engine is warm so you don't burn yourself.

Echosphere

All good stuff here and just learned some new things thank you to you folks.

ViperZ, I've got the 1.8T also and love the Turbo!

Squidmon, I knew that synth was better but didn't know why, is was due to the oxidization. Now I have some aresenal to argue with pop about when he complains that I wait till 5k miles.

Concealer, I've heard that it's not good to switch from dino to synth, or at least blend it over several changes if you have to do it, which is what I did a year or so ago and ended up getting a few hoses and seals leaking... grrr,.

bsoko2

I put used oil in my Escalade bercause it is cheap and I change the oil when the oil light comes on.