Urgent

VR3
VR3 Posts: 28,746
edited May 2010 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
I went ahead and jumped into this xover mod

Everything has gone super smooth until right now

On one of the tweet capacitor - the through hole connection came off...

Am I screwed? How easy to fix is this? Can it be fixed?

HELP!
- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
Post edited by VR3 on

Comments

  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    Are you saying the lead on the capacitor came off?
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,746
    edited May 2010
    No
    On the circuit board where you insert the lead - that silver hole ,the silver came out - just pcb underneath

    How do I put a new circle in there and successfully fix this?
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    You will have to find another place on the board that has continuity to the lifted pad, then solder a jumper between that pad and new lead you are trying to solder onto the lifted pad. It's hard to fix lifted pads and its caused by too much heat usually.

    http://www.llamma.com/xbox/Repairs/repairing_traces_and_lifted_pads.htm
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,746
    edited May 2010
    Im sorry Zingo - I just dont understand....

    Do you mean like this?
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,746
    edited May 2010
    pic...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,746
    edited May 2010
    Hmmm

    Not to rush a response, but im freaking out ha!

    I thought I was doing good - soldered like 8 connections with ease then... wam!
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,746
    edited May 2010
    bump bump confirmation plz!!!:)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited May 2010
    I'm confused,, are you referring to the solder joint on the underside of the pcb?
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited May 2010
    You will need to remove some of the solder mask(green stuff) to reveal more copper so that so have something to solder to.A small file or emery cloth should do,or if your careful a sanding wheel on a dremel would work.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,746
    edited May 2010
    The hole in which you insert the lead - it has a silver surround in which you solder to.

    That silver surround piece is missing. Essentially at this point I am trying to solder to... like a piece of cardboard - its a no go.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,746
    edited May 2010
    What about Zingos suggestion? I can do that if that will work...

    See above pic to see if I would end up doing that right...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited May 2010
    OK-- I understand,,,, better follow Fred's instructions,,he's the man.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,746
    edited May 2010
    What about Zingos suggestion? I can do that if that will work...

    See above pic to see if I would end up doing that right...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,746
    edited May 2010
    Im kind of afraid to try Fred's suggestion lol... Im a n00b at this...

    Alternatives?
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited May 2010
    Alternatives?
    OK how about try and use a utility knife to scrape away the coating around the hole to expose enough copper to solder to,I've done this kind of thing many times on Pc boards.:D The green coating or solder mask is on there to prevent oxidation of the copper trace,removing some of it will not be an issue.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,746
    edited May 2010
    Sweeet - that seemed to work -- will give it a shot!

    Thanks!
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited May 2010
    let us know how it works out.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,746
    edited May 2010
    That worked perfect!

    I cut the wire to where it would lay down flat about 1/16" -- scratched away the coating underneath and a little around the wire - soldered right to it!

    Perfect!

    Thank you so much!!!!

    Now I just need to find some chasis wire to extend the capacitor leads for the woofer
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited May 2010
    That worked perfect!

    I cut the wire to where it would lay down flat about 1/16" -- scratched away the coating underneath and a little around the wire - soldered right to it!
    Awesome.
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2010
    Great work and sorry I was confusing. :p
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited May 2010
    What wattage is your iron?
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,746
    edited May 2010
    Im pretty sure I did this when I was desoldering

    I got the desoldering iron with the bulb...

    Took me a few trys to get it down and I kind of jumped into it haha
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited May 2010
    I prefer using a regular iron with desoldering braid, YMMV. Ever since I started using a Weller adjustable iron, I believe I've only removed one trace.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • TECHNOKID
    TECHNOKID Posts: 4,298
    edited May 2010
    FTGV wrote: »
    You will need to remove some of the solder mask(green stuff) to reveal more copper so that so have something to solder to.A small file or emery cloth should do,or if your careful a sanding wheel on a dremel would work.
    :confused:

    A small miniature screw driver is normally sufficient to slightly scratch the green coating away without damaging the tin foil runs.
    The hole in which you insert the lead - it has a silver surround in which you solder to.

    That silver surround piece is missing. Essentially at this point I am trying to solder to... like a piece of cardboard - its a no go.
    You are talking about the soldering pad which damage is typical when using a soldering iron that is too hot.
    Im pretty sure I did this when I was desoldering

    I got the desoldering iron with the bulb...

    Took me a few trys to get it down and I kind of jumped into it haha
    Your soldering iron was definitely too hot, the reason for the damage. If you do soldering work a tad frequently I'd suggest a heat control-adjustable soldering iron as this will prevent board damages. Might look a tad expensive but your PCB will thank you for it :)

    The capacitors normally come with long leads so don't cut the lead yet, you fold it down toward the new location you want to solder it and cut at that point. It is usually better to solder to the next pad that has continuity with the damaged one instead of simply solder over the damaged run. Once done, you can apply a coat of RTV or other dielectric protection over the repairs.

    Cheers!
    TK
    DARE TO SOAR:
    “Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life” ;)
  • TECHNOKID
    TECHNOKID Posts: 4,298
    edited May 2010
    Face wrote: »
    I prefer using a regular iron with desoldering braid, YMMV. Ever since I started using a Weller adjustable iron, I believe I've only removed one trace.
    Personnally I prefer a desoldering pump. If the heat is proper at the iron there will never have run or pad damage problem. The desoldering braid can also damage the pad not counting your cost.

    Cheers!
    TK
    DARE TO SOAR:
    “Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life” ;)
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,746
    edited May 2010
    Thanks for the advice guys - I hope the second goes smoother. Hell I just hope tomorrow when I plug this bad boy in it works! hahahahah

    Anyways - all great advice and look forward to implementing what I can!
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited May 2010
    TECHNOKID wrote: »
    :confused:

    A small miniature screw driver is normally sufficient to slightly scratch the green coating away without damaging the tin foil runs.
    Thanks.;)