In Desperate Need Of Shaft Sytle Headunit

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gonna be working on a 76 cadillac calais... as such i need a shaft style headunit for it -- no way in hell i'm cutting the dashboard.

30k original miles = no cutty cutty.

I saw one shaft unit that might be "adequate" -- it's a kenwood KRC-3006 (from 1994)

it has built in changer controls so i can easily hook a 6 disc kenwood recent model (up to 2001) changer to it. has bass and trebble at 100hz and 10khz +/- 10 db and a single 1 votl preout.

now the preout is gonna suck at 1 volt but if u do the math you've got 15 x 2 watts rms deck power (bandwith is 30 hertz to 18.5k hertz) rms into 4 ohms with 0.5% thd (this is according to a kenwood tech).

so P=VI = V*V / R
15 * 4 = V^2
V = 7.75

so i'd have a single 7.75 volt preout with a little muddyness -- lower it a bit to cut distortion -- call it a 5 volt preout maybe? that's using the speaker leads off the deck -- whatta u guys think ????? is this doable ???

secondly -- WHERE THE HELL CAN I GET THIS DECK. all the other shafts i've seen are absolute junk -- and almost none have changer controls.

i noticed this because this place called custom-autosound.com makes "retro looking" head units for older cars and msucle cars -- now they use stricly kenwood 3006 and 3004/2004 models for their gear... but they want like 270 for the damn deck and another 250 for the "custom" changer they sell for it (they ghetto rig the plug and scrape the labeling off the circuit board so u cant go to the store and buy u're own kenwood changer for it -- u gotta buy theirs... how **** is that?


so basically i'm lookin for a kenwood KRC-3006 and changer for 250 for the pair... new or used or whatever -- jsut as long as it works -- i dont care if a mule drop kicked it and took a dump on it as long as it WORKS GOOD. (i can get the changer for 150 -- so 100 or so for the deck if possible).

or anyone have any other suggestions ????????????


just to give u an idea --here's the plan as of right now.

..... Polk DX 3045 4" component set for the front.
..... Polk DX9 6x9" for the rear deck.
..... Image Dynamics IDQ-12" single 400 watt sub for the rear deck.
..... haven't decided on amps yet... depending on how the budget pans out I may end up not even doing a sub at all -- depends how ambitious i am as well.

Jstas

Dude, nothing comes up in the search engines or eBay. except for resto kits with the KRC-3006 as the guts of the radio. Some of those sites may have somthing to fit the ride you are trying to rig up. You should check them. Just type Kenwood KRC-3006 in Yahoo and you will get a whole bunch of hits for it.

You might want to call up Crutchfield. They may have a few NOS units still sitting in the warehouse. If so, they go for about 110-120 which ain't too bad. You'd be able to find a CD Changer for 150 and go just beyond your budget. Other than that, I think you are SOL.

PoweredByDodge

well -- i had an inspriation...

---

solder.... lots of solder....


i said - "if i get a deck with a non motorized face - like most of the under 300 dollar pioneers... where u push the button and it flips down then u press a button behind the face that says "eject" to get the cd out -- then i can actuall put the body of the head inside the glove box -- and -- the faceplate on the dashboard!"

I got a panasonic CQDF203U -- and the faceplate part is about 1/4 inch thick -- so i'm going to use either double sided 3m tape or something else to stick it over the OEM 3 hole dash part -- then... i'm gonna put two drops of silicone on the trim ring that normally goes to the cage and stick that right around the face on the dash -- it'll look like it belongs there -- then i'm gonna solder all the 20 - 30 some odd pins on the back of the face to extention lead wires and run those to the glove box and solder that **** to the body of the head unit.

me thinx... it'll work... worse case scenario i'll have to jump every wire to a relay with a toggle switch with which i can turn them all off so that the boyd will think i've flipped the face down and thus power up the eject sequence for the cd. eiterh way -- it'll work.

the other good part is the rest of the stuff i got

he wouldn't let me buy a sub for several reasons...
1- he wont let me cut the rear deck up - and u cant put a sub in the trunk its heavy heavy gauge sheetmetal
2- budget - its like 200 for the sub i wanted (ID-Q series 12) and it's another 250 for the amp... then heavier gauge power wire -- yada yada -- it was almost a 700 dollar difference.
3- i dont have the ambition to cut apart the deck when i'm already doing a half summer long half assed restore on the thing. gonna have fun rebuilding a carb for the first time (scared to death i am).

anyway -- i ended up getting:

1- phoenix gold tantrum 6x9's (rear deck)
2- phoenix gold XS 3.5" (front top dash - ya i know -- stupid small hole)
3- 30 feet of phoenix gold 8 gauge blue neon wire
4- PG fuse holder
5- 80 feet of sapphire blue PG 16 gauge speaker wire
6- two pair of PG blue 20 foot patch cables *yes its a boat*
7- phoenix gold 4 channel amp ( 80 x 4 at 4 ohms rms)

got all that and the panasonic head unit (which by the way although its only a mid level head unit is this snazzy solid chrome color for the entire face so it'll look good as hell in an old car that has a buttload of chrome stuff inside)... for only 550 bucks. i think i did pretty good

now - now i need to find RIMS! eek! -- i would like 17 or 18" escalade basic stainless steel or brushed aluminum rims -- just the 5 spoke with the brushed logo in the middle -- or i'd settle for 15" of the same. but i gotta see what's available...

back window shuld have a little script writing saying, "yes i have a 502 cubic inch engine, what've you got?"

all i gotta do is see what i can do about getting the damned boat anchor blue printed -- its 197 stock Horse power with something like 240 torque ( i know the ratings are more like what you'd expect out of a diesel -- but i'm guessing its because the car weighs as much as a 2500 series pickup truck ) cuz i've read about some with as much as 400 horse all engine -- just a hell of a retune / blue print.

Jstas

Dude, goto Kmart and pick yourself up some industrial strength velcro. It'll hold anything up. That way, you don't have to glue the face onto anything.

As for power, you can do lots of stuff. The only reason it's so weak is smog equipment. 1974 was the first year for smog and the systems became mandated on everything in 1975. Also, new crash standards were implemented in 1975 so that's why the car is so heavy. Instead of crumple zones, it has extra reinforcement. The car actually makes what I would expect in 1976.

You can get a 400 horse Caddy big block though. You'll need ditch the smogger stuff and go with a new set of heads, a bumpier cam, headers, exhaust system and you can probably even get an after market fuel injection kit for it.

However, I do not think that it is a 502. A 502 would be a Chevy 454 stroked like .25 inches or half an inch or something like that. No, Cadillac had a 500 cubic inch big block. Last I remember, it didn't look anything like a 454/502 Chevy and it's firing order and damn near everything else was different.

Systems

PBD,

I was at the Kenwood Factory outlet the other day, My friend is a manager there. They have the old time style head unit. the two round holes and the rectangular hole fitting old time Kenwood Unit. If you interested.. Email me at Jamas33@hotmail.com and I'll email you number of his store. Maybe you can pay via credit card or better yet... If you really want it I can post it on ebay and have a buy it now and I'll get you the link to the head unit.. buy it.. and I'll get it and ship it to you. Call him at Kenwood Outlet in CALI.. email me and I'll get you his info.

Jamas33