Problems

Patterson21

I have 0 gauge power/ground wire, a 150 hi-anl fuse and fuse holder, 1, 1000 watt JL audio 2 channel. and 1 Pioneer Premier Champion Series dual 2 ohm. For some reason my amp blew my sub, this is the only time ever I have had a problem with my stereo, Ive had about 12 that Ive done. But this one boggles me. oh, its a 12 in. subwoofer in a slot box. I wired sub parrallel, and sub and amp are 1 ohm stable. It blew with in first 3 days, at first I was using distrabution block cuz I didnt think I could fit 0 guauge into the amp opening, so i went from 0 to 8 guage power wire, and hooked up the 8 gauge to amp. and I was blowing the fuses in the D-block, 40amp. My amplifier has 3 40 amp fuses in it for safety. they werent blowing. so I removed D-block, and inserted 0 gauge into amp opening for power. and ground, which was already in the amp opening. Once i removed D-block it worked great, then my buddy adjusted my amp, and my cd reciever so i pounded, but it blew in like 1 minute, and I looked under hood and it almost blew my 150amp hi anl fuse....I think my amp puts out actually 1500 watts. Cuz Since the sub was 1000 rms, and 3500 peak, I dont think the amp should have blown it. I could really use some help here. I hate askin for it, but Ive researched so much, and got another Pioneer, same sub on the way, I just want everything working right b4 i install, so I dont blow it. lately Ive heard u gotta break them n for bout 3 weeks b4 u can crank it???I have never did that b4, and have never blown a sub til now, I have burned up 2 amps(**** amps.) R the subs made that much different??my last system was 4 years ago, 2 12 in. Massives(best oness they make) and 1000 watt concept amp, and it pounded. I appreciate all the help I can get. Thank you

PoweredByDodge

The JL 1000/1 could pull upwards of 100 - 125 amps on its own (assuming 80 - 85 percent efficiency of 2nd generation class D amplifier driving around 1200 watts "real world" power.

What planet you were on when you tied an 8 awg power feed to it, I've no idea -- of course it's going to blow a 40 amp fuse. That's a fire waiting to happen. WTF ever happened to Code Compliance?

And your power rating is incorrect.

The Pioneer Premier Champion Series subwoofers are only 400 watts RMS... not 1,000. Whomever told you 1,000 is full of ****. You're not going to get a 1,000 watt RMS quality woofer for $75 new. Actually, it's hard to find a 300 watt QUALITY woofer for $75 new.

So ya... that's you're problem, the subwoofer is drastically undersized for the amplifier.

As far as your buddy, he sounds like an idiot. Anybody who would TUNE a speaker into, through, and past mechanical distortion belongs in a cage.

exalted512

PoweredByDodge wrote: »

The JL 1000/1 could pull upwards of 100 - 125 amps on its own (assuming 80 - 85 percent efficiency of 2nd generation class D amplifier driving around 1200 watts "real world" power.

What planet you were on when you tied an 8 awg power feed to it, I've no idea -- of course it's going to blow a 40 amp fuse. That's a fire waiting to happen. WTF ever happened to Code Compliance?

And your power rating is incorrect.

The Pioneer Premier Champion Series subwoofers are only 400 watts RMS... not 1,000. Whomever told you 1,000 is full of ****. You're not going to get a 1,000 watt RMS quality woofer for $75 new. Actually, it's hard to find a 300 watt QUALITY woofer for $75 new.

So ya... that's you're problem, the subwoofer is drastically undersized for the amplifier.

As far as your buddy, he sounds like an idiot. Anybody who would TUNE a speaker into, through, and past mechanical distortion belongs in a cage.

I didnt read all of it as it was starting to hurt my head, but I did catch it was a 2-channel JL that is 1 ohm stable. I want to know where you can get those at?
-Cody

exalted512

Oh, and the champion PRO series actually do handle 1000wrms.
-Cody

JoshParsons84

DSkip wrote: »

Improper gain settings can really do a number on a speaker.

Truer words were never spoken. Gain shouldn't need set any higher than about 10:00

exalted512

JoshParsons84 wrote: »

Truer words were never spoken. Gain shouldn't need set any higher than about 10:00

that all depends on your radio.
-Cody

PoweredByDodge

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_21353_Pioneer_Premier_TS-W1208D4.aspx

exalted512

or is he talking about...
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_20831_Pioneer_Premier_TS-W3002D2.aspx

PoweredByDodge

hmm... good point... but they're Pioneer subs, so either way, they're ****.

PerfectCreature

It's not really the watts that kill your sub woofer man. It's stuff like distortion and unclean power, not enough power, and over-excursion. I've had subwoofers in my car that were rated at only 100 watts rms, and I've used rockford fosgate amps that were 200rms and they have done fine and never blown.
Those could also be the peak power your looking at. Plus a 1 ohm stable amp is not going do well with an 8 gauge wire...its like serving thanksgiving dinner and giving you a 1 inch plate with only one trip to the table. Your going to starve, causing your amp to overwork to amplify power it can't put out...you know?
You should never use bass boost or if you do minimal; amounts, either that will kill your sub.

arun1963

The basic lines that Pio sells is junk yes. The premier line though is good stuff. At least for HU's and speakers. Where's BAF? Vinnie, he's on your side vis a vis pio

exalted512

PoweredByDodge wrote: »

hmm... good point... but they're Pioneer subs, so either way, they're ****.

loudest vehicle in the world was made with Pioneer equipment:D
-Cody

PoweredByDodge

There was a time that the loudest thing on wheels was made by Cerwin Vega too... where'd that get them?

And overpowering a speaker will eventually overheat the voice coil, likely short it out / damage the surround due to over-excursion, etc etc... but, ya, within reason you can overpower just about anything provided you have nice clean power. I ran Polk DX 6.5" components with something like 125 - 150 watts RMS for a long time. It did ultimately fry them, but they took it for a good long while.

Jstas

It's funny that when this thread is replied to by Vinnie, it shows up on the main page as:

Problems
PoweredByDodge


It has so much material in one little bitty space that my brain is spazzing just trying to figure out where to start!

arun1963

Jstas wrote: »

It's funny that when this thread is replied to by Vinnie, it shows up on the main page as:

Problems
PoweredByDodge

I thought problems only happened when powered by Ford.

MacLeod

The ONLY thing that will kill your speaker not counting manufacturing defects or jabbing a screwdriver thru the cone, is overpowering. Either by overheating the voice coil or pushing the suspension beyond its limits. Thats done by overpowering.

Distortion will never hurt a speaker so long as its within the speakers thermal limits. You send 50 watts of pure distortion to a 100 sub and it will play it all day long.

Send 200 watts of pure clean goodness thru a 50 watt speaker and its toast.

PoweredByDodge

I differ... 10 watts of clipping will damage a 50 watt speaker. distorted 'sound' (think of it as 'snow' or 'noise') isn't a problem, but distorted 'power' is. There aren't good enough words to describe it, I know... but ya... You can't leave a speaker pole extended or retracted for any great length of time. 1 second is a great length of time in 'music years' (think 'dog years').

arun1963

The vc blows when it getting more heat than what it can dissipate. Heat is a by product of resistance meeting current. More power = more current = more heat.

catch22atplay

Patterson21 wrote: »

1, 1000 watt JL audio 2 channel. and 1 Pioneer Premier Champion Series dual 2 ohm. I wired sub parrallel, and sub and amp are 1 ohm stable. It blew with in first 3 days.

So a 2 channel amp and not a mono sub amp? I see 2 2 channel amps on JLaudio's website. 1 is rated for bridged mono into 8 ohms and the other bridged mono into 4 ohms. No where does it say either one is stable into 1 ohm nor even 2 ohm loads. Am i missing something here? Exulted caught it right away. And both are class A/B making efficiency terrible causing even more amps and as Arun said more heat. The 8 gauge wire also reduced voltage there bye requiring even more amps which increased heat even more. It was bound to fry something. Either the amp blows, the sub blows or the fuses save your arse if you're lucky. Or as PoweredbyDodge said an electrical fire waiting to happen.

If the amp survived run the replacement subs in series to present a 4 ohm load and never use 8 gauge wire again.

PoweredByDodge

...arun, yes, but also voice coil can't dissipate heat when the pole piece is stuck in the full forward or rear position either. It's not moving, thereby not creating airflow. This happens when amplifier clips out.

Cthulhu11

The JL 1000 Slash is only rated to 1.5 ohms not 1, can you push it to that yes. what happens, what you've had happen. The Pioneer woofer is a decent woofer. I usually sell them to people that have blown up everything else. You should of hooked the woofer in series at 4 ohms being that the JL amp has the RIPS system it. Which mean that it does not matter wether it's at 1.5 or 4 ohms it's gives you a 1000 watts. Now is that amp a 1000 watts hell no it's like 1600. The pioneer woofer hold 600 watts RMS, You have to take into the equation that you had it a ported box. A woofer in a ported box needs less power to move because the cone is not loaded. A woofer in a sealed box need more power, because when you drop the woofer into the enclosure it loads the cone with air inside the box. That being said, that woofer had no chance in hell of surviving.

Cthulhu11

They also do not except 0ga wire, only 4ga so you've trimmed some of the wire off the make it fit.

Cthulhu11

Yes powerbydodge, when the amp clips it's running out of electricty and began throw DC current to the woofer, instead of AC which inturn will burn the voice coils up. but more than likely it was the fact that he has a badass amp and a ok woofer in a ported box.