Polk M 30's vs M 40's
yepimonfire
Posts: 256
i'm finally upgrading my speakers from the cheap sony's i got awhile back, i'm looking at the monitor 30's or 40's but, aside from a little bit of extra frequency response in the monitor 40's (which i obviously won't need thanks to a nice sub) i honestly have no clue which will sound better or if there will be any difference in sound at all. what do you suggest?
Post edited by yepimonfire on
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You gonna use those for two channel right? Try some RTI-6s or Rti-A3s! Not that much more and and a bit better for 'music'?
cnhCurrently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!
Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
[sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash] -
The Monitor 40's were the first pieces I brought in to start replacing the old (but decent) Onkyo HTIB I've been dragging around for years. Even just sitting the 40's on the floor without stands, no receiver adjustments, no EQ, no fiddling with speaker placement, etc. running mp3's off an 8 year-old iPod for a test run, the wife *immediately* could tell the difference from the other room and was genuinely impressed.
Good enough for me, too -
Are you planning on buying new or used? I would highly recommend looking at the polk store on ebay as well as stuff on audiogon. Great deals to be had if you're patient. Having said that, considering that you can get the m40s for 120 shipped when they are on sale at newegg I would definitely go for those over the 30s. Even though your sub will pick up the lows, you will get better midbass and a little more slam out of the 40s.
Peace,
PaulLiving Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
Hey guys just ordered my M40s and they will be here today!!! got em for 120 on newegg, the first pair of real speakers ive owned.
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Congrats! I think you're gonna love em!Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
God these things sound effing good! its like im not even listening to speakers, but a live performance, perfect imaging, perfect transients, polk fan for life!
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Guys, I have a question on the M40 and M50. I have the alternative to use M50 as rear left and right and M40 as lateral left and right. The other option would be to replace the Monitor for RTi 6 or FXi6 ,....what do you think? Which configuration would be better??
Thanks! -
theres no reason to use floorstanders as surrounds unless you plan to use all floorstanders for every channel. monitor 50s have better bass response the 40s but if your using a sub, theres no reason to get them just for that.
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Thanks for your comments xcapri! So you would recommend using the Monitor 40 and Monito 50 instead of FXi A6 ? Monitors sound better?
The rear part of my HT is elevated, thus I can place the M50 with no issues as rear right and rear left. The Monitor 40 would be bookshelf.
I thought the Fxi A6 woud sound better. -
thanks xcapri...that would be a good option
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Can you give a rundown/layout of your entire system? I am having a little trouble picturing what you are wanting to do...Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
Fronts: (2) RTi12
Center: (1) CSi5
Sub: (1) PSW505
Lateral surround: (2) Monitor 40 (elevated)
Rear surround: (2) Monitor 50 (the floor at the back is a little higher - 1 feet - so they will be at hearing height)
Any further thoughts? I was wondering if I need to change the Monitors by FXi A6 or any others? -
Ideally you want all the tweeters matched, so that would mean either rti4/6 or fxi. Having said that, my surrounds don't match and it doesn't really bother me since I don't listen to much multichannel music, I'm not a gamer, and I don't watch many movies (mostly tv and 2 channel music). If you are focused on movies/games, then matching surrounds would make more of difference I would think. YMMV.
Peace,
PaulLiving Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
thanks rooftop
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Another question about the Monitor 50s. According to their spec, you can run up to 150W per channel. I'm trying to get a 200 wpc X 5 external amp. Can I run the Monitor 50 with this amp? Would it be ok? Would I damage the speaker if I run them with more power than 150 wpc? Sorry for beginner question......
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yes it will be fine, having all that extra power availible for transients is actually GOOD for the speaker, and 90% of the time speakers blow because the amps run out of power and clip causing the voice coils to melt, you will never be able to turn it loud enough to use a full 200wpc or even 100 wpc RMS without going deaf. always go for a higher power amp