Best Speaker Wire?
Plastiq
Posts: 6
Hello I am currently setting up my first home theater setup for music and movies. I am trying to get the best sound and I have yet to set everything up. I have everything except for speaker wire. I am not quite sure how much of a difference there is between it but I still would like to get a good kind. Right now I have Polk audios M20's (floorstanding), CSR (center), PSW10 (sub), and R150 (bookshelf-surrounds). I also have the Pioneer Elite VSX-01TXH receiver. What speaker wire would be best quality and what size do I need? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!
Post edited by Plastiq on
Comments
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Welcome to Club Polk.
Use the search function it has been covered extensively here as well as many audio sites.Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
Go to monoprice pick yourself up some 12 gauge wire and some banana plugs. That is about as good as it gets really...
I mean aside from really buying the high end stuff...
If you want that check like Crutchfield or something.Receiver
Harman Kardon HK 3490
Speakers
Polk Audio Monitor 50s
Subwoofer
Klipsch KSW-100
Cables
AudioQuest Rocket 33s 10ft
AudioQuest Optilink1 2m
AudioQuest Alpha-Snake 25ft Interconnect
AudioQuest HDMI-1 2m
Alienware X51 R2
PS4
Samsung Smart TV 40" 1080p 3D -
PerfectCreature wrote: »Go to monoprice pick yourself up some 12 gauge wire and some banana plugs. That is about as good as it gets really...
I mean aside from really buying the high end stuff...
If you want that check like Crutchfield or something.
+1
Can't agree more, I got all my wires, cables and plugs from monoprice (thanks to this forum). Parts-express.com is also a good site and i've gotten some good things on there too like speaker wall plates, hdmi's etc.
You will save a ton of dough and not sacrifice performance. It also helps justifying what we spend on the components and speakers lol.50" Sony LCD
Denon 3805
Polk Audio RM 20 system
Polk Audio 12" sub
PS3
Wii
Harmony One
HT system #2
55" Samsung LED
Pioneer Elite VSX 23
Fronts, Center- Polk VM 20
Rears- Polk VM10
Sub - DSW Pro 600
Harmony 900 -
There are too many variables to say one speaker cable is the best. It depends on the level of your gear, how deep your pockets are and most importantly, synergy.
That said and not to be insulting, but with your level of gear any 12 or 10 gauge cable will do as I seriously doubt you're going to hear a difference.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
PerfectCreature wrote: »Go to monoprice pick yourself up some 12 gauge wire and some banana plugs. That is about as good as it gets really...
I mean aside from really buying the high end stuff...
If you want that check like Crutchfield or something.+1
Can't agree more, I got all my wires, cables and plugs from monoprice (thanks to this forum). Parts-express.com is also a good site and i've gotten some good things on there too like speaker wall plates, hdmi's etc.
You will save a ton of dough and not sacrifice performance. It also helps justifying what we spend on the components and speakers lol.
Monoprice makes a quality product at a real low price...but it can't stand up against higher end stuff in my experience. It's decent if you're on a budget, but you're getting what you pay for. It's not going to give you the sound quality of even lower end Audioquest cables IMO.
What kind of budget are you thinking for the cabling?
I'm using all Audioquest cables in my rig, and I'm very happy with them. I'm running AQ Sidewinder interconnects and AQ Type 4 speaker cables. The Sidewinder IC's can be had for about $50-70 a pair or so, if you don't mind buying used. The Type 4 speaker cables can be had for around $80-90 a pair or so on average.
Are you just looking for speaker cables? Or do you need IC's as well?
Like F1 said(and not to be insulting), your gear is relatively low end, though I'm sure it still sounds fantastic. Higher end cables aren't going to make as big of a difference on lower end gear though, because they aren't capable of resolving highly enough to reveal some of the subtle differences that cables can make.
Monoprice is a good low budget choice, as others mentioned above. My personal favorite budget speaker cable is Canare 4S11. It's got a pretty high end sound, with a very un-high end price.The nirvana inducer-
APC H10 Power Conditioner
Marantz UD5005 universal player
Parasound Halo P5 preamp
Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's -
I would go with Bluejeans, high quality cable made in the U.S. from Belden which the broadcast industry uses and they're very affordable. They could be considered the Oppo of the wire world with their small company practice and customer service.
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/ -
All good advice. I have upgraded cables a few times. Most recently I replaced the 25 year old zip cord cable my dad passed to me w/ his JBL L110 monitors (not sure why I always used this crap for years in college, young and stupid I guess....and always hungry;) with some Monster XP cable I had taken out of my main rig (replaced with PNF symphony cables with great results) and boy what a difference. The bass is alot more articulate and the entire speaker sounds smoother. Not a big suprise as the 25 year old cable is heavily oxidized and worn.
The JBLs are also 25 years old (havent done anything other than recone and recoil the woofers @ JBL) and a cable change made a huge difference. However, I dont think I would spend the money on more expensive cable for that rig as I dont think I would get my money worth in aural returns (as others have said, get the cable that matches the level of equipment and your listening style.
If you use you rig for music a fair amount, you may want to spend a little more on cables for the fronts (the only speakers you would use in 2ch listening) or the center (carries the majority of the burden of HT use). The canare cable available at blue jeans is a very good value, I was going to buy some to make my own cables, but went with PNF instead based on a fellow polkers review, my research, and a nice discount (just mention Club Polk) didnt hurt either.
You can always buy the cheap stuff, use it, and upgrade your cables later as you settle in to your listening habits and equipment.
Just my two cent, so take it for what its worth (at least a penny...)
Cheers
Jeremy
[The Ever-Evolving System
LSI15's (PNF Symphony cabels, modded X-Over and subs), LSIC, LSI7's, Rega Apollo CDP (PNF ICON ICs, modified PS cct.), Yamaha RXV-1700 w/ ipod dock, B&K REF200.2 (fronts) Samsung BDP-1600, XBOX360, Patriot Box Office Media Player, 42" Samsung LCD. -
biggest issues in cables is, oxidation, make sure whatever you get is oxygen free, and conductance (probably the wrong word but it works) copper cable is always best, the size matters as well but 12 AWG is perfectly fine for almost anything unless your planning on running 50 ft of wire. oh and for the love of your wallet please dont fall for any "magic snake oil" wire, most of the advertising claims on wires like solid wire that isnt stranded is bull, same with wire insulation, alot of people will claim that the electrons on the insulation will align with the ones running through the wire, but in order for that to happen you have to be running a DC voltage that is VERY powerful (like 100,000 volts) it doesent work with AC which is the type of current running through speaker wires. not to mention all the wires inside your components dont have any of this "magic snake oil" so it would make no difference if you used it. there is something to do with size and low frequency output though for sure, since low frequencies tend to drive larger amounts of current through the wires, small wires (18 AWG+) will seem to lack in accurate low end response because the resistance will go up from the heat at that level of current. i may not be the best at explaining WHY that happens, but i know it does happen, and there is scientific data to back it up. also dont fall for cables claiming to be insulated from noise, speakers are very low impedance devices and take large amounts of current to be driven and the amount of electromagnetic noise needed to interfere with the speakers "clarity" would cause radiation burns. although noise insulation is a real thing to consider when getting input cables, since these generally carry tiny amounts of current and are of higher impedance and any small noise going through them will be magnified by the amp to an audible level.
oh and bluejeans is legitimate and only design cables based on real scientific data, and they wont try to sell you some wire that a wizard supposedly enchanted. -
there are too many variables to say one speaker cable is the best. It depends on the level of your gear, how deep your pockets are and most importantly, synergy.
That said and not to be insulting, but with your level of gear any 12 or 10 gauge cable will do as i seriously doubt you're going to hear a difference.
bingo!:) -
Audioadvisor has some entry level Audioquest on sale, and check out Signalcable.com - tell Frank you are Club Polk member for a discount!
Cheers,
RussCheck your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service. -
yepimonfire, you have absolutely no idea as to what you are talking about. Please refrain from providing misleading information.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
yepimonfire wrote: »biggest issues in cables is, oxidation, make sure whatever you get is oxygen free, and conductance (probably the wrong word but it works) copper cable is always best, the size matters as well but 12 AWG is perfectly fine for almost anything unless your planning on running 50 ft of wire. oh and for the love of your wallet please dont fall for any "magic snake oil" wire, most of the advertising claims on wires like solid wire that isnt stranded is bull, same with wire insulation, alot of people will claim that the electrons on the insulation will align with the ones running through the wire, but in order for that to happen you have to be running a DC voltage that is VERY powerful (like 100,000 volts) it doesent work with AC which is the type of current running through speaker wires. not to mention all the wires inside your components dont have any of this "magic snake oil" so it would make no difference if you used it. there is something to do with size and low frequency output though for sure, since low frequencies tend to drive larger amounts of current through the wires, small wires (18 AWG+) will seem to lack in accurate low end response because the resistance will go up from the heat at that level of current. i may not be the best at explaining WHY that happens, but i know it does happen, and there is scientific data to back it up. also dont fall for cables claiming to be insulated from noise, speakers are very low impedance devices and take large amounts of current to be driven and the amount of electromagnetic noise needed to interfere with the speakers "clarity" would cause radiation burns. although noise insulation is a real thing to consider when getting input cables, since these generally carry tiny amounts of current and are of higher impedance and any small noise going through them will be magnified by the amp to an audible level.
oh and bluejeans is legitimate and only design cables based on real scientific data, and they wont try to sell you some wire that a wizard supposedly enchanted.
If you're going to go on a rant about how cables don't make a difference, you could at least separate it into a few paragraphs, so it's easier to read.;)
Cables definitely make a difference. I've heard these differences with my own ears, despite whatever "scientific data" might be out there.The nirvana inducer-
APC H10 Power Conditioner
Marantz UD5005 universal player
Parasound Halo P5 preamp
Parasound HCA-1200II power amp
PolkAudio LSi9's/PolkAudio SDA 2A's/PolkAudio Monitor 7A's
Audioquest Speaker Cables and IC's -
I recommend staying away from the "snake oil" and such "wizardry" too.
UGH! Again with this nonsense?
I have yepimonfire on ignore but someone quoted him so I have to respond. You have no idea what you are talking about kid, so I suggest you would refrain from posting incorrect information as you are going to get called out on it everytime. Post your experience and it will be accepted, post what you've read rather than experience and you have no credibility. -
everything i provided has scientific data to back it up, if you prefer to spend $46823472842374829472894278342934 bucks for a piece of speaker wire then go for it, but dont fool newbies into wasting their money on garbage.
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yep, i have been down the road of "exotic wires" and tested many different claims, the only ones that are true is size, and being oxygen free, which funny those are the only things that actually have data to support them. funny thing is that the exotic claims have evidence against them, not for them.
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I want to thank you guys for an entertaining thread. I can't hear the difference between blue wire and green wire either. But I think quality wires will last longer and not corrode or break down. I wonder if visual cues influence our perception also. I like good looking gear, I wouldn't own the best gear in the world if it looked bad. Quality wires look great and make us feel good, so I think that's part of the whole package, looks and performance.
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If you can't hear the difference a quality wire makes then God bless you. I can hear a difference so I'll be forever damned into the hell of upgrading.:D
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People on here have said good things about Signal Cable and claimed they noticed an improvement. I'm interested and curious about SC now, will they make an improvement over my Bluejeans wires and have any of you done any comparisons?
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Check this out..interesting reading. I can hear the howls of protests on both sides. Prefaced with personal attacks on the integrity of the author.
Me? While I no longer live in Missouri, I still demand reproducible proof.
I do like expensive cables for their looks, which in my book can be a valid reason to buy them.
He showed some of his glass insulators..I liked the clear ones that looked like Scandinavian amber. I'd buy them.
Cable elevators/Insulators may not work either but they add pinache if they look good. An inexpensive accessory.
What do I have? 10 awg wires with lockable bananas..I'd love to do a double blind test against anything else. But not if I had to buy them 1st.
I found it funny that the speaker wire wars have been going on since the 60's!
Salesman can create a market for anything. God Bless Them for creating a new industry. Jobs/Employment. Caveat Emptor. No one uses his Kids lunch money for cables. If it makes you happy,believe and buy what you want.
http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm#oxygenfree -
Just get some good quality 12 or 14 AWG. I am using Belden that I get from BSW.
All anyone has to do to prove that high end AQ/Kimber/Pear whatever is follow the bouncing ball in a blind A/B/X. I haven't seen that happen as of yet.
A thread can be had with out the personal/ad-hominem attacks. I thought that crap was banned now per the new rules here? -
digitalvideo wrote: »People on here have said good things about Signal Cable and claimed they noticed an improvement. I'm interested and curious about SC now, will they make an improvement over my Bluejeans wires and have any of you done any comparisons?
Signal and BJC both have 30 day no hassle return policies. Enlist some one to help you A/B/X blind test them and come to your own conclusions. -
i think some people tend to forget the duty of speaker cable, all it is supposed to do is pass electricity through to the speaker without altering and resisting it, anything else is useless.
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JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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The moment I saw the OP name I knew this was a setup.
Glad to see it is not getting out of control except for the trolls.
George, I want a spool of that wire, may make for a better investment than wallstreet.Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
ABX tests are not a valid testing method concerning audio, period.i think some people tend to forget the duty of speaker cable, all it is supposed to do is pass electricity through to the speaker without altering and resisting it, anything else is useless.
Once again, you have absolutely no idea as to what you are talking about. Please refrain from providing misleading information.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
:rolleyes:
(to the person suggesting the 4672364237846274862734 dollar wire) -
^^^ another troll ^^^ Why do their names indicate they will add no value except to insight hate and discontent.Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
im no troll, i have posted alot of useful information, but the audiowiccans disagree......
your allowed to give your "opinion" (thats all it can be called anyways since you have no scientific basis for your claims) then why am i not allowed to give information based on facts? -
The moment I saw the OP name I knew this was a setup.
Glad to see it is not getting out of control except for the trolls.
George, I want a spool of that wire, may make for a better investment than wallstreet.
Well--after extensive reading on the subject-I am going to buy some ot this,,and swapping them into a rig--gonna use some relatively expensive RCA's too--so look for some IC's for sale in the FM if they turn out as I hope--
http://www.kosmic.us/oyaide-pa-02.html
with these
http://www.vampirewire.com/pc-79-21-c9xcb.aspx
I just built a digital cable with some of the neotech wire currently on e-bay--and yep--it's that good,,IIRC neotech and oyaide are relatives,,similar/same process--high quality stuffJC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut) -
Keep us updated. Looks like nice top tier stuff.Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
This discussion has been closed.