HK AVR 635 + Adcom 535...no sound!
Ace944gs
Posts: 110
Forgive the very basic question...
I recently picked up the Adcom, and am planning on using my HK AVR 635 as the pre to drive some 2 channel sound. I currently have 2 regular RCA cables (L/R audio cables that were laying around) as interconnects between the HK and the Adcom. The Adcom is hooked up to the bookshelf speakers using regular 12 gauge speaker wire, but there is no sound. FWIW, the HK is also sending a signal to the separate sub through the preamp outputs, which is working.
I'm not seeing the green (yellow?) Left/Right LED indicator lights on the Adcom when everything is powered on, which leads me to believe the problem lies somewhere between the HK and the Adcom.
Obviously, something could be broken in either the HK or Adcom, but wanted to ask some basic questions...Is there a setting on the HK I need to change that I wasn't aware of in order to use the pre-outs? Did I hook everything up correctly?
Sorry for the basic questions- first time using a separate amp...
I recently picked up the Adcom, and am planning on using my HK AVR 635 as the pre to drive some 2 channel sound. I currently have 2 regular RCA cables (L/R audio cables that were laying around) as interconnects between the HK and the Adcom. The Adcom is hooked up to the bookshelf speakers using regular 12 gauge speaker wire, but there is no sound. FWIW, the HK is also sending a signal to the separate sub through the preamp outputs, which is working.
I'm not seeing the green (yellow?) Left/Right LED indicator lights on the Adcom when everything is powered on, which leads me to believe the problem lies somewhere between the HK and the Adcom.
Obviously, something could be broken in either the HK or Adcom, but wanted to ask some basic questions...Is there a setting on the HK I need to change that I wasn't aware of in order to use the pre-outs? Did I hook everything up correctly?
Sorry for the basic questions- first time using a separate amp...
Post edited by Ace944gs on
Comments
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NO there is nothing to do in the HK. Just make sure your cables are plugged in the correct pre-out, make sure your HK is on as well as your amp. You are saying your amp light is not on? might be an issue with the amp.
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Thanks Willow- the amp powers up (when I hit the switch on the left side, the red LED power indictor light turns on); but when both units are powered on (and I'm hearing the sub), the green speaker indicator lights on the right side of the front of the amp are not lighting up.
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Thanks Willow- the amp powers up (when I hit the switch on the left side, the red LED power indictor light turns on); but when both units are powered on (and I'm hearing the sub), the green speaker indicator lights on the right side of the front of the amp are not lighting up.
Are you using bare ends or banana or spade ends? you might be setting it off as some of the frayed ends mught be touching somewhere else -
Though I'm not sure those are even supposed to turn on?
FYI I also checked the L/R preouts on the HK- they're putting out sound. It's just not moving through the amp to my speakers.
I'll play around with the connections some more; see what is going on. -
I'm using bananas. They seem a bad fit though...they don't sit in as deep as they did on my HK.
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Just unhook it all and start over making sure you are using the correct pre-out. Your amp is a 2ch?
Make sure they are all off when connecting it. can you try just one side at a time to see? ie leave your left speaker hook up to your receiver and your right ot the amp? -
http://www.adcom.com/data/manuals/gfa535manual.pdf
Check out page 3 of the adcom manual, indicating how to hook up the speaker wire. This seems confusing to me. What does it mean to have the connectors in an upright position? -
I'm using bananas. They seem a bad fit though...they don't sit in as deep as they did on my HK.
They don't always. you could try bare ends to see if this is the reason -
Just tried that- the gauge wire I have doesn't actually fit in the Adcom's twist connections (too big); so will have to find some new speaker wire.
I've tried 2 different RCAs as well- so I'm thinking its not the RCAs either, but I'll keep playing around with it. -
Could it be the speakers? I am testing out the amp using some old Polk M10s. They're 8 ohm, 20-100 watt recommended speakers so I didn't think anything of it...
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Could it be the speakers? I am testing out the amp using some old Polk M10s. They're 8 ohm, 20-100 watt recommended speakers so I didn't think anything of it...
Verify the speakers work by hooking them directly to your HK.
Also check to see what jacks you are using from the HK to go to the Adcom - yes a silly question - but just make sure you are not connected to the multichannel "inputs" on the AVR.
If it isn't the HK or speakers because these all work when hooked to each other, and you've tried multiple sets of RCA cables to the Adcom - sure seems like there is something wrong with the Adcom.
H9: If you don't trust what you are hearing, then maybe you need to be less invested in a hobby which all the pleasure comes from listening to music. -
You need to use bare wire for the 535.There is no connection until the connector is turned and locked to the right.Hope this helps.If you can't hear a difference, don't waste your money.
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Still no luck!
decal- thanks- what exactly do you mean 'locked' to the right? I inserted the bare wire into the connector, and turned it to the right as far as possible. There isn't any locking action that is obvious- is it just a matter of turning until it can't turn anymore? Or am I missing something embarrassingly obvious?
Erik,
Speakers work fine when hooked directly to HK, and I've hooked the RCAs to the Front left and Front right pre-amp outputs (bottom left of the picture you inserted).
I'm still wary of the RCA cables- I've used a few different ones, but they're all the old Red/White/Yellow audio cables. I know most RCAs are 75 ohm these days, but have it connected using the yellows of 2 separate RCAs since I'm pretty sure those have always been 75 ohm. Any thoughts there?
Thanks everyone! -
Still no luck!
decal- thanks- what exactly do you mean 'locked' to the right? I inserted the bare wire into the connector, and turned it to the right as far as possible. There isn't any locking action that is obvious- is it just a matter of turning until it can't turn anymore? Or am I missing something embarrassingly obvious?
Erik,
Speakers work fine when hooked directly to HK, and I've hooked the RCAs to the Front left and Front right pre-amp outputs (bottom left of the picture you inserted).
I'm still wary of the RCA cables- I've used a few different ones, but they're all the old Red/White/Yellow audio cables. I know most RCAs are 75 ohm these days, but have it connected using the yellows of 2 separate RCAs since I'm pretty sure those have always been 75 ohm. Any thoughts there?
Thanks everyone!
Well, if you have any friends with HT equipment, I'd suggest more 'shot gun troubleshooting':
* If your HK will work with a friend's amp using your RCA cables - then its your adcom inputs.
* If your HK won't work with a friend's amp then something is bad with your HK pre-outs.
* If your Adcom works with a friends AVR pre outs, then something is wrong with your HK.
* If your Adcom doesn't work with a friends AVR, then something is wrong with your Adcom.
H9: If you don't trust what you are hearing, then maybe you need to be less invested in a hobby which all the pleasure comes from listening to music. -
This MAY sound dumb, but:
1)-Go to Adcom's website and read the owners manual(if you don't have one, or haven't already).
2)-Make sure there isn't some weird setting in the HK that is off that should be on.
3)-Take it to a friends house and hook it up there.
Sounds to me like it could have bad outputs from being improperly hooked up before it came to you. Did you hear it before hand?
NOTE-Seems like Eric Tracy covered most of this already.Onkyo TX-SR705 AVR
Onkyo M-501-Given to my father.
Onkyo DX-C730 CD Changer
Onkyo DV-BD507 Blu Ray player
Onkyo CP-1036A turntable with Grado, Audio Technique, and Azden cartridges(GOT CARTRIDGE??)
Polk Monitor 12's with RDO's and XO's
Polk CS300 Center
Polk Monitor Series 4 rears
EBAY is like cocaine. At first you only look, next thing you know, your house is full of crap you have no idea why you own.:eek: -
Those old red and white cables won't work. Go to Radio Shack and pick up a pair of cheap interconnects, if that doesn't work,the problem lies with the amp itself.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
Thank you all- tonyb I've searched this forum and the internet...couldn't find a definitive answer around what type of ICs I need.
I've read the owners manual; read the HK manual re: settings; don't have any friends who have pre-outs (anyone in Chapel Hill want to help me test?)
I'll check out the Shack for some cheap ICs to verify tomorrow. Thanks! -
I'm using bananas. They seem a bad fit though...they don't sit in as deep as they did on my HK.
You can't use anything but bare wire on the Adcom 535 (original version) if you have the series II version then you can use banana plugs.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Thank you all- tonyb I've searched this forum and the internet...couldn't find a definitive answer around what type of ICs I need.
I've read the owners manual; read the HK manual re: settings; don't have any friends who have pre-outs (anyone in Chapel Hill want to help me test?)
I'll check out the Shack for some cheap ICs to verify tomorrow. Thanks!
I am assuming you don't mean Chapel Hill IN Ottawa right! if you do, I'm 2 mins away. Let me check my box of cables I might have some decent ones I could ship to you for free. They might be Monster or Acoustic Research ones, but much better than what you have. I'll check tonight when I get home. -
http://www.adcom.com/data/manuals/gfa535manual.pdf
Check out page 3 of the adcom manual, indicating how to hook up the speaker wire. This seems confusing to me. What does it mean to have the connectors in an upright position?
I read it to mean that the knob will have some sort of "mark", "flange" or "bump" on it. And that it should bein the 12 oclock position. THEN you insert the wire, then you turn the knob 1/4 turn. If its not in the correct starting position, it may not be able to lock. Another funny adcom quirk.
Please keep posting and post the resolution. I get bummed out when I get peri pherally involved in trouble shooting thread, (the mystery of it) and the askee just fades away. maybe others do too.
And the manual also says to use shielded coaxial cables as ic's. The "limpee" rca red/white jobs are not that. The yellow video ones should be but they should be noticeable thicker the the limpee rca's. Some call the shielded types digital audio cables now...but they are identical to video cables.
I bought short length digital audio coaxial shielded cables for my ic's with canare tips. Since they are stiff, they "self-dress" and don't droop all over each other.
shielded coaxial cables are 75 ohm...I've taken a meter to a bunch of rca limpee cables and they tend tobe all over the place 40ish and 50 ohms..
No matter what, unless they are damaged somehow they should work somewhat. I can't say for certain. I don't know adcom.
Good luck -
Willow- too bad! I'm in Chapel Hill, NC, not in the great white north! Thanks for looking through the cable bin for me
Virtualdean- I promise to keep posting. I'm crossing fingers it is the ICs. I'll have more time this evening to trouble shoot/test. Interesting about the ohm difference for the low-end RCAs....I don't have a working meter right now, otherwise I would have posted my cables. I'm off to RadioShack this afternoon for a new one; will update with my findings.
Another question- with a meter, I should be able to test my HK pre-amp outputs, right? Anyone know what I should be seeing if they're working?
FWIW, this is the MKII, so bananas do/should work. Mine are just a loose-ish fit, which may have to do more with the bananas than anything else. -
How long do you need them to be?
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Willow- the amp/HK are sitting on consecutive shelves of the rack- so 1.5 to 2 feet works. I can hide any more back there too....
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Ok- got the new meter- IC's I was using are 30-45 ohm!
I tested all my cables; none are 75 ohm except my digital coax's (can't use those...right?) -
Wrong. Your manual says to use shielded coaxial cables for IC's, digital coax's are that....if those digital coax's have rca ends or anything that will mate with an rca end, go for it.Ok- got the new meter- IC's I was using are 30-45 ohm!
I tested all my cables; none are 75 ohm except my digital coax's (can't use those...right?)
good luck -
virtualdean wrote: »Wrong. Your manual says to use shielded coaxial cables for IC's, digital coax's are that....if those digital coax's have rca ends or anything that will mate with an rca end, go for it.
good luck
This is true. I'm sorry I didn't haver a chance to look. Had a nephews Bday party to go to. But I will look tonight. I know I have a pair or two just not sure which ones. -
Use the cables you just bought. 75 ohm cables are for digital signals. In your situation you are dealing with analog signals not digital. This isn't that hard, I don't know why it's been such an issue. Christ, even the el cheapo .29c cables that come with gear will work to make sure you're not having issues with the gear."Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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Virtualdean- actually did try to the digital coaxs; they did not work. I was hoping they weren't working since they're digital coaxs.
Willow- no worries- thanks!
heiney9- obviously, I'm trying everything- I want the amp to work. I hooked things up originally using the cheap l/r audio cables, and nothing worked, so now i'm trying to pin-point the problem. Hypothesis testing...you know? I'd rather eliminate all the other non-amp pieces of the hook-up before blaming the amp. Trust me, if I knew why it was an issue, I wouldn't be asking the group. -
Any sparks coming out from anywhere while you were playing with the cables?_________________________________________________
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Virtualdean- actually did try to the digital coaxs; they did not work. I was hoping they weren't working since they're digital coaxs.
Willow- no worries- thanks!
heiney9- obviously, I'm trying everything- I want the amp to work. I hooked things up originally using the cheap l/r audio cables, and nothing worked, so now i'm trying to pin-point the problem. Hypothesis testing...you know? I'd rather eliminate all the other non-amp pieces of the hook-up before blaming the amp. Trust me, if I knew why it was an issue, I wouldn't be asking the group.
I say process of elimination:
try the cables to a cd player and your HK to your speakers only. If it works it's not your cables nor your speakers.
Did you say you have a dig coax cable? try that one with one of the channels and you "cheapo" on the other. If dig coax works then try it on the other channel,t his way you'll know if it's on of the channels. Is there a fuse in that amp? maybe it's blown?
