trying to learn
specd_out
Posts: 505
I am trying to find more info on subs. I have tried many different search terms and I cant seem to find what I want. In simple terms I want to be able to look at a subwoofers specs chart and be able to understand each rating and how it applies to real world usage. any links to posts or other sites would be appreciated.
HT Rig Samsung 64F8500 |Pioneer Elite BDP-52FD|Pioneer Elite VSX-32| Two Carver TFM-15cb Bridged for mains|Polk Audio RTiA5 Cherry|Polk Audio CsiA6 Cherry|Polk Audio T-15 Heights|Polk Audio FXia6 Surround|DIY 8cuft Dayton Ultimax 15" powered with a Crown XLS1000
2Channel Rig Polk Audio LSi9 Cherry| Carver C-1BillD Mod|Carver M1.0t MkII Opt2|Pro-ject RM 1.3|SpeedBox S|AQ King Cobras|AQ Rocket88|
ISF Level 2 Certified Calibrator
2Channel Rig Polk Audio LSi9 Cherry| Carver C-1BillD Mod|Carver M1.0t MkII Opt2|Pro-ject RM 1.3|SpeedBox S|AQ King Cobras|AQ Rocket88|
ISF Level 2 Certified Calibrator
Post edited by specd_out on
Comments
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Ain't no such critter. Specs can only give you an idea at best how a sub will sound in your room. It also depends on what you want out of the sub. But in general, when it comes to subs, bigger is better. This applies to the driver, watts, everything. There's also a lot of different types of subs, from infinite baffle, to sealed, to ported and passive radiators. All have different characteristics. I can give some generalities though.
IB subs are typically the flattest and go the lowest in terms of frequency response, but require very careful placement as they can't easily be moved. You may also have to do some structural reinforcement of your house. Literally.
Sealed have the next flattest response, but require large boxes to go deep.
Ported are the most efficient in terms of decibels per watt, but the bass rolls off very quickly below the tuning frequency.
Ported subs are kind of a cross between a sealed and a ported sub.
If you can tell us what you want to use your sub for along with your existing equipment and your room specs, someone may be able to make some recommendations.
Me? I'm going with http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=692 in an IB configuration. I'm starting with 2 but building my baffle large enough to accommodate 4, in case 2 don't do it. But then, I'm trying to pressurize around 10,000 cubic feet, which is a much larger space than most people need to fill. Danged open floor plans....
Anyway, it really depends on what you're going to do with it. For HT, especially blu-ray, you need the lowest frequency response you can get. Many blu-rays sound tracks contain frequencies below 16 Hz. For music, the lowest note on a piano is about 27.5 Hz, and kick drums are about 60 Hz with the bass guitar going to about 40 Hz. But depending on your room, it may be easy to get to those numbers, or you may have multiple null points that result in horrible bass response.
So that's a short answer to why just looking at specs for any speaker will give you only a vaugue idea of how it will sound in your room.Turntable: Empire 208
Arm: Rega 300
Cart: Shelter 501 III
Phono Pre: Aural Thrills
Digital: Pioneer DV-79ai
Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
Amp: Conrad Johnson Evolution 2000
Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified -
Interesting. I already understood that the room you have your setup in makes a huge difference in how a unit will sound. My questions where like what does this mean 23 db +/-3db I hear people post that, and i see it in specs. my thing is I hate trying to start to learn from posts on a forum. reading peoples opinions on things can be a great help if you already have a basic knowledge of the subject. I dont. as much as i hate to say it I purchased my new dsw600 sub based off the fact that everyone said its a decent sub and the price i got it at couldnt be beat. I think I know what makes it a good sub but I am not sure. I know its better then a PSW but not as good as a SVS or a HSU but I dont know why. I dont have many posts mainly because I am able to find the answers I am looking for by doing tons of searching. And in all my searching I havent found the info about subs that i want. I hate that I bought something I know little about and it was based solely on peoples opinions of it.
My setup is a humble RtiA5, csi3, cheap polk book self speakers for surrounds, a yamaha vx463 A/v, and a dsw pro 600 in the mail. My room 12' w 10' tapering to a 12' celing 25' L so roughly a 3300 cubic ft roomHT Rig Samsung 64F8500 |Pioneer Elite BDP-52FD|Pioneer Elite VSX-32| Two Carver TFM-15cb Bridged for mains|Polk Audio RTiA5 Cherry|Polk Audio CsiA6 Cherry|Polk Audio T-15 Heights|Polk Audio FXia6 Surround|DIY 8cuft Dayton Ultimax 15" powered with a Crown XLS1000
2Channel Rig Polk Audio LSi9 Cherry| Carver C-1BillD Mod|Carver M1.0t MkII Opt2|Pro-ject RM 1.3|SpeedBox S|AQ King Cobras|AQ Rocket88|
ISF Level 2 Certified Calibrator -
2 Channel -
Martin Logan Spire, 2 JL Audio F112 subs
McIntosh C1000 Controller with Tube pre amp, 2 MC501 amplifiers, MD1K Transport & DAC, MR-88 Tuner
WireWorld Eclipse 6.0 speaker wire and jumpers, Eclipse 5^2 Squared Balanced IC's. Silver Eclipse PCs (5)
Symposium Rollerblocks 2+ (16)Black Diamond Racing Mk 3 pits (8) -
Thanks man. Thats definitely a start to what I am looking forHT Rig Samsung 64F8500 |Pioneer Elite BDP-52FD|Pioneer Elite VSX-32| Two Carver TFM-15cb Bridged for mains|Polk Audio RTiA5 Cherry|Polk Audio CsiA6 Cherry|Polk Audio T-15 Heights|Polk Audio FXia6 Surround|DIY 8cuft Dayton Ultimax 15" powered with a Crown XLS1000
2Channel Rig Polk Audio LSi9 Cherry| Carver C-1BillD Mod|Carver M1.0t MkII Opt2|Pro-ject RM 1.3|SpeedBox S|AQ King Cobras|AQ Rocket88|
ISF Level 2 Certified Calibrator -
I think you mean 23 Hz +/- 3db? 23 db +/- 3 db doesn't make any sense in any context.Turntable: Empire 208
Arm: Rega 300
Cart: Shelter 501 III
Phono Pre: Aural Thrills
Digital: Pioneer DV-79ai
Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
Amp: Conrad Johnson Evolution 2000
Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified -
I think you mean 23 Hz +/- 3db? 23 db +/- 3 db doesn't make any sense in any context.
That is kind of weird. If they say "23hz to 120hz +/- 3db" it would make sense.
Or if they said "23hz is the -3db point in response" Ok.