need new roof, how much is it going to cost me?

madmax

It looked nothing like that, it looked normal to me. I had handfulls of little tiny black beads at the gutters.

Jstas

madmax wrote: »

It looked nothing like that, it looked normal to me. I had handfulls of little tiny black beads at the gutters.

I said it was extreme. If you let the roof go, the next heavy rainstorm after hail damage would show that.

This is what initial hail damage looks like:



See all those little black spots? That's where the hail has dented the shingle and caused the edges of the pock mark to separate the aggregate from the tared paper backing. Water gets in under those edges, saturates the now unprotected paper backing and causes the compromised section to lift off the paper and get washed down the roof. This is pretty bad hail damage, if left unchecked, it will look like the picture I originally posted.


Here is a wider shot of heavier hail damage:

Retro152

kcoc321 wrote: »

Al,
To do an accurate estimate you need to know:
Actual square footage of roof area (denoted in 'squares' which is = to 100sf)
Are you doing a full tear-off?
What is the roof slope in x:12 ie x feet rise in 12 feet run.
Are you going to install ice dams? I would.
Is your roof ventilation up to snuff? This is a good time to bring it to requirement. I really like continuous ridge venting. Poor ventilation will 'age' your roof faster than normal, especially in a area of extreme climates, like Spokane is.
Also, this is a good time to add roof vents for bath fans that need ventilation.

Now should be a good time, as labor is cheap. And you 'should' be able to get some insurance for "wind damage".

Let me know the answers to the above and I can look it up in my estimating program

Great advice right here. Go with the Architectural Shingles. Less labor intensive than the 3 tabs. Better shingle, hardly any layout for your roofing crew, better look, and a good gang will "Machine Gun" it on in no time. Perfect scenario, barring any unforseen problems. Good luck.



Pat.

greyford1979

Replaced my roof last year after ice damage ruined it. Insurance paid for it, but ended up doing it myself with the help of my brother-in-law and one of his friends(both ex roofers:D) Holy hell were they fast with the nail guns:eek: Materials cost me little over $4000, but saved around half doing it myself. Very steep roof and I'm scared to death of heights, came close to soiling myself on the peak near the edge once lol. But I'm good to go for 30 years now(keeping fingers crossed) and the house itself is less than 20 years old. now i just have to finish building that deck outback so the fiance stops nagging me:rolleyes:

TECHNOKID

kcoc321 wrote: »

Al,
To do an accurate estimate you need to know:
Actual square footage of roof area (denoted in 'squares' which is = to 100sf)
Are you doing a full tear-off?
What is the roof slope in x:12 ie x feet rise in 12 feet run.
Are you going to install ice dams? I would.
Is your roof ventilation up to snuff? This is a good time to bring it to requirement. I really like continuous ridge venting. Poor ventilation will 'age' your roof faster than normal, especially in a area of extreme climates, like Spokane is.
Also, this is a good time to add roof vents for bath fans that need ventilation.

Now should be a good time, as labor is cheap. And you 'should' be able to get some insurance for "wind damage".

Let me know the answers to the above and I can look it up in my estimating program

+1 on this and add some extra just in case there are surprises like replacing a few sheets of plywood! I think your guestimate isn't far from the thruth!

danger boy

got one estimate in for complete new roof. this includes removing 2 layers of shingles.. I seriously only see one layer myself.. but the roofer guy said he sees 2. Maybe once they get started, they'll only find one and adjust the estimate.

so for a total of $4,565 which includes tax.

1. remove old shingles
2. install ice shields at eves and felt paper
3. install drip metal at eves
4. install new RV0 38 roof vents
5. install 30 yr laminate shingles - Cambridge 30 AR (algae resistant)
6. using 1 1/4" nails
7. 10 yr workmanship warranty
8. clean up all job related materials and dispose

if plywood is needed to fix any areas of roof.. that would run $ 1.25 per sq ft
* $15.00 per sq ft after 2 layers ?

so that's the first estimate so far. pretty close to what i was thinking. I will get more bids of course. but this one doesn't see to bad.

So what is the deal with architectural shingles?

cambir

Had our roof done about 7-8 years ago on our 1300 sq ft home. Complete tear-off of 3 layers, replace half the sheets of plywood and install new 40-yr comp. It was around $8K

And your insurance agent gave you great advice...
The ins co would only pay to repair the damaged portion and most companies (not all) would raise your rates (some companies significantly).

Good luck Al!

danger boy

how many vents should a roof have? mine only has three right now.. my neighbor has 8 for a similar size house/roof.

are these good enough? what kind of vent would be an upgrade or better solution for Northwest weather?

kcoc321

danger boy wrote: »

how many vents should a roof have? mine only has three right now.. my neighbor has 8 for a similar size house/roof.

are these good enough? what kind of vent would be an upgrade or better solution for Northwest weather?

While I prefer Ridge vent, the basic calculation is the area of the attic divided by 150. That result (in square inches) is then applied half in eave vents and half in roof vents, Gable vents (if you have them) or Ridge Vents. (area / si venting of each vents)

UBC vent code info:
http://www.savenrg.com/code.htm

So a 1,300sf Attic area = 187200si / 300 = 624 si total / 2 = 312 si of Roof Jacks AND Eave vents. Depending on which Vent they use, the Owens VS61 is = 61si each so = 5.11 so use 6. I usually install them on the back side of the ridge, so you don't see them from the street.

Here is a online calculator:
http://roofing.owenscorning.com/homeowner/accessories/ventilation/determinerequirements.aspx

If you only have Roof Jacks then you use 150 as the divider.
Remember, This is a minimum.

Ridge Vent: (it provides 20si per lf, so in above calc, you would need at least 15.2lf !!)
http://www.cor-a-vent.com/v600.cfm
I usually have it installed starting a couple of feet back from the end of each ridge.

Architectural Shingles are thicker to provide a deep shadow line, thus looking more textured. Look better in my opinion.

Does the estimate list how many 'squares' they are estimating?
Also would ask them to include at least 4 bundles, as finding matching shingles 15years from now may be a problem.

Other than that, the estimates look good as far as a good list to start with. Make sure any other estimates include all the same items.

I like these Jacks