Mod TV speakers?

HiPerf360
HiPerf360 Posts: 436
edited January 2006 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
I have been thinking of replacing the speakers in my Mitsubishi big screen for some time...

I think it uses a 5.25-6.5 inch woofer and a 1.5-2.0 inch paper tweeter.

I think i remember the manual said something like 40-50 watts? per channel.

I would like to add a cheap powered sub to this as well.

Just take the speaker level outputs from the board and rout them to a terminal block on the back of the set and use the speaker level inputs of the sub and send the higher frequencies back to a decent set of component speakers in the TV.

This way i wont have to use the stereo as often to just watch TV.

any suggestions on a cheap powered sub that sounds decent as i would also like to add on in my master bedroom to compliment the 6.5 in-wall speakers.

TIA,

Jonathon
Post edited by HiPerf360 on
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Comments

  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,601
    edited December 2005
    ...Not worth it... voids warranty...

    yada yada

    Dont do it.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited December 2005
    Yeah, forget it. Instead, find a way to hook up 2.1 powered computer speakers.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
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  • HiPerf360
    HiPerf360 Posts: 436
    edited December 2005
    Dont really care about warranty, as it has already expired.

    I dont want to add additional speakers to the room, i have plenty of room in the front pannel of the TV.
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  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited January 2006
    OK, then try it. Keep in mind the replacement speakers should be as close to the specs of the original speakers as possible. If not, it'll sound terrible unless you manipulate the crossover or perhaps bypass the crossover altogether and use full range speakers (???). Not sure, but feel free to experiment and report your results.

    I'm interested because I posed the same question on this forum a couple of weeks ago and the best answer was to use computer speakers. The main problem was a lack of a remote for the volume.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
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  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,899
    edited January 2006
    I doubt very seriously if your TV puts out 40-50 wpc and I doubt that replacing the speakers will improve anything significantly. Get a cheap reciever and a coupla satellites and put them on top of the TV. I got a great little satellite/sub system on Ubid years ago. 3 satellites and a powered sub for about $120. If you can find the Advent B2R system it makes a nice little upgrade for a TV that you don't want to make into a full-blown HT. Sounds very nice for music too.
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
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  • HiPerf360
    HiPerf360 Posts: 436
    edited January 2006
    Correct, my TV has 10 watts per channel, but you are missing the point, i have thousands of dollars worth of components in a rack right next to the tv but i dont want to be putting hours on them just to watch jay leno...

    even 10 watts per channel is plenty to drive an aftermarket component system with a powered sub at normal TV viewing levels.

    This is going to take about an hour of research to figure out how the tv speakers are wired as they have different speaker leads going to the bass and tweeter drivers so i will have to trace the wires back to the sound board and see how they are crossed over.

    I will just pull the signal before the cross over and send it through a powered sub first then back to the new components.

    Now the hard part, where do i find 8ohm components in the 150.00 dollar range?
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  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 13,077
    edited January 2006
    Oy, sounds like a lot of work for what will STILL be crappy sound.

    Turn on the hifi rig. G'head, splurge. Live a little.

    BDT
    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
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  • wingnut4772
    wingnut4772 Posts: 7,519
    edited January 2006
    I agree...splurge . Life is short.
    Sharp Elite 70
    Anthem D2V 3D
    Parasound 5250
    Parasound HCA 1000 A
    Parasound HCA 1000
    Oppo BDP 95
    Von Schweikert VR4 Jr R/L Fronts
    Von Schweikert LCR 4 Center
    Totem Mask Surrounds X4
    Hsu ULS-15 Quad Drive Subwoofers
    Sony PS3
    Squeezebox Touch

    Polk Atrium 7s on the patio just to keep my foot in the door.
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  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited January 2006
    Hiperf -- How do you plan on handling the volume control issue?
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
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  • PolkThug
    PolkThug Posts: 7,532
    edited January 2006
    Grab a pair of full range speakers from Madisound and try it out!
    Never Forget
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  • HiPerf360
    HiPerf360 Posts: 436
    edited January 2006
    Early B. wrote:
    Hiperf -- How do you plan on handling the volume control issue?

    With the tv volume control, still going to use the amp in the TV.

    BTW, the tv is a mitsubishi 65" diamond series, it dosnt sound bad now, just want a little more.
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  • Skynut
    Skynut Posts: 2,967
    edited January 2006
    Just do it.
    Find the speakers you want to try and do it.
    Come back and tell us wether or not you think it is worth it.
    I know sometimes I want better sound without turning on the whole rig just to watch South Park or whatever.
    Skynut
    SOPA® Founder
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    www.ShadetreesMachineShop.com
    Thanks for looking
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  • dragon1952
    dragon1952 Posts: 4,899
    edited January 2006
    Geez...electronics last for freakin' years. I've got a marantz receiver from 19-freakin'-73 :rolleyes: Believe me....slightly better speakers aren't going to help. There are too many other factors and limitations.
    2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
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  • HiPerf360
    HiPerf360 Posts: 436
    edited January 2006
    Skynut wrote:
    Just do it.
    Find the speakers you want to try and do it.
    Come back and tell us wether or not you think it is worth it.
    I know sometimes I want better sound without turning on the whole rig just to watch South Park or whatever.


    I am, just have to find the time to do it, probably when i pick up my new speakers as i have to move a lot of stuff to hook them up.

    The TV is quite easy to work on as you can remove the entire top half to expose all of the electronics. (I had to repair the TV when the warranty company couldn't seem to find the problem)
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