Larger speakers in my Jeep
Options
![audiobliss](https://wc.vanillicon.com/cf6b02e59b3d73486dc6d9b50cd66dd7_100.png)
audiobliss
Posts: 12,518
In another thread I believe it was Cody who mentioned that he had heard some guy made a mount of wood for his Jeep so he could accomodate a larger mid. Does anybody have any information on this or any other way I could do some 'easy' 'beginner' mods? I think I'm gonna go with some Polk 6.5" components; still unsure. I'm just totally re-thinking my plan.
It'd be great if I could do something to accomodate a 6.75" so I could get the MM6s at $180 or w/e it was!
Thanks!!
It'd be great if I could do something to accomodate a 6.75" so I could get the MM6s at $180 or w/e it was!
Thanks!!
In UseGeorge Grand wrote: »
PS3, Yamaha CDR-HD1300, Plex, Amazon Fire TV Gen 2
Pioneer Elite VSX-52, Parasound HCA-1000A
Klipsch RF-82ii, RC-62ii, RS-42ii, RW-10d
Epson 8700UB
In Storage
[Home Audio]
Rotel RCD-02, Yamaha KX-W900U, Sony ST-S500ES, Denon DP-7F
Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII, Parasound P/HP-850, ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
Klipsch RF-35, RB-51ii
[Car Audio]
Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520
Post edited by audiobliss on
Comments
-
the way i'd do it uses the fact that a speaker narrows towards the back. you would mount the speaker on an MDF ring, then mount that mdf ring on a wider one, then mount that wider one to the hole.
[IMG]http://www.andrew.cmu.edu/~dhuston/photos/audio/MDF mount.JPG[/IMG] .
The black bars are screws/bolts, and the horizontal line is the door metal.It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon
"Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs -
And the rectangle connected to the driver is the magnet sticking out the side of my door?
I guess I'll just have to rip the panels off my doors and see what it's like in there. How dificult is this? ....I think I'm gald my windows/mirrors/locks are manual....George Grand wrote: »
PS3, Yamaha CDR-HD1300, Plex, Amazon Fire TV Gen 2
Pioneer Elite VSX-52, Parasound HCA-1000A
Klipsch RF-82ii, RC-62ii, RS-42ii, RW-10d
Epson 8700UB
In Storage
[Home Audio]
Rotel RCD-02, Yamaha KX-W900U, Sony ST-S500ES, Denon DP-7F
Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII, Parasound P/HP-850, ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
Klipsch RF-35, RB-51ii
[Car Audio]
Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520 -
I've got an idea. I was thinking about how hard it would be to make the area deeper so as to accomodate the larger speakers (anybody know how deep the MM6s are?), with getting thick wood cheap, cutting it, painting it, then getting it to stick to the door and the panel to stick to the wood. Well, I'm thinking that I'd like to see the grill of the woofer (is it aluminum? I read somewhere that it is...); that means I could cut a hole in the door panel and let probably about 2" of the speaker come through. 1) I'd get to see the speaker & 2) I wouldn't have to make the area behind the panel so deep. Anybody understand what I'm saying?
Now, I don't know what I'm going to do with this car when I get another one, but I do want to keep it sellable, and of course I'm gonna wanna take these speakers out when I get rid of it!! So, I was thinking, could I get some door panels out of a Cherokee from a junkyard?
And, does my plan sound all right?
Also, the guy at the audio store said that they'd have to waterproof the area or something because there's a leak back there & the speakers would get wet. How would I fix that?
Thanks!!George Grand wrote: »
PS3, Yamaha CDR-HD1300, Plex, Amazon Fire TV Gen 2
Pioneer Elite VSX-52, Parasound HCA-1000A
Klipsch RF-82ii, RC-62ii, RS-42ii, RW-10d
Epson 8700UB
In Storage
[Home Audio]
Rotel RCD-02, Yamaha KX-W900U, Sony ST-S500ES, Denon DP-7F
Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII, Parasound P/HP-850, ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
Klipsch RF-35, RB-51ii
[Car Audio]
Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520 -
clarification: the horizontal black line is the metal skin of the door on the inside. further inside the car, or up on the diagram, is the door panel. further outside/down is the outer metal skin of the door. you'll see what i mean if you take off the door panel. the mm6 is pretty deep, so you could use this even if the hole's big enough, but you can't get the speaker all the way in (or can't put your windows all the way down with them in).
it does everything you want it to; and more - you can angle that top ring in order to aim the mid (up to maybe 10-15 degrees worth). you could simply stack more rings if you want to make it stick out from the door metal more (closer to the door panel, so you can snug it right up against the existing speaker hole, then just stick the grille on, or something like that.
for the waterproofing, there's a product known as a speaker baffle (misleading, but whatever). crutchfield sells em, they just go over the back of the speaker to protect it from water./It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon
"Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs -
Thanks a bunch, neo. I hadn't even thought about being able angle the woofer any; that's pretty cool! So, are you saying that I could cut a hole thorugh the first metal skin of the door? I hope I wouldn't have to do that. I'd say that only being able to put down my windows, say, half-way wouldn't be a problem. You think those cover things from Crutchfield would be adequate?
Another question: Would I want to use the existing speaker wire? If I buy the MM6s from CarDomain, I assume they're not going to come with all the adapters that Crutchfield includes with theirs. So, how would I work that out?
Thanks!!George Grand wrote: »
PS3, Yamaha CDR-HD1300, Plex, Amazon Fire TV Gen 2
Pioneer Elite VSX-52, Parasound HCA-1000A
Klipsch RF-82ii, RC-62ii, RS-42ii, RW-10d
Epson 8700UB
In Storage
[Home Audio]
Rotel RCD-02, Yamaha KX-W900U, Sony ST-S500ES, Denon DP-7F
Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII, Parasound P/HP-850, ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
Klipsch RF-35, RB-51ii
[Car Audio]
Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520 -
with mm6 you definately do not want to use the stock speaker wire... running it to the door isn't difficult, it just takes some arm contortion.
i'd assumed that your door already has a speaker cutout, from the stock speakers. if not, that would make mounting any speaker difficult, much less a very deep one like the mm6. take a look and make sure, i've never heard of a door not having a hole.
yes, the crutchfield things are adequate; i don't have any baffles on my mm6's, and i've never had a problem (my window seals are pretty good). you will, however, probably want your windows to go down all the way. if you get everything put in and the speaker basket is still in the way, you can always stick another spacer ring on there (assuming there's more space to move the speaker further inboard, before it hits the inner door panel).
if you haven't already, taking apart your door will make this much more clear.It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon
"Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs -
I see. There are currently speakers in the doors, so I'm assuming there are holes there. I'll think about those speaker baffels after a while; how would just some kind of plastic container with holes drilled in it work? I decided to go ahead and get an amp, too, so I'll definitely get some more speaker wire.
I plan on opening up a door in a few weeks (maybe this weekend) to see how it looks; I'm sure that will clarify things a bit.
Thanks!George Grand wrote: »
PS3, Yamaha CDR-HD1300, Plex, Amazon Fire TV Gen 2
Pioneer Elite VSX-52, Parasound HCA-1000A
Klipsch RF-82ii, RC-62ii, RS-42ii, RW-10d
Epson 8700UB
In Storage
[Home Audio]
Rotel RCD-02, Yamaha KX-W900U, Sony ST-S500ES, Denon DP-7F
Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII, Parasound P/HP-850, ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
Klipsch RF-35, RB-51ii
[Car Audio]
Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520 -
the MM6's come with 12 and 14 ga speaker wire in the box, if you don't want to foot the extra cash you would probably be fine with the wire polk supplies... the 14ga even has connectors for the tweets and it's what i use for mineMacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.
Josh: Damn skippy! -
Originally posted by Joelsbass
the MM6's come with 12 and 14 ga speaker wire in the box, if you don't want to foot the extra cash you would probably be fine with the wire polk supplies... the 14ga even has connectors for the tweets and it's what i use for mine
mine didntMusic is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it -
Originally posted by exalted512
?
mine didnt
that's cause they don't like you
course mine are about 1.5 years old... could have had a packaging change...MacLeod: I guess youre lucky Polk has such lax hiring standards.
Josh: Damn skippy! -
I see on Polk's site that the MM6 mid has a mounting depth of 3 1/16". Does this mean that's how deep the are from magnet to, umm, mounting ring or w/e? It seems to me that that is very shallow (well, shallower than I had expected). It shouldn't be hard at all to make a space deep enough for that in my doors, right?George Grand wrote: »
PS3, Yamaha CDR-HD1300, Plex, Amazon Fire TV Gen 2
Pioneer Elite VSX-52, Parasound HCA-1000A
Klipsch RF-82ii, RC-62ii, RS-42ii, RW-10d
Epson 8700UB
In Storage
[Home Audio]
Rotel RCD-02, Yamaha KX-W900U, Sony ST-S500ES, Denon DP-7F
Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII, Parasound P/HP-850, ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
Klipsch RF-35, RB-51ii
[Car Audio]
Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520 -
hello.......? lolGeorge Grand wrote: »
PS3, Yamaha CDR-HD1300, Plex, Amazon Fire TV Gen 2
Pioneer Elite VSX-52, Parasound HCA-1000A
Klipsch RF-82ii, RC-62ii, RS-42ii, RW-10d
Epson 8700UB
In Storage
[Home Audio]
Rotel RCD-02, Yamaha KX-W900U, Sony ST-S500ES, Denon DP-7F
Pro-Ject Phono Box MKII, Parasound P/HP-850, ASL Wave 20 monoblocks
Klipsch RF-35, RB-51ii
[Car Audio]
Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520 -
it is from the back of where its mounted(where the screw holes are) to the back of the magnet
you could fit it easily, problem being you wont be able to roll down your windows
-CodyMusic is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it -
well, if you can't roll your windows down all the way (you may, depending upon where the cutouts are, mine are fine)... you can just stick a spacer inIt's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon
"Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs