Monitor 5b issue- known good tweeter is silent. Might be crossover?

Question for the folks that are more knowledgeable than me: I hear from a lot of people swapping out the old capacitors for something new. For now, I'm satisfied with what I've got, and I don't want any more malfunctions. But, out of curiosity, how do you actually access those solder points? The back panel is attached to the crossover via some plastic pieces that I can't really envision removing without damaging.

Sweet, sounds easy enough. I will have to do some research on what capacitors to swap with and so on, as well as if that inductor should be replaced. Thanks!

I appreciate all the advice on cap swaps folks. I put in some solens the other day, as I simply want the thing to run, I'm not an uber audiophile by any means.

Unfortunately, I'm afraid that the dreaded tweeter silence has returned! I'm fairly use that this is unrelated to the capacitor change, given the crossover's history and the fact that the issue appears to have reemerged prior to the swap. Like last time, the woofer is still putting out sound, only the tweeter is dead. Earlier, simply fiddling with the fuse was enough to get it going again. Now, not so much. Does anyone have any suggestions for what to try? Here's what I've done:

1) All caps and resistors are replaced, solder points look good

2) Wires going from the fuse connections were resoldered to the board

3) All contacts were hit with deoxidizer

4) Tweeter is known good, swapped with the other speaker's tweeter to verify.

I really don't want to fiddle with the actual fuse apparatus unless I need to, as there is a crap load of glue that I'd need to work through before I can reach the bolts. That also makes me wonder if that is the issue, since it should be sealed in the goop.

I'll give the contacts a bit of a sanding, I think I might have found a potential culprit. The fuse itself doesn't appear to pass the continuity test (though that doesn't stop the other speaker from working just fine with it). Might be worth a shot to replace it, do you know what kind of fuses these things require? It looks like a 1a 250v slow blow?

Continuity is detected when no fuse is present ( just touching the contacts), as well as the fuse is in place.

I am touching the two sides of the holder when I check for continuity. I've convinced myself that it is unlikely to be the fuse itself. The fuse works in the other speaker, and the old tin foil fuse bypass trick didn't seem to do anything.

Hmm. So that implies a short somewhere around the fuse. I checked the entire board for continuity, as well as the components and it appears that there's a signal running the red coiled wire all the way down to the bottom.

I'm not sure how this kind of short could have happened, though, because the whole thing is covered in glue. Here's a picture:

I am putting the black side of the multimeter on the left end, and the right side on the right end. To be honest, I'm not sure how I'd test the holder like that without essentially touching the probes together.